RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

I have been unable to find a comparison chart between brushed and brushless motors. For example, a 10.5 turn brushless is equal to a __ turn brushed.

I want to place a new brushless system in my RC10T and want to make sure I will not overpower the Stealth transmission. More specifically, what is the brushless counterpart to a 17 turn brushed?

A 13.5 brushless is about the same as a strong 19t brushed. A 10.5 brushless runs more like a 12 or 13 turn brushed. We run 17.5 and 13.5 brushless in our RC10's with the stealth tranny and they are plenty fast. I tried mine with a 10.5 brushless and found it to throw the balance of the car off since the front end became much less effective. Of course, these findings all come from a blue groove race track. If you are just bashing you could probably get away with a 10.5. Anything more and it's just way too much. My own suggestion (based on experience) would be the 13.5.

JHarris wrote:A 13.5 brushless is about the same as a strong 19t brushed. A 10.5 brushless runs more like a 12 or 13 turn brushed. We run 17.5 and 13.5 brushless in our RC10's with the stealth tranny and they are plenty fast. I tried mine with a 10.5 brushless and found it to throw the balance of the car off since the front end became much less effective. Of course, these findings all come from a blue groove race track. If you are just bashing you could probably get away with a 10.5. Anything more and it's just way too much. My own suggestion (based on experience) would be the 13.5.

Thanks for the info. I was thinking a 13.5 would be a good choice. Which motor or system works for you?

What kv rating would you recommend for an RC10T? What effect do the larger wheels have on which to choose? I was told that these heavier kits need more torque to get them moving.

Any thought on AE systems? The system that is included in the new T4.1 looks good to me (http://67.199.85.166/main/productdetails.php?text=936)...it is 3300kv and priced right.

Thanks again.

sneako43 wrote:

JHarris wrote:A 13.5 brushless is about the same as a strong 19t brushed. A 10.5 brushless runs more like a 12 or 13 turn brushed. We run 17.5 and 13.5 brushless in our RC10's with the stealth tranny and they are plenty fast. I tried mine with a 10.5 brushless and foun3300kVd it to throw the balance of the car off since the front end became much less effective. Of course, these findings all come from a blue groove race track. If you are just bashing you could probably get away with a 10.5. Anything more and it's just way too much. My own suggestion (based on experience) would be the 13.5.

Thanks for the info. I was thinking a 13.5 would be a good choice.

Any thoughts on AE systems? I saw the 3300kv system that is used in the new T4.1 and thought it may work well (it's priced right, too).

If you are talking about the AE LRP Eraser set up with the 13.5, I have it in my Yoke, and it is plenty for it. Haven't had an issue yet. Make sure it comes with the sensor wire, and order a spare sensor wire as well, they seem a bit brittle.

I've run the traxxas velineon setup on 3s li-po in my goldpan. 6-gear exploded almost instantly. the stealth has held up so far. Speed is ballastic. In my opinion the vintage brushed setups suit the cars much better. Brushless is way to much.

illshou wrote:I've run the traxxas velineon setup on 3s li-po in my goldpan. 6-gear exploded almost instantly. the stealth has held up so far. Speed is ballastic. In my opinion the vintage brushed setups suit the cars much better. Brushless is way to much.

I am leaning towards keeping it a brushed truck. I run brushless in my SC10 and it is so fun to run!

What motor would you recommend that offers good low-end torque and fun top speeds? I do not plan to race, only run it at a local track for fun. If I stay with brushed, I will run NiMh batteries (the current ESC in my truck does not support LiPo).

Great thread... very informative. now i know which BL system to get to power my Avante.

Thanks guys

JHarris wrote:A 13.5 brushless is about the same as a strong 19t brushed. A 10.5 brushless runs more like a 12 or 13 turn brushed. We run 17.5 and 13.5 brushless in our RC10's with the stealth tranny and they are plenty fast. I tried mine with a 10.5 brushless and found it to throw the balance of the car off since the front end became much less effective. Of course, these findings all come from a blue groove race track. If you are just bashing you could probably get away with a 10.5. Anything more and it's just way too much. My own suggestion (based on experience) would be the 13.5.

X2 on that suggestion.

I have run the crap out of my stealth equipped RC10 with 17.5 and 13.5. 95% of the time the 13.5 was in it. The only problems I have had with it was stripping the spur due to loosened motor screws.

i'm glad i stumbled across this thread.

i'm pretty new to brushless. i have a 4300kv 9t ez run that i use in my bashers, it's too much for some of my cars lol.

i just got a used b4 with a novak gtb and novak 17.5. i have no clue how to program it, do gtb's use a program card or is it only programable through the set up button?
we have a new track close by thats close to being finished, they don't know what classes they are going to have other than short course trucks. the first few weeks may only be short course and a "run what you brung" class. i was concerned if the 17.5 would be enough for some of the larger doubles. from what i see here it should be fine.

so 17.5 class is like the old 27 turn stock class? (last time i raced i used a green machine....yeah it's been a while lol)

GTB's are programmed with the setup button:
http://www.teamnovak.com/download/instructions/pdfs/GTB_instr.pdf

With the B4, you should be able to gear the 17.5 high enough to give you plenty of speed to clear the jumps. The 17.5's like big pinions! I ran 28/81 in my RC10 with the 2.25:1 stealth. Final drive ratio of 6.5:1.