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Hi guys, added another Yokomo to my collection. This time is a YR-4II Compact with a SLK body, it's sealed but i do have plans to open it up and build it unless you guys have some suggestions otherwise.

Here are some box pics for now, until i opened her up.

Wilson

I've decided to break the seal today and start my build on the Compact. It's been a while since I last built a new Yoke but the fit is comparable to kits I've built in recent years. In terms of finishes, some plastic need some work to get rid of the flashing, it could be just me that want this to look perfect or close to it anyway. I did spent a little more time on the magnesium motor mount and some other metal parts to coat them with a thin layer of oil. One main issue i did encounter, which is the lack of bearings. Luckily I have some on it's way for my 870C restore, I'll just have to order more next week or so since I am in the process of restoring that old car.

The Compact is not done yet, below are pictures of what has been accomplished today so far.

Enjoy
Wilson

That would be sooo much fun to run incognito among a field of Tamiya M-chassis

the bearings... might not fit for wheel blocks: the 870C has 10 mm outerdiameter bearings, and this one 11mm, I think

that's just evil!!! hahaha...

Hopefully i'll get to run my TC again as the closest carpet track closed down recently. The closest carpet track from my area now is like 2 hour drive. I am not going to run this if it's not on carpet.

As for the bearings, the order that is coming include some for my YR-4M2 Type J restore, no worries there. Thanks for the heads up though.

Wilson

Awesome !!! More build pics Let's keep this new-build-picture-lovestory-thread stuff going !

Here is a pic of a nip yr-4 compact decal set i just found in case the kit is missing decals (but they are for the BMW Z4 version).

Thanks Phoenix, since it was sealed, everything is in the box including the decals. And I think it would be tough to make the SLK looks like a SLK with Z3 lights on... hahaha...

Anyway, i did some assembly today. Still waiting for the bearings to arrive so the diff and rear hub will have to wait. I did have a few 5x10 lying around so i assembled the front. I will probably build the shocks as my next step. Now a question to you all, should i fill the shocks with oil or leave them empty? This car is definitely not a shelf queen, yet i doubt it will see any action anytime soon.


Thanks
Wilson

I would fill them up and use green slime. If they still leak , at least you will know before the race

it's been a while since i last update on the built as i was waiting to get an order ready for some bearings for this and my other cars that needed to get replacement. I will start again in the coming week and should have some pics up by then. I will also start a new post for a NIB YRX-10 that i recently acquired. Since this is a different version than the two i have, i still don't have a copy of the Assembly Manual for them...

wicked mate!! yrx-10

Finally got my bearings in for the rear hub and the car is now "complete" minus electronics, tires and body. I probably won't have a chance to run this car until my local carpet track reopen (hopefully) in the winter time. Plus it's summer time, no other season is better to run nitro than the summer.

So for now, this will go back into the box since my shelfs are full of cars. Part of the reason that my shelfs are full is rc10talk but the major reason is you guys...

I just remembered I also bought a YR-F2, the front wheel drive Yok. I will start a new thread with pictures.

Wilson

Do you have the right batterypack for this? If I remeber well thay only take 5 or 4 cells, not?

Ed, regular 6 cell will fit but the end cap will need a little trimming for the wires. I've snapped a few pics with my lipo below. The first is a rectanglar hardcase with wires coming out on top, it's a hair bigger than the cap but will squeeze in just fine. It would be a perfect fit if it's a couple of mm smaller here and there. The second pic is also a lipo in the traditional stick pack style and as you can see, the end cap will need trimming to fit.

I also attached a pic for size comparison. On the left is the Compact and on the right is the YR-4M2. From the accurate measurement of my eyes, i would say the diff in wheelbase is about 2 cm. I just checked the manual for verification, the Compact is 240mm and the M2 is 257mm.

Hopefully that answered your questions.

Thanks
Wilson

My bad: I just realize it's the follow up of this chassis that used a different pack.
I don't know the exact name but it's the same generation as an MX-4.