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I have some other rear blocks but they are either unmarked or have been ground down. I have a ton of front castor blocks so I'll have to get started on trying to identify what is what. Too bad I don't have an angle finder but think I have something to figure it out. Do you measure from the bottom hinge pin or bottom of the chassis?

Protractors can work- so does visual... The 30's are perpendicular to the hinge pin, 25's are just barely forward..20's are distinctly forward.

The 1.5's are pretty square, with a sharp dig-bone recess. The 3* have extra meat at the rear, and the 0* are very soft edged with a shallow dog-bone recess.

Johnboy72 wrote:I have some other rear blocks but they are either unmarked or have been ground down. I have a ton of front castor blocks so I'll have to get started on trying to identify what is what. Too bad I don't have an angle finder but think I have something to figure it out. Do you measure from the bottom hinge pin or bottom of the chassis?

Get a long pin (like the rear arm mount pin) and slide it through the lower hole of a few caster blocks. Differences should become apparent. That one that you have the most of is likely 15 degrees . The actual angle will be 90 degrees, minus the angle the block makes with your pin, subtracted from 30 degrees. Sorry about the math. Otherwise, you can use Reg's visual method .

I've been searching on this site on and off all day. Feel like this should be something on Tech's tech forums. Like actually identifying parts. Another thing I was looking at was the World's Arms. I had noticed I have a couple of World's rear bulkheads and only knew that from a recent conversation elsewhere. That got me to thinking, I think I have some World's front towers...so what else do I have? Well on page one of the history page, looks like I have a couple pairs of World's rear arms....but sadly there is no good picture of what the world's front arms look like compared to the wide arms. But then again, I'm still searching and sure it's here somewhere. lol.

Anyone run a shorter front camber link, somewhere between the inner most hole and outer hole? I want to move it purely for ball cup clearance issues but don't want to poke "expirimental" holes if they'll upset the car balance too badly.

A poor handling car is worse than changing to small ball cups.

The shorter the camberlinks, the more camber gain under compression. Also, you'd be moving the inner location beyond the inner hinge pin...does some wacky things to roll rates and weird camber gain..then loss...then gain throughout the left/right weight transfer. What clearance issues are you having?

I was afraid of that, why they have camber holes so far out is beyond me. You'd think moving it 2mm or so in any direcion wouldn't have a detrimental impact but considering the arms aren't terribly long it's like moving it 5%+ of the arm length.

Every RC10 that I've tried using heavy duty ball cups on has had clearance issues between the inner roll center cups and bellcrank cups.

kaiser wrote: I've never had 3 degree blocks or 25 degree castor blocks so i have no idea what i'm missing.

I have some coming in the mail, I'll let you know what you're missing. Valkyrie had both in stock for a reasonable price.

85Edinger wrote:

kaiser wrote: I've never had 3 degree blocks or 25 degree castor blocks so i have no idea what i'm missing.

I have some coming in the mail, I'll let you know what you're missing. Valkyrie had both in stock for a reasonable price.

Full and aggressive steering, with predictable rear holding on corner entry and exit, increased corner-speed and decreased rear wash/deflection under heavy braking and rough conditions...that's all It really lets you maximize a set-up, and eliminates more of the "i'll deal with this...so I can have that" aspect of an RC10 handling package-

i put on 3 degree rear mounts and zero hubs today and WOW, different car, way more consistent, and i also switched to lwb on the rear blocks and the car is awesome! i personally run rips in green up front with 25 degree blocks, it took the twitchyness out.

Reggie, i run piston 2 35wt oil with black springs in the front, and 30 weight piston 2 with green springs in the rear, i am having a little trouble keeping the nose down and found that i really have to be-careful with my throttle, i can stab the break to bring the nose down if need but don't like that style. i tried silver springs, and also tried piston 1 with 30wt and green springs, but couldn't notice much, except i didn't like the silver springs. what is a general rule of thumb regarding shock oil? a few weeks back i was running 35wt in the rear with piston 2 and green but and it jumped level, but when the track got dry and rutty i felt to loose

also ride height is bones level, and slight v in the front (chassis level)

any suggestions?

What's the measured ride height front and rear, and what internal spacer? Also how are you hitting jump faces? Off/on throttle etc?

24mm ride height, one .030 washer in the front with .71 shocks, 35wt piston 2 and black springs, and rear 2x.030 spacers with 30wt piston 2 and green springs 1.32 bodies with 1.02 shafts. it is really nose high if i accelerate off the face, i try approach the section half to 3/4 throttle, and punch it as i hit the transition. the let off and that keeps it sorta level.

So the 3 degree rear mount with 0 degree hub sounds pretty appealing, has anyone tried the 0 degree mount with 3 degree hub? How would you describe the handling?

I've been running with 25 degree caster blocks in the front for a few weeks now, awesome! I also got 3 degree rear arm mounts from the same seller, I'll install them once I find/buy 0 degree hubs.
This was on my short arm with wide front arms, a drilled rear bulkhead, it's basically a CE with .56 front shocks.
I have a Team Car coming in the mail, though.
I'm planning to convert my ex- short arm back to a short arm, put the 25 degree blocks and 3 degree mounts on the Team Car (along with the other good parts of my setup) and tune from there.

Would anyone have a problem with me making a thread like this one, but for short arm/ 6 gear cars? I'm turning my goldpan back into a short arm to run Classic class, and I'm going to need setup help. I can't be the only one, especially after the Classic re-release.