RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

Ok, Guys gonna try another paint fiasco! got my 97 OLDS body for my DS (body was super hard to find) paint scheme is TransAm style Blue top,white with red down the side n rear panel. Ok here we go . I got a cheapo air brush,some fast color. I also have some rattle cans. this body came with no window black outs,what to use without my regular dreaded spider webs. there ya go !!!! WAKE ME UP!!!!!!!!!!

Johnny,
It's probably best to pick between the two paints, the faskolor is a waterbased acrylic and the pactra lacquer will attack it. the only pactra paint that is really compatible is the Acryl line, which is not a spray can. I paint with both fastkolor, and pactra spray, just depends what I'm doing, but I've never had good results mixing the two.

As far as masking goes, you can use tape, make sure it's new, and burnish the edges really good, I usually use my finger nail or the back of a pen cap or something like that, that is hard and smooth, make sure you do it right before you spray as well, and can't stress enough, LIGHT COATS. Personally I like using liquid mask for most projects. I Like Bob Dively mask, I've had nothing but bad experiences with parma liquid mask.

For the fastkolor in an airbrush, I usually thin my paint a little bit with purified water, depends on the colors, some like to be thinned a little more than others, also depends on how old the fastkolor is as well (get some scrap pieces of plastic and practice, empty 2 liter bottles work well, just cut them up with scissors). When working with fastkolor I also like to scuff the inside of the body just a little, I usually use a super fine scotchbrite kitchen sponge when I wash the body, this usually does the trick, This really helps with adheasion as the water based acrylic enamels don't "bite in" to the surface like the lacquers do. Also with the fastkolor, since it is a bit on the fragile side, I like to back it up with something, I usually use rustoleum crystal clear enamel, you can get it at the hardware store, wal mart, places like that.

Lastly, when painting, go darkest to lightest with your coats, some colors like the blue and red you mentioned will change when shot over each other, so your best bet is to back up those colors with white before you move to the next color.

Hey PBR, thanks a lot ,I think the rattle can is the way to go. sloooo shure. Thanks for the HELP! JohnnySr.

PBR Allstar wrote:Johnny,
It's probably best to pick between the two paints, the faskolor is a waterbased acrylic and the pactra lacquer will attack it. the only pactra paint that is really compatible is the Acryl line, which is not a spray can. I paint with both fastkolor, and pactra spray, just depends what I'm doing, but I've never had good results mixing the two.

As far as masking goes, you can use tape, make sure it's new, and burnish the edges really good, I usually use my finger nail or the back of a pen cap or something like that, that is hard and smooth, make sure you do it right before you spray as well, and can't stress enough, LIGHT COATS. Personally I like using liquid mask for most projects. I Like Bob Dively mask, I've had nothing but bad experiences with parma liquid mask.

For the fastkolor in an airbrush, I usually thin my paint a little bit with purified water, depends on the colors, some like to be thinned a little more than others, also depends on how old the fastkolor is as well (get some scrap pieces of plastic and practice, empty 2 liter bottles work well, just cut them up with scissors). When working with fastkolor I also like to scuff the inside of the body just a little, I usually use a super fine scotchbrite kitchen sponge when I wash the body, this usually does the trick, This really helps with adheasion as the water based acrylic enamels don't "bite in" to the surface like the lacquers do. Also with the fastkolor, since it is a bit on the fragile side, I like to back it up with something, I usually use rustoleum crystal clear enamel, you can get it at the hardware store, wal mart, places like that.

Lastly, when painting, go darkest to lightest with your coats, some colors like the blue and red you mentioned will change when shot over each other, so your best bet is to back up those colors with white before you move to the next color.

just finished a body with fastkolor and you are right about being fragile, i can almost scape it off with my fingernail. i didn't scuff it with a scotch bright pad, but i will top-coat it with enamel to try and keep the paint on there as long as possible. how many coats do you use?
thanks

The paint gurus over at RCTech.net say the Faskolor paint holds up just fine. Maybe your surface prep wasn't adequate? The people there backspray everything not to make it adhere better, but to protect it from scratches & scuffs from the chassis/mounts.

I also read (I did a lot of research into this) that Pactra and Faskolor get along just fine, but you need to give the Faskolor PLENTY of time to dry before applying Pactra over top; and ideally, it was recommended to shoot the Pactra lacquer first, and do the Faskolor after the Pactra has had plenty of drying time.

I saw someplace that the Pactra paints are going bye bye. The Pactra acrylic for air brush seem to work the best, and when dry stay on the best. It's to bad that it's being discontinued. At the local hobby store I've clean them out of White, Silver, and Black. These colors I use to back paint jobs and mix with colors the most. Good luck post pictures johnny.

Q

PBR Allstar you were spot on. My prep wasn't great but the paint job turned out good and the enamel spray afterwards worked great too, 2 coats. The Fastkoat needed a little more time to cure and it was ok.

Turned out not as much of a "fail" as i first guessed