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If it does go thru (which it probably will if u have no compression) and u cant find a new piston and sleeve (i found a nib piston/sleeve for my cz-2 in my nitro brute. Ut got lucky) you can always send your piston/sleeve to RayARacing and he can repinch it for about $20. That will get your compression back but u will have to re break in the engine.

I'm in Argentina. Unless a local tech can handle it, I will either have to buy a new engine or keep on a shelf for the memories. There's a NIB O.S. 15 CV-X blue/gold being sold locally for under US$200 which, I understand would be a direct drop-in. Not period correct, but would get the car going and it has a pull starter and a much better carburetor and needle assembly than the CZ-2 has.

Thats sounds like a good idea.
Heres a part # if it helps

Great. Thank you.

Little bummed, u can see yellow behind the "313" .
The white stripes are painted. Everything is on the inside of the body. Totally smooth outside. I can always buy another sheet and put new "313" over those on the outside but that does defeat the point

It is almost invisible, don't fret

I agree, it looks fine. I wouldn't have noticed if you hadn't mentioned it.
I also don't see any step in the paint from the decals being applied under the paint. The decal edge is completely invisible. Good job!!

Thanks for the nice comments on the body, dont feel as bad now......Huge update, just got done workn on both Assaults, serious change to the "basket case" sent driveability thru the roof. It comes with a 12t clutch bell, i didnt gps it, but it is geared pretty low, not real fast.
Ran another couple tanks, not leaning on the motor to hard but just wasnt quite satified with the speed, actually it was my brothers idea. I had a 15t bell layin around and decided to see if it would fit. Obviously the motor had to be moved right quite a bit meaning i had to make a new motor mount I made one and got the 15t all mounted up almost like factory. The road test proved positive, it drove unbelievable compared to the 12t. And no. It didnt cause any loss of power, u could go bigger if it would fit. I also added another head shim to the engine to drop compression a little to control the wheelies....and i will be running 30% nitro cause its what i have laying around for my 1/8 race buggies here in soon. The car still wheelies but much more controllable. I gps'd at 26mph not hangn the guts out and another quarter throttle to go. Car just drives like a dream, more than satified. I took it offroad some and it does great, plenty of power. Hard to see the 15t but heres a pic
I also got back to work putn the "mint" car back together somewhat

New shocks came in from Japan, they are going on the basket case...borrowed the shocks off the mint car temporarily until these arrived, pretty decent shocks, they get a bad rap sometimes but i dig em. Left (black screws) originals, (silver screws) Right are new

Not sure how familiar everyone is witg the built in glow igniter on this car, but it never worked, EVER! for anyone as far as i know, even corporate Kyosho. Well, i got it working. For some reason the amperage wouldn't carry thru the spring even tho it's grounded well. It carrys voltage fine. See the little blue wire in front of the red arrow, that's all it took. This is the "mint" car, finishing up the igniter on the basket case now

The bad rap is well-earned and deserved, believe me. I had a bunch of red shock parts in storage over the years for Optimas and nearly every single shock collar was cracked. They are extremely prone to cracking due to the design. I think of about a dozen, I had 2 that were re-usable. They're also finicky to rebuild; you have to get the oil level just right before inserting the piston and tightening it down, or it'll be too stiff or air will get in and it'll be spongy. That tiny little white plastic O-ring also is prone to cracking and when that goes, the oil will leak...another common problem with these original red shocks. Lastly, you need that weird-ass tool to tighten down the knurled end part. If you use pliers, you'll gouge and strip the knurls...as you will see on the majority of used shocks you'll acquire.

They look awesome, and with a bit of effort, will work decently, but are all but guaranteed to crack the collars and leak most of the oil out over the years.

On the flipside, I've disassembled decades-old, beaten & battered Kosho Gold shocks to find they still had all their oil and the oil was even clean.

coxbros1 wrote: ↑Mon Mar 11, 2019 6:28 pm New shocks came in from Japan, they are going on the basket case...borrowed the shocks off the mint car temporarily until these arrived, Resized_20190311_154539_4558.jpeg
Left (black screws) originals, (silver screws) Right are new
Resized_20190311_170018_9521.jpeg

I got the onboard glow starter installed on the basket case, it didn't have one on it at all when i got it. It worked perfect, fired right up! It was so cool i thought about putting one on all my vintage nitros.... but that might kill the nostalgia if these cars having them stock
Heres the other car (never ran) done except for an air filter/driver man/paint the letters on the tires. Linkages all adjusted to run but not doin it, might hurt the value. I put the body i painted over the weekend on it. I conned my brother into buying half if it so he can put it on display in his office in a case if he ever gets one, least i can get some coin back, these things aint cheap F!

do you have the metal ground plate installed? That’s the only reason I can think of that you need that jumper wire

Oh yeah, i got the factory ground strap on both cars. The voltage was fine at the glow plug...1.56v, just wouldnt carry any load thru the spring. I even tested it with a vintage Checkpoint motor, the motor ran half the speed after the spring than before it, thats when i knew what the issue was. I had good contacts everywhere....this is a 35yr old problem, i have never heard anyone say they could get it to work. I solved a 35yr old problem.....i want compensated by Kyosho, lol

Haha right on, I couldn’t find any pics showing the bottom to verify