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Here are some pics of what I will be using in this build

Wow, 10º caster blocks, huh? That's going to turn in pretty quick...

Do the RPM front knuckles use the steel hex-shaped inline axles?

Quite the pile of parts, should be a cool build!

sweet.

now go get those bags open and start building.

scr8p wrote:sweet.

now go get those bags open and start building.

...coming from the guy who took weeks to put some wheels on his team car. j/k bro.

thats a buncha nice parts shodog. i really wish i could remember to call jps, i wish more that the guy woulda read my email asking for 6 sets...

you gonna use rpm arms on it right?

badhoopty wrote:

scr8p wrote:sweet.

now go get those bags open and start building.

...coming from the guy who took weeks to put some wheels on his team car. j/k bro.

good point. but i didn't have any tires to fit the 2.1 rims.

Very nice What type pf wheels are those? What does the RPM transmission conversion do?
all very cool stuff Jim!!!

Very nice What type pf wheels are those? What does the RPM transmission conversion do?
all very cool stuff Jim!!!

Thanks for the words of encouragement guys. I finished up dying the white parts I had black. I want this ride to be all stealthy.

Matt, the wheels are from JPS. I have a set of 5 hole champ 500's on order for you. I plan to do something cool with the wheels. I'll keep my mouth shut about it just incase they don't turn out like I hope.

The RPM gear box just basically replaces the standard one with a lower gear ratio. The hydradrive will turn out sweet eventhough I have no clue what the hell it does.

I plan to use RPM suspension arms and I have them on order from Towerhobbies.

Looks cool cant wait to see what you do with it!! Now if I can just find a roller

what a nice collection of parts!! Thats gonna be be-U-tiful when done.. Good luck-

a hydra is pretty much an overly complicated slipper clutch. kinda works like a torque converter.

since you want a stealth look, it'd be killer to anodize the wheels black.

You could call a hydradrive a progressive rate slipper.
A standard slipper by itself begins slipping at a specific torque (as set by the adjustment nut) and provides a constant friction regardless of torque applied, once slipping begins. The input and output differential, in RPM, varies based on input torque.
A hydradrive by itself has no start break point (slips at any value above zero torque) and provides a relatively constant slip rate, regardless of input torque. The more torque you input, the greater the resistance, relative to RPM.
If you combine the two, as is always done, you can set a very low break point (amount of torque to create slipping) yet not experience runaway slipping.
In practice, a Hydradrive's the net effect was (is) to add the benefit of a slipper without the cost of poor acceleration. Hydradrives were especially beneficial on rough tracks.
My guess as to why they are no longer THE thing to use is because they are extremely heavy, and in the worst possible way: rotating mass. Further, tracks are now much smoother, making the hydradrive less needed. Finally, slipper designs have improved to the point that, in combination with the previous reasons, there is no benefit.

Hopefully there are no engineers on here
I am sure my description is riddled with technical flaws, but I think I am pretty close!

What is the best dye to use?

that was a VERY nice description of a hydra.

i just use rit dye. i prefer the powder but the liquid works just as well from my experiences.

Ron Jeremy wrote:What is the best dye to use?

I second hoopty's recomend, I dyed these parts black using Rit dye. I like the liquid best.



Thanks Ron for that informative post. Now I better understand how the Hydrdrive works[/img]