RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

How to shorten the T2 chassis was explained by scr8p as follows

“it's super simple to shorten the t2 tub to A, B, and C tub length. the nose plate, buggy (old style) or truck, has 2 sets of mounting points, so either one can be used to do it. simply attach the nose plate to the t2 tub using the front 3 holes (for the shortest wheelbase). you can now use the 3 mounting points towards the back of the nose plate as a drill template, and the holes will be exactly where you need them.”

<Front>
・Front side of T2 chassis was cut off by 9mm
・Two servo mount holes were added
・Front bumper from Shapeways (rapid_rc)
・Re-re World’s front shock tower
・0.71 Teflon shocks with AE big bore springs
・#1 piston, #32.5 oil and yellow big bore spring, outside hole on the arm and inside on the tower at this moment since, in the video, there is no big jump but are many corners with a different radius.
・Shock tower and suspension mounts are tightened with hex nuts
・Re-re World’s steering bellcrank (glow in the dark color)
・RC10 30deg caster block
・Stock inline steering block for RC10 (not extended one for RC10GT) with B3 front wheel
・Stock ballstud with 2mm spacer on the steering block
・Add 14g weight on the nose plate

<Middle>
・Low profile steering servo
・Short lipo behind the steering servo
・B44 battery post
・Add a lead plate under the lipo battery behind the steering servo (5g)
・RC10 battery cup attached to the chassis by double sided tape
・ESC is moved forward as much as possible
・Radio receiver is placed on the opposite side of the ESC with 35g weight, which depends on weights of ESC and steering servo

<Rear>
・Modified stock T2 shock tower where wing mount holes were added
・1.39 Teflon shocks (for T3) with AE big bore springs
・#30 oil and gray spring, outside hole on the arm and the second hole from outside on the tower
・5 shock spacer inside the shock cylinder and shock ends from re-re World’s car to limit a rear droop
・RC10T body mount on the rear tower
・T2 rear arm mounts (3 degree toe in, black and thick one)
・Add a 1mm spacer between the shock rod end and rear arm
・B4 RR hub carriers (ASC9584), 0-degree toe in with axle spacer crush tube
・B4 top shaft with V2 slipper, and RPM B4 gear cover
・B44 rear CVA
・B4 blue rear axle wheel spacer and SC10 rear hex adapter to use hex wheels

Another video
https://youtu.be/BKBG7rQjPj8

<Comparison with RC10 SWB>
・B1.5 ver.2 has the same wheelbase as RC10 with the short wheelbase position on rear arm mounts (about 263mm). ・B1.5 ver.2 uses 0.71 shock cylinder for front and 1.39 for rear. The rear shock is mounted on the higher position. ・RC10 (17.5t motor car) uses B6 shocks for front and rear with the taller front shock tower and shorter rear tower (front tower was made by Fibre Lyte and rear tower was made by Carbon Works). ・For B1.5 ver.2, the rear shock tower is placed in front of the rear bulkhead. Thus, the rear shocks are moved forward compared to RC10. I expect more front roll for RC10 and more rear roll for B1.5 ver.2 from different shock heights.
・When I run both cars, I feel that B1.5 is heavier than RC10.
・Now I use the V1 blue big bore spring for the front and center hole on the front shock tower for B1.5 ver.2.

<RC10 B1.5 ver.2 (SWB) update>
• The car was dull in small corners so I have reduced the rear droop and made the rear camber link shorter.
• I changed the rear shock cylinder size from 1.39 to 1.32.
• I removed 10g weight in front of the receiver and reduce a weight below the battery (8g to 3 g).
• I added the front wing between the nose tube and nose plate. I need to rotate a front wing for modern cars 90 degrees and cut it. • The car was still dull so it would work best with the shortest rear camber link length. • Video: https://youtu.be/aGzdnFeF5Vw

<RC10 SWB (short wheel base, stock 17.5t) >

This car is based on RC10 ver.3 in page 4 (please see details there) and is compared with B1.5 SWB above.

・RC10 wheels for front (short axle) and rear (with ASC9911 CVA)
・Standard battery direction
・Tekin ESC (lightweight)
・Taller front shock tower with B6 big bore
・Shorter rear shock tower with B6 big bore (LCG)
・I add some weights and I use rubber shaft boots (diff hub side) because ASC9911 and diff hub are hard to find

・Shock settings
Front (V2 23mm big bore), V1 blue spring, center hole on the tower and outer hole on the arm, ASC#32.5 oil, #1.6 piston
Rear (V2 27.5mm big bore), V1 blue spring, second hole from the outside on the tower and outer hole on the arm, ASC#30 oil, #1.6 piston
・Video: https://youtu.be/YWxy5ydGD7w

<RC10 B1.5 ver.2 (SWB) Final>

I changed the weight distribution of this car because it did not turn well due to understeer during acceleration.
The rear camber link was shortened. Finally I am very happy with this car. Shock setting
front 0.71 / ASC32.5 / #1 piston / V1 big bore spring blue / arm outside hole / tower center
rear 1.32 / ASC30.0 / #1 piston / V1 big bore spring blue / arm outside hole / tower second from outside

<RC10B3>

I try to keep the car as stock as possible. Previous owner converted many screws to metric. I add many weights. The servo, battery and ECS are inline.
<Front>

・Big bore shock spring (Associated V1 gray or blue) and B6.1 spring cup
・#32.5 oil and #2 piston. Shock position is inner hole on the arm and center on the tower
・30deg caster block
・Outer camber hole on the tower <Rear>
・B4 gear cover
・V2 slipper
・Shock bushing is flipped to move shocks smoothly
・3 deg anti squat and 3deg toe-in (rear arm mount ASC9267), no washer under the arm mount
・B4 rear hub carrier (ASC9730) with B4 CVA to use B4 pin tire or modern hex tire
・Big bore shock spring (Associated V1 gray or blue) and B6.1 spring cup
・#30 oil and #1 piston. Shock position is outer hole on the arm and center on the tower
・To keep a space between the upper camber link and shock spring, I use a short ball stud on the hub carrier and normal stud with a thin washer on the chassis. Inner holes on the hub and chassis are used.
・I added countersink holes on the motor plate and use nylon lock nuts to fix the motor plate on the gear box
・Wing wire is wrapped with a heat shrink tube
・Wheelbase is middle length (the hub is placed between spacers)

Great info bud much appreciated........................

Thanks!

Video
https://youtu.be/XAdKDP1zy0A


ASC V1 blue springs are used for front and rear. I use a thin short lipo battery.
Other than shock settings and tires, I tend to adjust a wheelbase and weights next to the servo.

<RC10 B3 Final>

I added the shaft boots. I changed to use the center hole on the hub and outer hole on the chassis.
The car becomes quicker with 1mm shorter upper camber link. To tighten the ball stud from the front side on the chassis, the nylon lock nuts (in red circles below) need to be flipped. Side view

<RC10Mid Ver.2>

I use RC10 arms for front and rear and add Kyosho RB7 motor (waterfall) brace with 17.5T motor. Please see pages 2 and 3 for Ver.1 and how to flip the transmission
<Front>
・Front bumper (Jg mfg?)
・B4 big bore front shock (23mm, with 3Racing spring adjuster and bottom cap)
・Extended front shock tower from Carbon works (3mm thick)
・ASC #32.5 shock oil and V1 gray spring, 1.6 piston
・Outer hole on the arm and center hole on the tower
・RC10 re-re worlds steering bellcrank (add one aluminum washer between the bellcrank and chassis)
・RC10 30deg caster block and stock inline steering block
・One washer and 2mm spacer on the steering block to reduce bump in <Middle>
・45g weight below the (thin shorty) battery and 10g below the pinion gear
・Kyosho RB7 motor brace (using existing holes on the chassis) [UM765 Center bulkhead]
・Motor cooler below the brace
・ESC and radio receiver behind the steering servo
・RC10 Transverse Shorty Pack Battery Cups from Shapeways (Conklin Performance Designs), attached with second and fifth holes <Rear>
・B4 aluminum hub carrier (0 degree toe in) with spacers and washers to make 250mm rear width
・The inner hole is used for the camber link
・Short length shock tower with wing mount screw holes from Carbon works (3mm thick) and Kyosho RB7 wing mount
・B4 big bore rear shock (31mm) with 3Racing spring adjuster and bottom cap (using 27.5mm shock body is another option)
・ASC #30 oil, V1 grey spring, 1.7 piston
・Outer hole on the arm and the second hole from the outside on the tower
・RC10 re-re arm mounts with long wheelbase hole position tighten with hex nuts (rear side) and flipped rear arms
・ YZ-2 rear CVA (60.5mm),
https://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=34582&start=45
・Adding 3mm spacer between the shock rod end and rear arm
・B4 top shaft with V2 slipper
・B4 gear cover, two hex nuts are added to the long screw from the gear box to fix the cover

I just read this whole thread and am AMAZED at the work you've put in on the multiple iterations of the RC10 buggies. From a design perspective, your most recent mid-motor is my favourite, but from a performance perspective (based on your videos) the B3 looks to be the easiest to drive fast. That being said, I feel like you can get close to it with your most recent mid-motor. Have you thought of trying to add a second idler gear to get the motor torque rotating in the same direction as a 3 gear rear motor...? I saw a guy mentioned adding a second one by opening up the transmission housing and mounting the second idler gear to the motor plate. I asked him for some photos but I haven't seen them yet. That might be a thought to allow you to keep the steering you have and settle the rear end without giving up corner speed.

Thank you very much for your comments. I moved the motor plate to the other side and flipped the top shaft so that a motor rotates in the same direction as a 3 gear rear motor. My explanation was not enough. Thanks again for your notice.

<Video> https://youtu.be/8rKHwBXrcXU

R16 wrote: ↑Sat Feb 06, 2021 3:57 pm Thank you very much for your comments. I moved the motor plate to the other side and flipped the top shaft so that a motor rotates in the same direction as a 3 gear rear motor. My explanation was not enough. Thanks again for your notice.

<Video> https://youtu.be/8rKHwBXrcXU

Oh, I see! I understand what you did. That car looks like it's doing really well. Is it fairly neutral or still a little twitchy?