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I recently dug my old RC10s out of the basement and have put one together. I have a new battery and a new engine that I bought myself for christmas.

I am using an old novak receiver and an old novak T1 speed controller. The new engine is a trinity chameleon.

I had a heck of a time soldering the engine wires to the motor and eventually gave up and used electrical clips.

Put everything together over the weekend, put a new charge on the battery, and took it out for a trial run. It ran at about 1/4 speed for 4 minutes and then just stopped working. There was a slight whine coming from the T1 and I think it may have even beeped a little. I removed the connection from the motor to the T1 and the steering started working again. After letting it sit for about 10 minutes it ran again for a minute, but then died. Again, I removed the connection to the motor and the steering servo started working again. Any thoughts?

I have an old T4 and a futaba ESC that I might try.

I will post some pictures of these old cars soon.

May have an "engine" issue...that or there is too much resistance in the motor "clips" causing the ESC to overheat.

check and make sure you have the required caps on the motor. then check the brushes to see if they need to be changed. also check if there is no hang up between the brushes and the hood. sometimes dirt can cause the brushes not to ride freely inside the hood. while your at it give the motor a bath.

what i usually do when i haven't run a car for a while is redo my setup on the radio and speed control. make sure all the settings on the radio are correct for the speedo, and redo the setup on the speedo again. that should do it.

if not it could be your battery. test one thing at a time until you got it.

get yourself a hotter soldering iron. everyone needs one no matter what.

sounds like a bad battery to me

The soldering issue may be dirty wires as well. I know I had to redo a speed control a while back and after 3 hrs I decided to try some fresh wire and that solve that issue. Also make sure that the termainals on the motor are clean as well. Depending on the wire you are using dirt and oil residue will keep the sauter from sticking.

Sounds like incorrect gear mesh causing it to run slow and overheat the speedo.

have you checked the brushes??

Thanks for all of the responses.

The motor is brand new and the brushes seem to have broken in correctly. I will try again to solder a real connection and will try to find some 16 guage wire as well. I am currently using 14 guage wire to go to the motor because that is all I had.

I really have no idea why I was having so much trouble soldering. I feel like I could not get the parts hot enough, but I will rouch up the connectors to make sure there is no grease on them from the packaging. That is a good point. I had no problem soldering all the Dean's clips.

I didn't understand the comment about the correct "caps" on the motor. What are the caps and wouldn't it be correct if it is new?

Also, the battery is only a month old, but I should probably buy another one. I have a victor engineering charger and I did notice that when the charge was complete it complained that it could not peak the battery one time.

I will also make sure the gear mesh is not too tight. This one is the original pitch size which I think was 32 pitch. The other car I have is much nicer, but I do not have any pinion gears for it. I upgraded it as a kid, but I am not sure what pitch the gear is.

Just start fresh on your solder connections. You probably have a "cold joint" that is limiting the transfers of power and overloading the esc. Make sure you are using good solder (ie. deans) with flux and a hot iron. I my experiences, this should limit your problems.