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Kinda like the header states...what should 'ballpark' temps be for electronics?

Say for instance...this was last weeks temps on a first run setup on my b44.
Castle Brushless ESC=240+*
castle brushless 7700 motor=188+*
Maxamps 6K lipo saddlepack=180+*

First all I realize this is too hot and this is what I was doing while reading temps with my temp gun and then while I was doublecheckin with a couple other guys guages and after cooling off for awhile it was just like Oh well...it happened. No reason getting upset after its allready done. But I'd like to get an idea what I should have for temps and like I stated...ballpark temps is close enuf to work with.
Thanx in advance...
Todd

What gearing are you running

I run my motors around 140F and the ESC 165F (LRP with Fan installed). Weird my lipo's never get hot.

Do you have any openings in the body for air flow? I know on the motor side I cut out the stearing area more and opened up all the scoops.

How long are you running? 6 min/ 10 min/ 20 min?

They say optimum gearing will net you 150-160F on the motor. I would say the ESC would be anywhere below the motor temp and be OK. The Lipos should be getting warm to the touch, but definetely not hot. The only time I hear of lipos getting some heat in them is when the pros charge at 3s. Not recommended, but it supposedly gets more voltage out of them...for a little while.... **POOF**


To get true temps on your motor, put an inch long piece of electrical tape on the can and read off of it with your temp gun.

better check that battery lipos should not get hot, warm maybe , you may have problems

That esc and battery temp seem way high. The motor should be fine, but it sounds like there’s some serious interference between the battery and esc. The motor should be way hotter than anything else. It sounds like the battery and esc just don’t like each other for some reason. I don’t have a clear answer, but it I’d try a different battery and see what your temps read.

Konich wrote:What gearing are you running

Do you have any openings in the body for air flow? I know on the motor side I cut out the stearing area more and opened up all the scoops.

How long are you running? 6 min/ 10 min/ 20 min?

I believe pinion is 19t and don't know about spur...it was on it when I got it and haven't had it apart to figure it out. I cut a few holes in the body on both sides but not very big ones. 'bout a size of a dime in the steering area and the scoops on both sides. Running about 6 minutes before I checked it. Will try to find spur size here soon...
Will try another battery as soon as I solder some ends on my other battery. Was thinkin of pickin up another reedy saddle pack at associated site before they are all gone. For $45 its kinda hard not to at that price but money just isn't on my side this week...or last week...or next week
Todd

Brandon G wrote: To get true temps on your motor, put an inch long piece of electrical tape on the can and read off of it with your temp gun.

Definitely worth a shot...I have heard of this before but never put much thought into it and I haven't really had any problems like this before.
Todd

There's something wrong, with a 19t pinion its undergeard no matter what spur your running. I would run a 7.5 Novak with a 78 spur and 24 pinion no problem.

How smooth is the driveline? That much heat it sounds like something has to be binding to be getting those temps. I don't have any experience with the castle stuff, but I've ran both Novak and LRP in my B44 and didn't have temp issues.

Konich wrote:There's something wrong, with a 19t pinion its undergeard no matter what spur your running. I would run a 7.5 Novak with a 78 spur and 24 pinion no problem.

How smooth is the driveline? That much heat it sounds like something has to be binding to be getting those temps. I don't have any experience with the castle stuff, but I've ran both Novak and LRP in my B44 and didn't have temp issues.

I think a drive train issue would yield higher motor temp than anything else. Not arguing, just seems weird that the esc and battery are so hot compared to the motor.

^Very true, it just seems weird that its undergeared with such high temps.

i would take a close look at the lipo{case separating, not hard feeling} may have been run low and be on its way out. lipos are mint if used correctly but are easily harmed

The low gearing might be the answer. It could be that the lipo and esc are becoming backed up with power(heat)because the motor is using so much less power than the esc is calling for. That 7700 has to be a beast! Just a theory…probably wrong, but with lipo/brushless power you have to re-think your old opinions.

first time I counted I had 80 on the spur...second time it was 78 so somewhere around there . When I put the spur on it was one of those things that I had one laying around and it was 'easy' at the time instead of finding out what I should put on it . Takin a trip to the LHS today and pick up a few different pinions.

For a decent offroad track with 3 big jumps and not a lot of straightaways what would you guys suggest for a pinion size? I also run on the tri-oval with it which is where I got the temps from.

This thing is a monster though even as it sits
Todd

At least a 22, keep a eye on your temps though

Went to pick up a 23 yesterday and had the last one in my hands. Of all the things a new customer was there pickin up parts and his last request was for a 23t pinion . He had money on him and alot of $ in parts he was pickin up and they wouldn't have done any good without a pinion...his was stripped. Oh well, out of 22t, 23t(now), 24t. Will have more in tuesday or so. Will pick up a 23t then. I'm sure I'll have more questions after the swap out. Thanx for all the help so far guys
Todd