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cautrell05 wrote:Did it list anywhere how much toe they were?

Nope but I'll know in about 5-10 days
However
When looking closely at the photos, they might be 1,5 degrees..... Well I REALLY hope they are

EDIT:
I emailed Him and he replied that they are 0 degree but he's planning 1,5 and 3 degree mounts soon

Make sure you post how these parts turn out. I have two RC10s with rear arm mounts that aren't holding screws very well anymore. They aren't easy to find on ebay these days either!

ck33 wrote:Make sure you post how these parts turn out. I have two RC10s with rear arm mounts that aren't holding screws very well anymore. They aren't easy to find on ebay these days either!

Will do Mate

ck33 wrote:Make sure you post how these parts turn out. I have two RC10s with rear arm mounts that aren't holding screws very well anymore. They aren't easy to find on ebay these days either!

You might be able to use a nut on top of the mount. I use one on the screws near the motor.

As do I, on my 10T

a touch of crazy glue will also fill in the threads, though it might be a little difficult to remove later on. If you never take them off except when then break, then it should work well for you.

I got the alloy mounts from Pargu Store today

Nicely packed with 4 stainless screws

Compared to stock 1,5 plastic mount

Machining and black anno is of good quality


0,8mm gap....acceptable


But here's were I had trouble, I spend almost an hour test fitting and comparing measurements
The center to center hole placement if OFF by 0,5mm ....0.5 MILLIMETRE !!!!!

And the threaded holes need to be countersunk in order to make the screw tighten down properly

Just got a reply from Pargu Store

He's sending me a new mount on Monday, No charge

That is true customer support


-Morten

Thanks for the follow-up post and pictures. Looks like you could use a couple shims over the hinge pin (0.8 mm gap)

Are they a 0 toe, 0 anti squat or is that just how they look in the pic?

Nick

That is true customer support

Ya he's pretty good. I got the wrong color stuff once and he sent me the right stuff right away no charge.

Looks like anti squat is built in to me.

They have the same squat as standard

One last thing I noticed was that the hinge pin hole is 3,4mm and not 1/8" (3,17mm)
so the hinge pin is a bit wobbly
One solution would be to drill and tap for a set screw, got the idea from my TC3 hub

Morten

snoopmaxx please dont take this the wrong way but after reading all your problems with this arm mount id say its junk.. im glad you bought them and did a review, thank you.. even if it was $5 id be pist that i have to work on a new bolt on part that was made to fit the rc10..

This question has nothing to do with Pargu's parts, but aluminum rear arm mounts in general, particularily when used on runners: what happens in a violent crash...what's going to fail first? With nylon mounts, the mount will likely fail first (the screws will rip out of the threads or the mounts will split). With aluminum ones, the chassis will fail; the screws will rip through the side of the chassis. Stainless steel screws make this even more likely.

At first, It was only to judge machine quality and precision for you guys

I had hoped to use this mount on a runner, but I'll use it on a shelfer instead, I 'd rather have a white nylon 6-6 mount like the 10T mount I have on my runner, but with only two mounting holes....like the ones on my Traxxas TRX-3 #2798 with -1° degree and #1934 Caster Wedge 1.5 & 3 Degree


The machine quality of this alloy mount from Pargu is very high but there are a few bugs with precision, as I explained


-Morten