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This is a quick video on how I cut some front towers for my Kyosho Turbo Ultima.

I design and draw everything on CAD and print on regular paper. Taped to material (2.5mm thick G-10 fiberglass sheet) with carpet tape and cut using a jewelry hand scroll saw with 0/2 blades (I use like 5, some broke some go dull).

After cutting I use a Dremel and drum sand all the edges and to finish I hand file to refine the part. Finally drill holes and counter sink where needed.

It probable took me +/- 3 hrs to make all 3 parts (front and rear towers and a chassis top plate). Some minutes got lost in thinking.

Thank you for watching.

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Very nice work, just curious what's a good saw and blades to get. And what program do you use to design your parts? I usually use graphing paper to draw my stuff out.

Very nice demonstration. I'm going to give that a try this afternoon with some carbon fiber.

I have done CF before and it is a bit harder but I can get the same results. Make sure the space is well ventilated.
My saw is 6” deep and I recommend the deeper the better. It helps with larger parts if you have more room behind the blade.
On blades, I say any brand is OK. I have tried the expensive and the very inexpensive ones and the inexpensive ones brake faster but you get 4 times the amount of blades for the same $. Like I mentioned above the 0/2 size blade is a good size, any smaller like 0/4 will take more time to cut and something like a 1 would be OK but the finish edge is not as refined as a 0/2.

Good luck with your parts.

Your dog is really slow!! The video said 300x speed, but your dog seems to be moving at a normal pace!

LOL.... She is very mellow...

Looks great man, I like the style of the front tower.

LIke the little guy too, me and my wife love our little dogs, we have 2 chihuahuas, they are fun.

This is really cool! Would it be possible to achieve similar results with a scroll saw?

This is one of the things I wanted you guys to know. I recently goy my new scroll saw hoping ti would make the job easier and faster but I fell like it is not going to work out.

http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=40&t=12520&start=0

The problem with the scroll saw is that it makes short movements up and down and only uses the bottom part of a blade. The blade gets fatigues or brake easily when cutting G-10 or CF. When you cut by hand you can use the whole blade and works out better. I am thinking the Scroll Saw works OK when cutting thinner material like 2mm or less. I still have to play with different size blades but I like the hand process better.
I will probable be experimenting after new years so I will keep you posted on my experience.

If you are thinking of cutting some parts I recommend you get the hand saw and go at it.

i usually use a hacksaw for all rough cuts, then follow up with files. I'll use a drill at the point of acute angles, or within an enclosed cut. goes very quickly.

the other thing i tend to do is drill the holes first, rather than after the shape is cut. this way, the holes are all 'true' in location, since the outside shape is pretty much irrelevant, if the cuts aren't perfect, it won't affect alignments.

I like the idea of a form to attach to the piece to cut, but i usually scribe the shape onto the material, this gives me a very fine line to cut or finish to.

I have been thinking of getting a small drum sander, which would really speed up the finishing process, you can really put some nice curves and shapes into the material with them, and leave the edge finish really nice and smooth.

Fiber glass sure uses up blades fast. I use a scroll and fret sometimes. most of the time i use drill press, cut off disks and sanding wheels on dremel -- Buddies call my projects 4M {Mad Man Mexi Machinest}

I might have to get one of those small hand saws.
I have been using a jigsaw with 1/8 in blades to cut my G10 and
it wears the blades out quick. If i use the wider blades its does better.
I like the idea of the drum sander the dremel works good but the drum
sander would be very handy to have.

yeah, the problem i have found is that when you use a quickly oscillating blade, it tends to overheat, and dull the teeth. Just the physical nature of the fiberglass, you can move very quickly with a hacksaw blade with a nice slow steady full blade stroke, the material and blade stays cool, and the cuts move fast.

trx450racer174 wrote:I might have to get one of those small hand saws.
I have been using a jigsaw with 1/8 in blades to cut my G10 and
it wears the blades out quick. If i use the wider blades its does better.
I like the idea of the drum sander the dremel works good but the drum
sander would be very handy to have.

The saw being used in the video is called a coping saw. Very handy for small intricate cuts. A drum sander would be very cool - I hadn't thought of that. Can they be had relatively cheaply?

I was thinking of this one:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=95088

about a hundred bucks. not heavy duty or anything, but for g10, graphite, aluminum, under 4mm or so, I would think this would be plenty.