RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

I am new here. But I am the original owner of my buggy.

A couple years ago I changed out the gold tub for the black one because the gold one was beat and I could not find a gold one. I have also replaced some of the plastic with black (white pieces aren't easy to come by)

I also upgraded the motor to a brushed 8T with an eletronic speed controller.

I am still running the original tranny and have never replaced anything in the drive train except to put on a bigger spur gear and smaller pinion (with the 8T motor) I have also put in all new deans connectors because my connectors were melting.

Now... my battery gets stupid hot and the shrink wrap on my batteries melt.

Any ideas what could be causing this? I want to get the performance this car used to put out when it was new, or even better with the new 8T motor.

Should I be able to run an 8T motor in it? What about the tranny and bearings and gears, joints and wheel bearings?

Is it a brushed or brushless motor? If it is brushed it is WAY too much motor for the car. You would need to gear it super low to keep from melting everything. If it is brushless it is still a bit much, but the car and electrics should be able to handle it.

brushed motor.

what do you recommend as far as a motor goes?

Should the bearings be replaced or the tranny? I wondering if anything in the drive train could be causing this.

What about the battery?

I would recommend a 19T brushed motor for your basher. Todays motors are so much better it will be like running a much lower turn mod of yesteryear. That 8T motor is for competitive touring car or drag racing.

Exactly! If you are going to run brushed motors, the 19t is perfect. Be sure to calculate out the final drive ratio and make sure the motor is not over geared. Also take the pinion off or motor out and spin the rear wheels.

Lift up on the rear arms until the arms are level and spin the back tires. They should freewheel fairly easily. If they don't you have a problem that will cause added drag on the motor causing everything to heat up.

Another thing to consider is where you are running the car. If you are running in the grass or other places that the car wasn't really designed to run, it will cause overheating problems.

thanks for all the great input! The back does not spin freely at all.
How do I calculate the gear ratio?

This was borrowed from the Novak site.

Using standard-sized tires to calculate your FDR, first divide your vehicle's spur gear by the pinion gear, then multiply that result by the internal drive ratio of the car. The internal drive ratio can be found in the documentation that comes with your vehicle. EX. (72 spur ÷ 21 pinion) x 2.5 internal drive ratio = 8.57 FDR

For your internal ratio you will need to know which transmission you have. If it has a metal plate inside with gears hanging off both sides and a total of 6 internal gears it is a "6 gear" transmission. (1.86 ratio if I remember right)

If it has 2 plastic gears and a top shaft with a metal gear it is a stealth. (2.25 internal ratio).

You just need to determine what the recommended FDR is for your particular motor and go from there.

any recommendations on a specific motor as far as brushed motors go?

You said "The back does not spin freely at all" If that is correct you will need to determine why before moving forward.


As far as brushed motors I had good luck with the Trinity C027. I think it was as fast as my old Reedy Silver Dot.

ED

i will be tearing apart the back soon... but in the mean time i am trying to figure everything else out.

What about about single or double motor? What does that mean, and how does it affect performance? What would be better?

Thanks for everyone's help

Reedy motor plus RC10 match made in heaven. Get a spare set of brushes and springs (in case you lose one during maintenance) and a com stick and it should last a long time.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXTSG8&P=7

Oh, and bearing oil and motor spray.

Single, double, triple, quad and so on refers to the number of wires used in the winding. For example, a 15x2 would use 15 turns of wire around each armature pole, but there would be 2 seperate wires of around 20ga wire. A 15x4 would also have 15 turns around each pole, but would use 4 strands of wire. The difference is torque and efficiency. A 15x2 will be snappier on the bottom end, but will not have the run time that a 15x4 will have. A double is also not as smooth as a triple or quad. There are a number of considerations when choosing a motor, especially a brushed motor. For just bashing around in the street or the baseball field at the local school yard, a 19t or a 27t brushed would be just fine.

The "silver dot" previously mentioned is a 21x1 motor. Compare that to the 27t stock motor and the 19t motor, both of which are single winds. For a higher wind like those, a single isn't a bad thing since the motor isn't a monster anyway. A couple of my favorite 2wd motors back in the day were a 17x1 and a 20x1. Once again, this fits with the already recommended 19t or 27t stock motors.

Another consideration for you has to be the transmission type. You titled your thread as "Championship Edition", so I am left to assume your car is equipped with a stealth transmission. If so, you aren't too restricted on motor choices. If it is the original 6 gear though, that's a different story.

I have to agree with the previous post though. You have to determine where your binding is coming from and resolve that issue before even considering anything else. If it is just a matter of dirty bearings, you can use a can of brake cleaner to spray the bearings until they are clean. If you place them on the tip of a pencil, you can spin them while you spray them. Lube them with your choice of lubricant and you will see a huge difference.

Don't forget the outdrive bearings when checking things. Also, check to be sure the wheels arent binding against the hub carriers. Improper spacing between the carrier bearings or insufficient spacing between the roll pin and the outer bearing will cause binding.

Hope this helps!

It is the 6 gear tranny

Here is a video of how freely the wheels spin. Notice there is some wobble too, is that ok?

From what I could see in the video(kept buffering) it looks btoh tires do not spin together. Do you still have the motor installed?

ED

You will need to remove the transmission from the vehicle. You have a few problems there. The wheels should never spin independently like that. If the motor is in the vehicle and the pinion gear is up against the spur gear, the tires should spin in opposite directions. If the motor is out and the spur gear is allowed to spin freely, both wheels should rotate in the same direction. Just as a reference, my vehicles would spin for about a minute with the 6 gear transmission.

Take the transmission out and open it up.