RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

This is my first post on RC10talk. I found an RC10T online and am planning on turning it into a street truck. The chassis is in really good shape. All I really need to replace are some turnbuckles and other small bits and it will be ready to roll. The body is also something I will need to replace. I have found pretty much all the stuff I need (minus the body) on Tower.

I have read many posts already regarding similiar projects. I will be posting more specific questions as I move along with my project.

I plan on running HPI V-Grooves on AE black dish rims. I have a 14t ESC from my SC10. I will be using the Futaba Magnum Jr. that came with the truck when I bought it a few months back. I also have a Novak Rooster ESC but thought maybe the newer Dynamite ESC would be better. Any suggestions on which motor would work best for my street/parking lot runner would be greatly appreciated. I don't want to run a crazy motor.

Thanks in advance for the help I'm sure I will receive via this site.

I was planning on running a 12t in my second truck but after reading it doesnt really have enough torque to pull a heavy truck, I read a lot and noticed a good motor to run is around 17t. It has enough torque and to get it going and good top end. But just to let you know once you get a taste of brushless you wont go back, even for messing around brushless is GREAT! Oh and welcome.

Welcome,
I too have the Brushless itch
but I did put a 17t double mod in my Buggy recently with a 7 cell and It's got plenty of torque and I would guess does about 25 mph with off road gearing. Should be perfect for your parking lot runner. Just play around with the pinion and spur set-up (watch your motor temps) and you might get 35+ mph out of it.

Thanks for the responses.

I just put a brushless system in my SC10 .... it's so smooth. I plan on using the electronics I replaced from it in the RC10T.

Burnsmonkey, any thoughts on whether or not a Speed Gems 14T brushed would be too much for the Stealth transmission? I have read on other forums that today's motors are a lot more powerful than what was available in '94. A 14T probably would not enough torque either, right?

Metallicats33, I was thinking about a 17T for this truck. It seemed like a good "mid-range" motor that would allow me enough torque and speed for what I am after. Thanks for the input.

I'm sure I will eventually drop a brushless system in the RC10T but my budget does not allow it at this time.

If thats all you got you can try it, just watch your gearing and motor temps. I was going to use a Speed Gems Chrominum which is a 16x2 and thought that was maybe pushing it. But give it a shot and just make sure you get a proper final drive ratio for your stealth and a good spur/pinion ratio to start with. I dont use a temp gun myself, but run it for few minutes and feel the motor, you should be able to touch it without getting burned. Done it myself when I had to high a ratio and now I have no fingerprints on my index. But if you have a temp gun its wise.

I am looking for recomendtions for which tires to use on my RC10T. Previously, I planned on making this a street truck but now I am leaning towards keeping it what it was designed to be. I'm not sure what to get. I have ProLine Calibers on my SC10 and I like them. Should I use a different tread pattern on the front than the rear? Rear spikes and front 'grooves'? Any thoughts on ProLine "The Edge" tires? They look like the would be a good fit for the track I run my SC10 at.

Thanks

How can I tell what chassis I have? I have seen 'A', 'B',....what does that mean anyway? When it was produced? Is one more 'valuable' than another?

the stamp in on the chassis behind the transmission under the motor.

the stamp itself does not determine value really. it more or less helps id when and what it is. condition is what determines value. now some of the chassis are more saught after than others. for example.

light gold with no stamp and light gold with A stamp and originals.
factory powder coated chassis.
milled, hard anodized worlds chassis (C stamp)

the common orangeish gold and black chassis are very common and would need to be new to have much value and that will still be limited.

LowClassCC wrote:the stamp in on the chassis behind the transmission under the motor.

the stamp itself does not determine value really. it more or less helps id when and what it is. condition is what determines value. now some of the chassis are more saught after than others. for example.

light gold with no stamp and light gold with A stamp and originals.
factory powder coated chassis.
milled, hard anodized worlds chassis (C stamp)

the common orangeish gold and black chassis are very common and would need to be new to have much value and that will still be limited.

Oh and dont for get to tell him the the black chassis's that are milled and are stamped C have no value so if you have any just send them to me.

It's a black chassis stamped "B". Nothing special?

Bearings...what speed rating do I need to use? I plan on using a local bearing shop (much more affordable and good quality) to replace all the bearings in my RC10T and want to make sure I am getting bearings that will match the RPM requirements.

AvidRC.com is probably your best bet, I just use the evolution bearings and are about $1 a piece.

Parts are starting to arrive...RPM a-arms, new turnbuckles, tires, T2 body, and other odds and ends. I have completely disassembled and cleaned the truck and am now ready to get started.

I will post some pics soon to show the before and after.

Look forward to seeing the progress.

I found servo mounts for the RC10T (part #6336). I checked my chassis and didn't see holes for mounting them for the steering servo. Did the 10T come stock with a mechanical speed control and that's what these are for?