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Hmmm... I will get it out tomorrow and check. Not sure.

Orange wrote:Hmmm... I will get it out tomorrow and check. Not sure.

Any news report?

Oops...

I have messed with it over and over trying to get it to bind. It doesn't bind 2 ballcups come very close to hitting each other, but I doubt under racing circumstances the angle they are at would ever have issues.

Mine has B4 steering blocks on it though. Did you change yours or are you still using the B2/B3 type with B4 Castors?

I'm still running the factory RC10 in-lines... I'm going to mirror your set up for the front end and post some pics. I'll also update my master BOM. Thank you!!!!

Still waiting for the 20 degree B4 caster blocks to show up. Parked next to a couple team cars projects for now.

Finished the stealth trans build and instal.

Showcase1186 wrote:While the chassis is out for powder coat I decided to use my new master G33 airbrush for the first time. For paint I used Parma Faskolor fasescent blue, black and backed it all with the pactra rattle can sprint white. With the compressor regulator set to 50psi, which had an actual output of 35psi consistent when shooting I was on my way. The paint scheme is based on Brian Kinwald's RC10 he drove to victory in the 93 worlds / IFMAR. My version boasts slightly bigger and more geometrically equal drips, which I like a bit more than the original box art, but it's all preference.



Updated pictures on the chassis and decal'd body will be posted next week.

Looks very good!!! Is there anyone one the board here that could do a paint job like this for me? I have 2 new RCPS Turbo Mirage bodies and would like to have one painted just like yours.

I have dual action airbrush and pretty much every color paint Pactra ever offered but never took the time to learn.

I envy you guys that can lay out graphics and paint.

VERY VERY NICE!!! If I understand correctly, you WILL be running this car. Before you do, you need to either remove some shims on the rear cvd's to allow the axles to protrude thru the nylon on the lock nuts, machine the backside of the lock nuts down to allow the axle to come through farther, or just go with a thinner nut. The rear wheels will not stay on the car for long, and if you just try to overtighten the nuts, you will just bind the wheels and axles up. You made referrence to the mistakes we make with our builds.......this is the voice of experience talking here. LOL!

I never thought this car would ever look this good, but then again, I had never seen any of YOUR work. GREAT JOB!!!!

Thanx XO! I used red locktite and have no fear of the wheel nuts coming off. Optimally I would agree with you a smaller nylon lock nut would be the best solution.

Showcase1186 wrote:Thanx XO! I used red locktite and have no fear of the wheel nuts coming off. Optimally I would agree with you a smaller nylon lock nut would be the best solution.

I had a hard time finding any thin (blue) 8-32 nuts for a TC3 rebuild.

I wound up taking the # 6943's and turning them down.

I just cut the head of an 8-32 screw, chucked it up in my drill press, threaded the nut on backwards and turned them down .055.

The red loctite will do the trick though.

I'm totally envious of your paint work!

I changed to the 20 degree B4.1 caster blocks, T4.1 steering blocks, and T4.1 axles (drilled to accept the 1/8" hinge pins). I encountered an issue with the bell crank system I was using. At full lock the inner steering rod ends would bind when the suspension was compressed. To eliminate this I used a Houge steering bell crank that has the outer 4-40 balls sit slightly lower than the center link.
View difference:

VS:


Also I needed to get the upper Camber tie rod end as far away from the steering tie rod end as possible, so I also purchased another set of nose tubes and cut them slightly longer than needed and this helped push the nose even further forward. This did 2 things.
1) Helped with the caster issue
2) Gained me valuable steering clearance at full suspension compression.
Historical note: (Kinwald used to add washers to his nose tubes in his Team Car to help the caster issue)

The next trick was to properly position the spacers to even further gain clearance. In these photos you can see where I put in the spacers as I'm pointing to them with a screw driver bit (sorry for the blurry photo):



I still have outer rod end binding at full steering lock when the suspension is completely compressed. However there is plenty of steering capability prior to suspension binding. Here is a photo of a B4.1 steering at lock and the WOIN at full steering prior to bind point:

This should provide adequate steering when being used...

Here is a pic of both at full steering lock, with the WION at bind point (notice the outer rod ends):


Some pics in reference to a B4.1:



Some pics in reference to a standard Team car:



Final thoughts... At full steering lock the front tire remains in contact with the ground, due to the B4.1 20 degrees casters and the longer nose tubes. The caster issue is completely solved, bump steer just about eliminated, dampening feels pretty good, but track time is needed:


I do still have the suspension bind at full steering lock, but this can be eliminated by simply setting the steering limiter on the controller. Another option would be to somehow relocate the camber tie rod to the front of the shock tower like the B4.1 design:

I'm imagining a shock mounted on the back of the tower and a custom bulk head like the 89 Masami car.
I just haven't figured a "good" way to gain clearance for the inner rod end and turnbuckle to clear the shocks.

Last thought would be to run the extended nose plate like the truck does. This would solve all the binding issue, but I would have the longer wheel base.
For now I'll try the steering limiter on my controller and see how it performs. I think this is all for the build thread. I Hope it helps someone along the way. Master BOM is updated. On to the next projects:

Woah, 35 degrees caster -

I feel so bad for anyone with dial up.........

scr8p wrote:I feel so bad for anyone with dial up.........

My goal was to clearly illustrate the build. I felt the pictures helped validate the words. Sorry if this slows anyone down.

Orange wrote:Woah, 35 degrees caster -

The 20 degree's are not mounted backwards. making 25