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Next elements to deal with will be the bodyshell..
I may use the schematics on the box as a starting point.


That plus measurements of the different elements on one of the original bodies I have (2 of the Coors had their original body) should allow me to do something realist... I'm not sure to start right now, I may want to tear down the next car to be modeled (let state it, it is not going to be in this sub forum, and instead of one, maybe I should speak about 2 )

Before starting something else, I took two additional snapshots of the Coors chassis...

I've also printed tires for the Ninja...


I've printed rims also for the occasion with some white added to the red


And that's how this looks like


And on the car now... I really need to do the paint job, now (I'll need this car to be ready for a Vintage event mid may).






And for comparison with original cracked tires

With the DST changes last week, the days are getting slightly longer, and the weather starts to be good enough to consider paintjobs. I had a lot of those to tackle, and that start by the Ninja...









I'm really happy how this turns, as I had a small doubt when choosing the Dark Gun Metal for the bodyshell... Simple but classy, and as good as the original black, IMHO...

Had to add the driver figure, otherwise it would be missing, and a car running without a driver is not an option in my case...

I painted it last night, and added the finishing touch this morning... And it joined the car when ready






And I took few pictures with the Samurai as well...





I still need to add a RX and an ESC to the Ninja and it will be ready for runs in vintage events in May...

Until now, the Ninja was not in situation to run... It was missing electronics...

A Tamiya black Sport Tuned and an ESC arrived today...

Time to scan one motor isolator, to do something in Silhouette Studio and to plot it in a cardboard made from an Amazon enveloppe...


And here we have a part which is too often missing in the cars I got used...


RX, Motor and ESC quickly joined the Ninja with one of the part cut in the afternoon... I tried to keep the ESC in the overal theme of the car, just because...


I did a short run on the alley, just to set the trims and to check if the car was running fine... Another car ready for the vintage events of this year...

silvertriple wrote: ↑Sun Jan 15, 2023 8:30 am That was quick...

A revision of the length for the battery slot, a sketch on top of it...


Then a skecth to define the steering elements... And another one to define the way the battery door is sloting in...


And here we are, a Marui Ninja/Coors/Shogun chassis...

Hello there, I'd like to buy a new Ninja chassis or print one. Can I have a copy of your STL file?

PitcherRC wrote: ↑Wed May 17, 2023 7:58 pm

silvertriple wrote: ↑Sun Jan 15, 2023 8:30 am That was quick...

A revision of the length for the battery slot, a sketch on top of it...


Then a skecth to define the steering elements... And another one to define the way the battery door is sloting in...


And here we are, a Marui Ninja/Coors/Shogun chassis...

Hello there, I'd like to buy a new Ninja chassis or print one. Can I have a copy of your STL file?

At this stage, this chassis is untested, and I won't share or sell an untested STL files... You will have to wait I'm engaging next steps on this chassis, and this will be probably in a few months...

A short extract of the footage I took during my Ninja run...

That looks great! It also looks like a fun track.

Those tires are working great , how's the wear ?

Dadio wrote: ↑Tue Jun 13, 2023 1:30 am Those tires are working great , how's the wear ?

Like for the Samurai... no visible wear after 20 minutes run on the track (40 in total with the runs I made in Montluçon). I ran as well the Samurai, and it is the same. I believe it would wear more on a track with asphalt, but that would be perfectly normal... on pure off road, I believe they can last quite a good time...

silvertriple wrote: ↑Sun Sep 25, 2022 1:06 pm And while cleaning the transmission parts, noticed something :


That being said, it is not an issue, as this is out of the way the bevel gears mesh together...

That's funny, I found the exact same issue with the Shogun I built; I had to file off the webbing between the teeth left behind by the questionable casting.



https://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?t=44446

Also, the worst design flaw of the Shogun/Ninja is having the rear bumper--which is expected to take abuse--mount directly to the rear gearbox with these two thin, flimsy little mounting tabs. I had to find a way to fix and brace it after one side was broken off.

https://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?t=44446&start=24



Unfortunately not all of us can 3D print new chassis tubs when badly engineered bits break off.

Coelacanth wrote: ↑Wed Sep 06, 2023 3:51 pm Unfortunately not all of us can 3D print new chassis tubs when badly engineered bits break off.

On that The optima House is also getting us covered with his SHogun/Ninja enhanced gearbox... I'm not sure about the right tone to dye a greay or white MJF print, but there should be a way (Rit Dye works perfectly, the problem is to find the right tone...)

Agreed, even though I print my own parts I bought his samurai case STL file and had it professionally printed- turned out fantastic! You don't need a printer of your own these days, the ones you can hire are better than what we can afford at home anyway