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I just installed an RC-10 B3 transmission in my RC10. I noticed the motor sits higher than my stock Rc-10. Do you guys think this will be a problem?



Thanks,

ED

Updated parts list

======================================================

Front:
-------------------------------------------------------------------
2701 Dynotech Racing Klein Front arms
6255 Servo Saver
7305 RC10T Nose Plate(NOS)
7207 RC10T Bulkhead
7222 Wide Front Axle
6221 Inline Steering Block
7315 FT Brace Tubes
7208 Front Bulkhead Brace
70725 RPM Mini Bumper
9588 B4 Front Wheel
3005-02 JConcepts Front(Green Compound)
2157 Dubro Racing Turnbuckles
DTXC2512 RC10T Molded Shock Towers(NOS)
A&L Vintage RC-10 ballbearing steering kit


Rear:
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2700 Dynotech Racing Klein rear arms
7208 GX Rear Wheel Spacers .125
9590 Holeshot Tire M3 + insert
9756 B44 Rear CVA Kit
2157 Dubro Racing Turnbuckles
70272 RC10T Bearing Carriers
9589 B4 Rear Wheels
JConcepts Rulux wheels

Shocks:
---------------------------------
RC-10GT Shocks
80420 Two Stage shock pistons

Transmission:
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Rc-10 B3 Stealth Transmission(2:40)

Electronics:
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Futaba Magnum Junior
ESC Novak Havoc
Novak Brushless SS pro 10.5

Measurements:
---------------------------------
Front: 9 1/2"
Rear: 9 5/8"
WheelBase: 11"

i'd be more worried about how much higher the outdrives are compared to the 6 gear or 2.25 stealth. you don't want the universals to be popping out.

did you mill the chassis out for the bottom of the trans case to sit in?

scr8p wrote:i'd be more worried about how much higher the outdrives are compared to the 6 gear or 2.25 stealth. you don't want the universals to be popping out.

With some different carriers at the wheelside the balance could be restored.

Thanks! I was not even looking at that(doh)..

Ok, so I measured my stock Rc-10 I found out the following.

7/16" Stock RC-10

5/8" B3 transmission

So, if I cut a hole in my chassis that will gain me 1/16" then I can shim my A-arm mounts another 1/16". That should get me close to the stock distance for the dogbones.

Should be able to try this tomorrow if I find time.

ED

Before you cut your tub, you may want to try shimming those rear suspension mounts a bit more, just to see if it'll work. It's hard to tell from the pic, but do you have something securing the transmission case to the rear bulkhead?

You can shim the tranny with 2 .020 plastic shock limiters, then 2 thick pan car alum washers under the
rear suspension mounts to get everything to match up--as for connecting the tranny to the tower, angle aluminum (not real pretty) or black kydex

I decided to cut a hole in the chassis.







Now I need to make a couple shims and a skid plate.

ED

Not bad. I like it.

I noticed the B3 also has a cutout in the rear chassis plate for this transmission, but does not have any type of skid plate.

Has anyone ever broken a B3 case ?


Ed

soniccj5 wrote:I noticed the B3 also has a cutout in the rear chassis plate for this transmission, but does not have any type of skid plate.

Has anyone ever broken a B3 case ?


Ed

It's not a problem, you don't need a skid plate, it just gets a few scratches on the bottom! I like scratches on my bottom!

Thanks!

I decided to cut a hole in the chassis.

CUT the chassis!!!! thats [youtube]52wfQHqBWHo&feature[/youtube]

sorry just dont like to see a nice chassis get cut or drilled.. all in all good job ...id like to see a vid of this thing runin...

it only cost $2.00

I hope to have this running soon.

ED

better a chassis with an extra hole than one without transmission I say