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does RPM make 1/10th hide-toned udders you could hang underneath?

No RPM....but 3d printed:
http://www.sculpteo.com/en/print/cow-udders-final/BtdhaFC4

gomachv wrote:No RPM....but 3d printed:
http://www.sculpteo.com/en/print/cow-udders-final/BtdhaFC4

Not sure why some one would even make this?

slotcarrod wrote:

gomachv wrote:No RPM....but 3d printed:
http://www.sculpteo.com/en/print/cow-udders-final/BtdhaFC4

Not sure why some one would even make this?

To put on the hood of your buggy, upside down like and 2% engine coming out of the body

I had an issue with the racing steering for my runner. While threading the post screw, the top of the post sheered off!
There was still enough meat to thread it on, so now it acts more like a lock nut. One question to Niki or Jake, should we use the lower nut on this steering kit?

.

The runner with the yellow wheels has a rere US tranny with a B4 top shaft and VTS slipper http://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/cars_and_trucks/shared/91175.pdf . Also the new RPM gear cover. The front wheel has one inner rib removed to narrow it and give it that vintage feel. I wanted a racer with hidden modern upgrades. The racing ball bearing steering by NIX is silky smooth and requires 4 1/4x3/8 flanged bearings.

slotcarrod wrote:I had an issue with the racing steering for my runner. While threading the post screw, the top of the post sheered off!
There was still enough meat to thread it on, so now it acts more like a lock nut. One question to Niki or Jake, should we use the lower nut on this steering kit?

Yes, thin nut #8182 should be used under race steering bellcranks. Check out the drawing:
http://www.rc10talk.com/download/file.php?id=91922&mode=view
On drawing only one nut is missing under right hand side std bellcrank (NIX91-012).

As bearings around NIX91-025 and -026 does not allow them to expand at all it's really important to drill the center holes clean. While assembling the bellcranks, parts 025 and 026 do not need to be tight on threads as thread is so long and almost zero force is trying to loose them.

-Niki-

Rod the pair of cars look great. Cant wait to see the Cliff version completed and even more curious to hear about the track report on your runner.

Jake

Damn those look good! I haven't seen a pair that nice since Ms. November 1989...

Nice set. Very cool project!!

THEYTOOKMYTHUMB wrote:Damn those look good! I haven't seen a pair that nice since Ms. November 1989...

Well seeing that I needed to research this. I stumbled across a fine site with all the playmates since Dec 53 to 2004. I do not want to post any such links but an easy search for any inclined. Yes Nov 89 is very fine and having to do more extensive research, I have found that like my RC cars, the 80's and 90's are very fine!

I tapped my steering parts, installed a screw, then sanded down the bearing surface so the bearings installed without stress.

I m building my own nix91 but i am at a loss for shock sets..
Could someone point me to the right direction for the 1.32 and 1.02 shock sets i should buy ? Threaded or not .. And not too expensive
Are the rears the same as the worlds re ?

Thanks !

Patriiick wrote:I m building my own nix91 but i am at a loss for shock sets..
Could someone point me to the right direction for the 1.32 and 1.02 shock sets i should buy ? Threaded or not .. And not too expensive
Are the rears the same as the worlds re ?

Thanks !

They are the same size as the rear worlds rere but totally different.

These are the shocks you need:
http://www.teamassociated.com/parts/details/6432/
http://www.teamassociated.com/parts/details/6431/

These will help if your not doing a Masami replica and most team drivers used them: (though not 100% correct, they look good)
http://www.teamassociated.com/parts/details/6451/
http://www.teamassociated.com/parts/details/6468/
http://www.teamassociated.com/parts/details/6480/
http://www.teamassociated.com/parts/details/6493/