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Are there any measured drawings of the RC10 chassis or shock towers, or any other suspension parts floating around here? Or even CAD files of them?

I made some part some years back. Do you have access to machinery to make some parts?

http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?t=3894&p=38197#p38197

Thanks. I saw your parts, those are pretty awesome. I don't have anywhere near the patience for handcrafting like that. I will be getting a CNC router soon.

Here are some parts I made for an HPI E10:

Basically the holes were drilled by clamping parts and lining everything up that way, so at least it's all accurate there. The overall shape was drawing with a fine-point Sharpie and some French curves, then just sanded with a Dremel to get a smooth curve. Fine for my own use but nothing I would offer for sale. The mounts connecting the upper brace and gear cases are just horrible, but they work for now. I need to make something more elegant for sure.

I am stretching a chassis to put an SC10 body on a 10T chassis, and I got the measurements pretty close by hand. I need to make some threaded posts to use as reference guides for working between holes. Fortunately it seems like the boys kept the numbers pretty well-rounded when they were drawing up the first car. I had been using metric for years, I don't know why I switched back to inches for measuring this.

Here is my high-tech jig for drilling holes in the chassis plate:

I clamped the long piece of angle stock on place, used a square to locate the other piece, then clamped the chassis in place and drilled the necessary holes. Then I popped the chassis free, used spacer blocks to move it back 2.5", then clamped the chassis in place again for more drilling.

For clamps I actually use spring clamps to hold the parts once them are located, and then hot glue the pieces into place; it's quick, easy, holds well if there isn't too much torque on the part, and you don't need much surface area or have clamps hanging all over the place. The spacers were actually pre-cut balsa wood; I measure it using that and by eye and the tolerances with the balsa wood were better than by eye. Plus it's true side-to-side, which is more important to me in some cases; I'd rather have a chassis a few millimeters too long or shore than have one cockeyed.

I need to find some better material. This red fiberglass is from McMaster Carr, I don't have the part number handy. It seems fairly strong and stiff, but the surface finish is VERY rough. Again, fine for parts I'm making myself. The worst part is if you sand it, the surface turns pink...

The parts look good. The way I do it is very time consuming and frustrating at some times but it is very drafty and that’s the way I like it. Looks like you got your own system going and that’s good.
I also got my parts from McMaster Carr, it is a G-10 Fiberglass. Works great and the surface is nice and smooth. I can send you the number if you like.

So what is it you need? I can design and CAD something for you if you like. I made a chassis for my RC10T once, check the thread out.
http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=5690

m_vice wrote:The parts look good. The way I do it is very time consuming and frustrating at some times but it is very drafty and that’s the way I like it. Looks like you got your own system going and that’s good.
I also got my parts from McMaster Carr, it is a G-10 Fiberglass. Works great and the surface is nice and smooth. I can send you the number if you like.

So what is it you need? I can design and CAD something for you if you like. I made a chassis for my RC10T once, check the thread out.
http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=5690

Yeah, I've seen your cars, the parts are works of art I was just looking for dimensioned drawings of the stock chassis and shock towers, so I would have something accurate to work off of. I got the measurements for the chassis pretty dead on, I'll give the shock towers a try as well. I'll be working on new shock towers, chassis, etc.

I'd appreciate the part number for the G10 off McMaster. I have some Factory Works oval towers, the fiberglass is VERY nice stuff, Daryl Lane said it was standard black G10.

I think this is the one I got… but I have order several and they always come in different finishes but they are all smooth.

85345K612
Grade G-10/FR4 Colored Garolite Sheet 1/8" Thick, 12" X 12", Black

Hope this helps and post project pics when you get it going.