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USPS stopped by with something I'd been waiting for.


Turns out it was a few things. Cadillac era body wing with hardware, new clutch cover, new antennae straw.


I was expecting the frosted clutch cover, got the earlier clear one instead, I overlooked that when purchasing. The frosted in the pic is my stock one, it has some cracks and was poorly cut out.


If anyone wants to trade an NOS frosted cover, for an NOS clear, please let me know.

I also have some white parts for RC10 that I don't need, and will never use, like (2) body posts, a servo mount, and an antennae mount.

I use the Birchwood gun bluing on steel. The brass black might not work on steel. But using CLR with other blued steel does tend to share the bluing.

Frankentruck wrote: ↑Wed Nov 22, 2023 4:44 pm I use the Birchwood gun bluing on steel. The brass black might not work on steel. But using CLR with other blued steel does tend to share the bluing.

Thanks for the correction, I'd rather not do it wrong.

This entire re-blue kit is cheaper than a bag of ASC# 6262's, perhaps I'll go with this kit, and see if I can polish out the pitting on the old turnbuckles, then re-blue.
https://www.amazon.com/Birchwood-Casey-Perma-Liquid-Kit-13801/dp/B07GS11253


Ordered, thanks!

I'd get a bit of practice with blueing one something you don't care about , there's kind of an art to getting it right that might not come first time , small parts are easier though but you need to do each layer in one go or it gets blotchy .

Dadio wrote: ↑Wed Nov 22, 2023 5:25 pm I'd get a bit of practice with blueing one something you don't care about , there's kind of an art to getting it right that might not come first time , small parts are easier though but you need to do each layer in one go or it gets blotchy .

I will have (7) old turnbuckles to practice on, (5) of which have brand new replacements on the way. I'd pick the best (2) of the #6262's out of the (4), and practice on the worst ones, first.

With Brass Black, the best results come from dipping the part, drying it, polishing it, and then repeating that process as many times as it takes, to get the right finish.

You say with blueing, it must all be done in one layer, or in the first go?

Thanks @Dadio !

GreenBar0n wrote: ↑Wed Nov 22, 2023 5:42 pm

Dadio wrote: ↑Wed Nov 22, 2023 5:25 pm I'd get a bit of practice with blueing one something you don't care about , there's kind of an art to getting it right that might not come first time , small parts are easier though but you need to do each layer in one go or it gets blotchy .

I will have (7) old turnbuckles to practice on, (5) of which have brand new replacements on the way. I'd pick the best (2) of the #6262's out of the (4), and practice on the worst ones, first.

With Brass Black, the best results come from dipping the part, drying it, polishing it, and then repeating that process as many times as it takes, to get the right finish.

You say with blueing, it must all be done in one layer, or in the first go?

Thanks @Dadio !

The reaction is fast usually and if your doing something with thread then dipping may leave bubbles in the thread , it's why the cotton swabs are worth trying so you can work it into details , as I said with steel you can build up layers until you get the finish you want , don't be tempted to just leave it in longer as you get a sooty deposit instead . As I said you should play about with it until you get the technique .
I used to make WW2 era replica Airsoft rifles and even found for barrels I could spin them in the lath and do the whole process from cleaning to final oiling with the cotton swabs without stopping the lath .
Do use gloves and clean up any spills , I had a bottle spill in my workshop(may have been aluminium black) and the vapour rusted up a whole load of steel stock I had in my wrack overnight , hate to think what it might do to electronics or your car collection .

Dadio wrote: ↑Thu Nov 23, 2023 3:09 am The reaction is fast usually and if your doing something with thread then dipping may leave bubbles in the thread , it's why the cotton swabs are worth trying so you can work it into details , as I said with steel you can build up layers until you get the finish you want , don't be tempted to just leave it in longer as you get a sooty deposit instead . As I said you should play about with it until you get the technique .
I used to make WW2 era replica Airsoft rifles and even found for barrels I could spin them in the lath and do the whole process from cleaning to final oiling with the cotton swabs without stopping the lath .
Do use gloves and clean up any spills , I had a bottle spill in my workshop(may have been aluminium black) and the vapour rusted up a whole load of steel stock I had in my wrack overnight , hate to think what it might do to electronics or your car collection .

I'll be careful with the blue chemicals, thanks for the warning. The kit I'm getting comes with a remover that's said to remove blue and rust, so I'll test this all out shortly, looking forward to it. Much thanks, @Dadio !

Marantz Awesome stuff.

I still have my old Carver amp I bought new and a Carver pre-amp I picked up from a local collector. With my hearing, I could probably do just as well with something from Walmart but I like having old stuff that still works.

1911Colt wrote: ↑Thu Nov 23, 2023 11:56 am Marantz Awesome stuff.

I still have my old Carver amp I bought new and a Carver pre-amp I picked up from a local collector. With my hearing, I could probably do just as well with something from Walmart but I like having old stuff that still works.

Carver components, nice! Love the vintage stereos. The early tube driven gear is out of my price range, but wish someone would make a tube stereo kit, the likes of early Marantz, or McIntosh.

Cool screen name too, @1911Colt , I have a Dan Wesson PM-7, one of the very few options they let us have here in CA.


Here's something interesting, the new Cadillac era body wing I bought, comes with the white plastic wing mounting hardware as it should, but I have the very late RC10 Stealth CE, with all black plastics. I found this, in my RC10gt kit:


Those are the exact right ones for my RC10 late black plastics, but did the RC10gt have this wing mounting hardware, for the little fin in the back of the GT? Trying to figure out if this black plastic wing mount kit was ever used on the GT?

Nope the trucks never came with wing mounts.

GoMachV wrote: ↑Thu Nov 23, 2023 2:47 pm Nope the trucks never came with wing mounts.

Thanks for confirmation @GoMachV ! Was a huge fan of Speed Racer, who doesn't like Spritle and Chim-Chim? You're exactly correct. I just looked all through my original RC10gt manual, and didn't see those mounts anywhere listed. Not sure why they were in the GT kit, but glad they were!

Got a pile of parts the last couple of days.


But I noticed the ASC#6262 bag contains two different turnbuckles, and yet it is still factory sealed?


The top TB has a line on it, the bottom is like the rest of the RC10 TB's I have.


Did I get a shady deal here, did the seller add a newer TB in with the old one?

Regarding my earlier post about the clutch cover that is clear, being vintage or NOS, it's not, it's a newly manufactured part. I re-read that auction, and it was listed as New, not Vintage. I'm learning some hard lessons about the vintage RC10 parts market so far .


I double checked my wing, and it is vintage as far as I can tell, as stated by that same seller in the separate auction.

Regarding the 6262 turnbuckles, I know the notch in the wrench area of the TB, is to designate the thread direction for being able to easily tell which way to turn the TB to get the desired length, but does anyone know when that started, the notch in the TB?

Second time I got turnbuckles that were different from the auction picture on eBay, shiny silver 6263's this time.


Wonder if these ball cups are somehow wrong also, about to find out.


Got the blue kit today, going to try to fix the stock tb's.

Will let the blue cure overnight, as the directions said, then see about adding another layer.

Thanks @Frankentruck !