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it was well over a year ago i initiated this project with 'hulk' from clodtalk and rccrawler, it took me a year to figure out what i wanted and him about a week to make it...

i pretty much just wanted a more scale looking 'real racing' style chassis design that used rc10 components and fit under a rc10 body. now that its finished and on its way i bounce back and forth on whether it would be cooler with the shock mounts incorporated into the cage, a plus would be the scale realism, a minus would be added wieght and complexity. being that i didnt really know what i wanted and that this was hulk's first time at a rc10-style chassis i think its best that the direction was more simple. if i ever get another one made it will definitely have the shock mounts incorporated into the cage.

i'm actually going to build this to run. so i'm not going to put alot of rare stuff on it. just some rpm arms and some beefy turnbuckles. brushless motor and nice elecs.

any advice/direction towards the proper brushless setup for a somewhat heavy pig of a car is appreciated.

how its coming in the mail:




partial build mockup pics. before bumber and additional bracing was welded on:

That looks friggin awesome. Did you build it? I want a tube chassis so bad. I think I could make one if I had the tools, but I don't.

You get all the good stuff lol,DON

Good motivation for me to get off my butt and get mine done.

sick rail!

cover it in paper mache and then.... and only then ill call you a playa

well i got it in the mail and realized it's just not doing it justice to use the stock towers and it really killed the scale aspect. so i ended up sending it back to hulk today to get shock hoops incorporated into the cage.

when i get it back i'll clean up/blend the joints some more and ship it off for powdercoat. its kinda ugly at this stage, but once it gets powdercoated it will look 100times better.

After it is powder coated, will it even need a body?

Tekin is about to release a line of sweet BL controllers. They are tiny
For the motor, I'd get something close to the 6000k/v range to approximate a mild mod motor.
To help counter the extra weight, perhaps a 7.4 (2S) lipo pack in the 2500-3000 mah range. Lipo packs will really help keep the weight down, but you will be adding a lot of weight up high, so removing weight down low may not gain you as much as one might assume due to the huge shift upward in COG.

No matter, it is going to look NICE. Maybe you can improvise body panels instead of covering that beautiful tube frame with a polycarbonate body, you know?

Ron Jeremy wrote:After it is powder coated, will it even need a body?

Tekin is about to release a line of sweet BL controllers. They are tiny
For the motor, I'd get something close to the 6000k/v range to approximate a mild mod motor. ...

That must be the biggest understatement here (no offense here!)

I'd say a 6000k/v is more a WILD mod than a mild mod motor!

I have a 6000k/v in my RC10T (does anybody have wabspace for me to upload my 1-2 MB clip of my brushless T doing a backflip?) and that motor is just past anything brushed I've installed before.

what is it made from? steel brakelines? or aluminum? It looks pretty cool though

You know what would be totally sick, tube suspension arms to match the chassis!

i really wanted a scale looking old school chenowth-style chassis that used the protech 1 body as a reference, but i may end up making something custom for it. the short time i had it before i sent it back to get shock hoops put on it i saw the limitations of using the stock body, i'll most likley end up using pieces from the protech to make a more custom body. before i send it off for powdercoating i'll get the body figured out, and get a mapp gas torch so i can braze body mounts on it.

shodog wrote:what is it made from? steel brakelines? or aluminum? It looks pretty cool though

its mig welded steel rod. obviously heavier than tubing but alot more durable and i would imagine alot easier to work with since you dont have to fishmouth the joints as much as you would using tubing. besides, a 1/10 chassis made out of steel rod is pretty much indestructable. my scale 2.2 crawler has taken some nasty falls that i'm sure would have trashed it if it were made from tubing.

I'd say a 6000k/v is more a WILD mod than a mild mod motor!

Perhaps you are right. Maybe "spirited" mod motor would be more accurate
However, I have a Novak 5800 and it seems to me to be roughly the equivalent of a 13 or 14 turn. 12 turn at best.
Novak's Velociti line runs from 5800 to 10500 kv, making 6000 just about the bottom of the line.
All this assuming you are somewhere in the 7.2 -7.4 volt range.

Sorry for being OT, OP!

not ot! i very much appreciate any advice to what to use to lose some wieght and go faster.

i'd like to run lipo and brushless. if any of ya care to just give a down and dirty explaination of them both it would be greatly appreciated. i dont want to go and buy an entire novak system if i can piece together a better, more custom setup.

i'd like to use something on the wicked side for power but with some consideration for runtime.

what about charging lipos? are there chargers like the superbrain for them? i've always been rather dense about charging batteries and have read stuff like you can blow your face off with them if you dont charge them right...

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXL353&P=V
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHDJ1&P=7
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXLVG3&P=6

is that decent for a battery/charger?