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because it has the ability to work with sensored motors, which those brands are. Not sure on the reedy, but either way, sensored or not, it would control them.

I'm geared 22/76 on my 6 gear with jconcepts classic tires. It isn't like bicycle gearing because electric motors lose torque with rpm. Bigger pinions basically give more performance all around, but make the motor /esc hotter. I'd start with a 20 tooth.

jwscab wrote:because it has the ability to work with sensored motors, which those brands are. Not sure on the reedy, but either way, sensored or not, it would control them.

I figured that, so thought it was weird to mention 3 specific brands only. Why list any? Why not just say "compatible with sensored and sensorless motors"?

Thanks Jason for the info about gears and teeth.

I'm still having a heck of a time figuring out servos. I could easily go to my local hobby shop and buy one for $50-$100, but when I see stuff like this, which seems to be very fast with good torque for less than $10 bucks, it makes me wonder.

http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__6608__D_MG16_Digital_Metal_Gear_2_9kg_08sec_18_8g.html

They mention flying in the description, which I've noticed in a lot of them, so does that make it incompatible/wrong for 1/10 car steering? How? If it has metal gears, is fast and is strong, isn't that all I'm looking for?

Maybe that one isn't strong enough. But this one is way stronger, a bit faster (really fast) and super cheap (not even my focus. I just don't get seeing similar speed and torque servos for $10 bucks or $100) Still mostly talks about flying though. I don't get it...

http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__23920__Corona_DS_319MG_Digital_Metal_Gear_Servo_4kg_34g_0_06s.html

that is a micro servo, and doesn't have much torque. suitable for flying due to size and weight and relative strength required for flaps and such.

you will want a servo with more torque. I'm not a good authority on servos, so I'd defer you to guys that are on top of this stuff

actually, digging around tower hobbies, this one looks excellent for the price. don't know how reliable or if it delivers to specs. but for 21 bucks, I'm tempted to order one to try it out.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=TACM0240

jasond wrote:I'm geared 22/76 on my 6 gear with jconcepts classic tires. It isn't like bicycle gearing because electric motors lose torque with rpm. Bigger pinions basically give more performance all around, but make the motor /esc hotter. I'd start with a 20 tooth.

I believe this is a typo. You meant to say "Electric motors DON'T lose torque with rpm"?
I don't know about brushed, but brushless motors seem to just make more power and get hotter as you gear them up.

Thanks everyone, I appreciate all the help. So there really isn't more to servos other than ensuring a minimum torque spec and speed capability....and maybe being digital and having metal gears, is that right?

One more question. Batteries. What do A-Spec, G2, 2S2P mean?

GodSpeed wrote:Thanks everyone, I appreciate all the help. So there really isn't more to servos other than ensuring a minimum torque spec and speed capability....and maybe being digital and having metal gears, is that right?

One more question. Batteries. What do A-Spec, G2, 2S2P mean?

I suggest getting LiPos from one of the following sources:
http://smc-racing.net/
http://www.spcracingbatteries.com/
http://viciousteknology.com/

All of those sources are US based, and have prices as good or better than the Gens Ace, Turnigy, Zippy, etc. packs that are so widely recommended on this forum.

2s2p means four cells total, two in series and two parallel.

I think, for most uses, the best value for your money is a hardcase 2s1p of around 5000mah, like this one:
http://viciousteknology.com/lithiumpower2s.html

Or this one:
http://spcracingbatteries.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=59&product_id=57

Thank you.

Is it best to stay away from 2S2P?

http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__17268__Turnigy_nano_tech_5600mah_2S2P_50_100C_Hardcase_Lipo_Pack_ROAR_APPROVED_.html

And I noticed it looks like some have removable connectors and some are hardwired?

http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__38498__Turnigy_5000mAh_2S_7_4V_60C_Hardcase_Pack.html

I have the rear suspension together and I thought I'd post a few comments in case in the future there are others in a similar situation to myself.....rebuilding a Classic that they know nothing about! haha

You'll notice that the shock bodies are built from the bottom, not from the inside like the ReRe's are. I bought these two shock rebuild kits (x2 for the Traxxas actually, so that I'd get x4 'C' clips and larger nylon washers) based on the advice received earlier on in this thread.



From the 6440 Associated kit I used the small nylon washer, the red o-rings, and the big nylon spacer.

From the 2362 Traxxas kit I used the big nylon washers and the 'C' clips (*neither found in the Associated kit).

I also used the black cap cups from the Traxxas kit instead of the o-rings from the Associated kit after first trying the o-rings and experiencing air/oil leakage. I even reused the big nylon cap washers from the Original car which aren't even included anymore in the ReRe. With the black cups and the nylon washers, I have no leakage and perfectly adjusted shocks.

I find this suspension VERY heavy. I'll have to see what it's like with electronics, battery and motor installed, but I'd be surprised if this is a good spring weight and setup. You'll see that I put the upper spring collar down 0.25" as the original instructions indicate. Interesting that the ReRe instructions are pretty much the exact opposite. I guess I'm not surprised. I have a feeling I'll be raising the collars all the way to the top at a minimum, if not replacing the springs entirely.

Hareware is installed to Original specs as far as order of nuts and washers and direction of nylon piece in cap. I found this made the shocks a little bit more vertical (fore/aft) vs. the ReRe instructions which have the nylon piece in the cap facing rearward which kind of bends the shock more than I thought was a good idea. There's also a washer on the bottom screw which is not mentioned in the ReRe instructions.

Like I said earlier, the stock springs are way too stiff. You'll want softer springs if you care about handling at all.

85Edinger wrote:Like I said earlier, the stock springs are way too stiff. You'll want softer springs if you care about handling at all.

Ya I don't doubt you one bit after setting this up.

Any recommendations front and rear?

You should move your shock all the way to the outer hole on the suspension arm.

mikea96 wrote:You should move your shock all the way to the outer hole on the suspension arm.

Okay. Why? Original and ReRe instructions say to use this one.

They handle better without the shocks standing so straight up and down and you can even drill a new hole on the tower that is slightly more inboard