RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

Hello folks. So I was reading a ton of posts in regards to "worlds" front ends, switching to 2.2 wheels, etc...With that said, I've decided to do both.

A little background:
I have a graphite chassis which I thought was going to be my pride and joy but it's a 6 gear and I haven't seen anyone with a RC10T/Worlds front on one without hacking it into pieces so I'm going to leave it alone and build off a gold tub(B ver. with Stealth) I won off ebay.

With that said, I've got the 10T shock tower, 10T tubes(7315), RC10T Bulkhead(7207) and the RPM RC10T bumper. Question is, can I bolt an RC10GT noseplate to my gold tub for this conversion or do I need to find a 10T noseplate? Reason I ask is because the Gt nose plate is easy to find and is blue (I'm going with a blue theme) and a T noseplate isn't so easy. Also, do I need RC10T front brace or no?

Lastly, for the 2.2 wheels conversion, specifically the front... I've got the bearings, the larger GT axles, and the jConcepts Rulux wheels. I see a lot of people talking about these two items when doing this conversion.

RC10 castor blocks or 25 degree blocks
RC10 inline steering blocks (6220... for aluminium axles)

Are they needed or can I just drop the GT axles into the original RC10 hubs and move on? Really wanna get this thing going. Thanks for all your help in advance.

Posted pic of my graphite while dying some parts. The Rit Royal blue came out amazing. More to post later....

the 10t and gt nose plates are the same. since your building it as a buggy, you will have to shorten the nose tubes because of moving the noseplate back. well, you can leave the length alone, but you will have to drill and tap 2 new holes.

as long as you have the steering knuckles for the aluminum axles, the gt axles will fit just fine. if not, you're gonna have to buy some.

oh, and i wouldn't consider modifying the rc10 front kickup to use a 10t/worlds bulkhead "hacking it to pieces"...... if it's done nicely.

Scr8p, you're saying you would consider drilling into the graphite for the 10T bulkhead or you wouldn't?

I know a lot of folks like to keep the integrity of the old vintage original pieces and I think I'm going to do the same. My graphite will stay a nice and happy 6 gear with original parts. My gold pan will become the transformation from old to new buggy.

Oh and one more thing. Arms... Are the Black RPM's on tower the same length as the Dynotech white versions? Reason I'm asking is because I have the B44 CVA's sitting at home as well. RPM's provide two arms for the price of one dynotech. If I can fit the B44 CVA's with the RPM's, I'm buying them instead. Thanks!

TViz wrote:Scr8p, you're saying you would consider drilling into the graphite for the 10T bulkhead or you wouldn't?

i sure would consider it, and have already done it.
the rpm arms on tower are not the same as the dynotech arms. they're the same length as the stock rc10 arms.

Like this?

Charlie and scr8p, wow, nice work. Well, any chance you can provide some advice on how to do it? Any before and after hole pictures? What I will need? I have a dremel and the work station (see pic) and various tools that I could use to do this. What do I need to drill the holes in the graphite and how do I make the countersunk holes that the graphite chassis come with?

Sorry, new to the "drilling" and also very afraid. I don't want to ruin my the chassis!


Scr8p, you said "As long as you have the steering knuckles for the aluminum axles, the axles will fit just fine". Do you mean the stock RC10 steering knuckles? If so, I do have them. If not, which do I need to get?

Thanks again.

I can't tell you where to drill the holes, but I can give you some tips for drilling the carbon.

a drill press is more suited to what you want to do, rather than a dremel, but you can use that, or even a hand drill.

composites are a pain the butt to drill through cleanly, so my suggestion would be to clamp the nose firmly down, on top of something that fits the flat surface really tightly, otherwise, when the bit comes through, it will split the fibers. I typically use a piece of fiberglass, g10/fr4, etc, I have a bunch of scrap that works nicely. I would drill down from the bottom side, and clamp the inside down to the fiberglass, plastic, etc. I wouldn't use wood unless you have a nice peice of hardwood. pine, etc is too soft, and will still allow some splitting. If you can help it, locate the holes, and drill though with the correct size in one shot, not pilot hole, sucessive bits, etc, the composite would rather fray than cut cleanly, and will corkscrew the bit.

after you do that, the proper method for the countersink would be a counter sink bit. they are available in different angles, you probably need a 45 degree on, off the top of my head. someone here may know better.

if you have a REALLY sharp drill bit around a 3/8" to 1/2", you can try that to make a counter sink, but make sure you use a very high speed on the drill, as fast as it will go. using the countersink or drill requires a chuck that can handle it, so thats why i mention the dremel probably doesn't have the capacity.

make sure you only countersink deep enough for the screw head. most times, it's trial and error for me, I'll trim, stick a screw in and see how tightly it sinks, and sneak up on the final depth, so I don't go too far.

once you drill the holes, you can trim the nose width with a cutoff wheel on the dremel. I would avoid the dust, use a facemask or at least a cloth over your mouth and nose, and vaccuum it up quickly. carbon dust is not good apparently. It's not super poisonous or anything and will immediately hurt you, just as a precaution to avoid breathing the dust.

Thanks jwscab. Yeah, the dremel station is the best I have. I don't have a drill press. But in regards to speed, this thing will spin way faster than any drill I have. What kind of drill bits should I be using? Drill bits for metal? And where can I pick up some G10? Any chance the Depot carries it? I feel like I gotta try this but am a bit nervous. I have a mask also. Definitely will wear it.

Thanks.

regular high speed drills are fine (metal bits), that sharper the better, fresh out of the pack is the best. I have thought about using some of those brad type drills, they bore the material out on the outer diamter, but thats not something i'll recommend until i try it.

yes, the dremel will spin very fast, actually too fast for some applications and drill bits.

do you have a hand drill? that might be a better option for countersinking.

home depot might have a counter sink bit. I doubt they have the g10, but really, any hard plastic or hardwood is fine, even a piece of metal is good too, flat stock or whatever you have lying around. the goal is to support the back of the material so the pressure doesn't push it out before it gets cut. I mentioned g10, just becuase i have scrap pieces. alumuinum would be fine also, just anything flat you back the surface up with, that isn't flimsy.

Got ya. the bits I have are fresh. Recently moved into a new place and bought a bunch of tools. I have a few pieces of material I think would work well. Old cutting board, even a metal door hinge would suffice I think, obviously making sure the door hinge holes aren't where I'm drilling. Thanks again for your help. I'll let ya know how I make out.

I have hand drill as well but I am not steady enough for this. I like the workstation because the pressure applied is very precise like a drill press and I can play with the speed very easily as well.

And if I fail miserably, I always have the gold tub to work off of.
Thanks again for your help. I'll let ya know how I make out.

In my experience composites are a lot easier to drill precisely than aluminum parts. On the aluminimu the tool always drifts of so easy.
A smal tap punch helps to make sure you start at the right spot.
Don't forget to get the bit to make countersinks too.

old cutting board is great, as long as it has a smooth finish.

as far as drilling the hole, the dremel will be fine. But for use the countersink bit, you might end up with the hand drill. what is the max capacity on the dremel chuck? typically the countersink bits will have a 1/4 inch shaft or so.

see if this link works, there are a bunch of different types....3 or 6 flute would probably be the smoothest for carbon fiber.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#countersink-drills/=5kpej0

Wow, that site is an eye sore.

Thank you though. Very helpful. I looked for the chuck load on the dremel but couldn't find it. Sorry. At work too so not excatly the most productive thing to be doing. If I find the info, I'll let ya know.

Dremel has a countersink bit in its own range with a 3.2mm shaft (standard max size)