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jwscab wrote:Hey Rod,

I would loosen all the screws for the top plate, in the standoffs, and then install the rest of the hardware loosely as well, then snug it all up. You might find that it's all you need to get the alignment you are looking for.

Did this many times.

Jake has a fix for the front, just elongate front top deck holes .5mm.

Rod, elongate the bulkhead holes in the chassis, not the top deck. This will relieve that pressure you are seeing. It should not take much, .5mm - 1mm. You will see your problem disappear.

Oh ok thanks Jake! What about the rear top plate holes though?

Mostly just mock fitted everything, I will make a few changes as parts or information comes along. Yes I know they are not the right tires and wheels but it's what I have and I will change them out when I find correct parts.
I will add a hand written label to the motor later. Mike Reedy kept a log of each team drivers motor, and after each run, it was tuned back to spec.

Very nice Rod!

slotcarrod wrote:Oh ok thanks Jake! What about the rear top plate holes though?

I have not seen any problems in the rear so I am guessing it was just a small change in the one top deck during machining. Rod I am not quite sure what you are referencing, I apologize. If you can give me a better idea of what you are trying to point out I can address it for sure.

The car looks great BTW. Looking forward to seeing the runner come together.

Jake

Seabass wrote:

slotcarrod wrote:Oh ok thanks Jake! What about the rear top plate holes though?

I have not seen any problems in the rear so I am guessing it was just a small change in the one top deck during machining. Rod I am not quite sure what you are referencing, I apologize. If you can give me a better idea of what you are trying to point out I can address it for sure.

The car looks great BTW. Looking forward to seeing the runner come together.

Jake

I feel the back of the top deck needs elongating about 1mm and this will also move the rear holes closer to the rear tower. The original holes were off a tiny bit, and I had to drill holes into rear bulkhead at a slight angle or there would not have been enough material on the bulkhead to hold a screw tightly.

These measurements are critical to removing any bump steer on the front turnbuckles. Measure from centre to center of the ball cup.
Bellcrank link = 38.5mm
Steering link = 72.8mm
Camber link = 64.1mm
Bump steer spacers = 3x0.8mm Or 2 AE aluminium washers under ball stud.

Sounds like you were able to get the bump steer under control. Thanks for the measurements Rod.

Jake

slotcarrod wrote:These measurements are critical to removing any bump steer on the front turnbuckles. Measure from centre to center of the ball cup.
Bellcrank link = 38.5mm
Steering link = 72.8mm
Camber link = 64.1mm
Bump steer spacers = 3x0.8mm Or 2 AE aluminium washers under ball stud.

I think I'll just watch you build mine

I finally ordered my shapeways parts, going to wait til I get paid at the end of the month before I make the big purchase... I'll have everything sent to you

MOOOOOOVE OVER paint will be coming soon

Body looks good Anthony! No problem building your car but it's easy and fun. Don't let a few measurements (given by Niki) scare you!

I will take these cars down to the Reedy Race in January. The runner I may race or at least run at IIRC or 702 in Vagas on the way down, the Moo will get Cliff's autograph! I hope!

Here's your led Rod. I hope it does the car justice.

Sexy cow!!!!