RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

Your shock oil looks on the heavy side, what pistons are you using? Changing the rear tires will probably help, square fuzzies and loose/loamy arent a good mix. Some other really good loose track tires are Proline Calibers, or even the Bowties you see in my pictures.

I would try #2 pistons all around and 30 front, 25 rear. Make sure you have enough droop, but the car rides "level" when ready to run.

Bumping this since there was a lot of good advice to read through. I'm going back to the track tonight with my WOIN build, which has a stealth 2.25 tranny and brushless setup. Last week I ran it with an 8.5T (no $hit, it was quick) but tonight I'm trying a fixed timing Speedpassion V3 17.5T motor. I also switched gearing, largely based on what I had available, not any calculations. A stab in the dark really, I'm going to try a 28T pinion and 72T spur. They have gearing for sale at the track so I can pick up some other options.

The track is indoor, off road carpet, pretty small layout with a one decent sized straight, but still not more than 50 feet I'd say. I prefer enough power to squirt out of turns but still have medium straightline speed to be respectable.

you can go up in pinion, a bunch.

I would get in the 30-32 range for pinion. Especially for a small track, you dont need a flywheel (like I run)

JK Racing wrote:I would get in the 30-32 range for pinion. Especially for a small track, you dont need a flywheel (like I run)

Thanks guys, I went to a 28T and it was a sweetheart around the track, so easy to drive and had great speed.

I was planning on running it in the stock buggy class but at the tail end of practice when I pulled it off, I saw something strange with the back end. The bottom of the Kyosho shock had unscrewed itself and spilled its guts all over the bulkhead, suspension arm, and trans case area! I didn't have time to fix it so I ended up running the new B4.2 I got, which also let me down due to screws backing out. Arggh!

I need advice from all the gurus here. There is an indoor carpet offroad track that has just opened up here and I want to start running my CE there. I'll be running a 27t brushed and lipo in the blinky 17.5 class. Spec tires are Schumacher yellow mini pins rear and stagger ribs on the front. I don't even know where to begin so any help with a starting point would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!

Hawg, I would probably start stock 81/18 and work up. The spec tire choice is hilarious!

Flip, I don't ever recall hearing about Associated shocks unscrewing

hawgfanman wrote:I need advice from all the gurus here. There is an indoor carpet offroad track that has just opened up here and I want to start running my CE there. I'll be running a 27t brushed and lipo in the blinky 17.5 class. Spec tires are Schumacher yellow mini pins rear and stagger ribs on the front. I don't even know where to begin so any help with a starting point would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!

That's not a bad tire combo for carpet at all! Most of the time the CE (standard arms and standard rims, not WOIN) setups are very similar to a B4.whatever- except you need to slow the suspension speeds down a little (since the 10 has shorter arms and camberlinks), which normally means a slight bump in oil weight. Given the slower steering response (in low speed corners) of the stagger ribs you probably will need a set of blue springs in the front, 37.5-40 w with #2 pistons and silver rear springs with 32-35w #2-#1. Lots of things can change the setup, if its hook and loop carpet (cheap commercial carpet) it has a higher nap, or ozite which is very low nap. 27t lipo is pretty quick! Somewhere between 16-21 depending on the track, and the type of jumps.

Thanks Reggie. The track is ozite and I'm really excited about getting to run it. I appreciate the help with a baseline setup!

Reg, I was actually referring to tire availability. I thought Schumacher closed up shop. The track must have a truckload of tires

I had a pair of their on road tires that fit the 2 or 2.2" rims. They were awesome but I can't find them anywhere. Funny, Schumacher had a big warehouse right here in my backyard back when.

knucklebuster wrote:Reg, I was actually referring to tire availability. I thought Schumacher closed up shop. The track must have a truckload of tires

I had a pair of their on road tires that fit the 2 or 2.2" rims. They were awesome but I can't find them anywhere. Funny, Schumacher had a big warehouse right here in my backyard back when.

I thought you were just a dBoots driver!

Question, all I'm finding is 0* rear blocks in my parts bins. Can I add a spacer or will it suffice to run the 0* blocks? Apparently this track is a dirt/clay mixture and the track doesn't stay tacky. Trying to put something together for a vintage race.

i ran my ce in a vintage race this weekend. stock rear blocks. the car was glued.

setup:

front
-1 camber
gt wide axles
b4 wheels (losi pink taper pins)
35wt #1's brown springs
1 degree toe out
ride height 25mm

rear
klien arms
rpm gt hubs
b44 cvd's
custom works .125" spacers
-1 camber
30wt #1's green springs
ride height 23mm
double dee's
b4 wheels
(the only reason i used klien arms was because all i had were b44 cvd's, so i had to use a OIN rear end, worked great)

turnigy 4000mah
hw 60amp xerun
lrp 17.5
geared 81/30

i was the only thing holding the car back, i was faster with it then my b4. lol

almost took it down. i've never had 3 degree blocks or 25 degree castor blocks so i have no idea what i'm missing.

Johnboy72 wrote:Question, all I'm finding is 0* rear blocks in my parts bins. Can I add a spacer or will it suffice to run the 0* blocks? Apparently this track is a dirt/clay mixture and the track doesn't stay tacky. Trying to put something together for a vintage race.

The stock 1.5's will work, the rear end is much less predictable though and you end up being "rear steer" as the rear rotates and you wait for it to stop rotating before getting on the throttle. I'm sure some of that is driver induced too, I like a get to get off the corner early and with force, and that doesn't happen for me with 1.5's. 0* inboard toe would be a total waste of time, you'll 360 every corner...or be peddling so much you'll be run over imho. I can shoot you some 1.5's with those rims if you only have the 0*-
25* is just a better balance everywhere, 30* is wicked on entry but gives up mid to exit, 20* is a dog in, then vicious off and likes to grip too much on exit. 25* is balanced throughout (on a grippy track with bars) some of that might be subjective too-