RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

Time to post pics of my stuff. Here’s what’s left of my racer from 1989. I got back into RC10s after impulsively buying a nice CE on ebay last year.

The gold chassis and stealth trans are new/used from ebay as are the wheels. Regretfully, I sold my pink yokomo rims I decided not to bash on the graphite chassis and MIP diff I ran BITD. Yes, the body is cut for a JRx2. I went from a RC10 to a J2x2 and then back to RC10. I got a couple new bodies I’ll show after I cut on them some more. I hope to update this thread as I add parts to this car. New wheels and tires are on tap after a new body.

Also, shown is the nice CE I just look at.

Well, I guess you guys know how this happens. I saw a team car that i had to get for some reason. It looked like it would clean up nice. Here it is....I'll post more pics after I get it in-house and cleaned up.

Very nice! Good luck with the clean up! Post more pics when you get 'em!

Here’s the final version of this RC10. I really like the way this came together. It’s a nice combo of old school and function. It has all black plastic. The only white is the wheels. This is a general representation of what the RC10 was like when I raced them.

Parts remaining from my original RC10
One front shock body
All shock hardware, springs, spring cups collars
Bulkhead
Rear suspension blocks

Parts left from the RC10 I ran BITD
Andy’s Arms
Kyosho gold rear shocks
Tires

The rest of the car are parts I picked up on eBay or Tower Hobbies
The front tires are Schumacher two pins on Pro-line wheels. The rears are Associated TQ20s on Trinity wheels. RPM Bumper for protection. The chassis is pretty rough but straight. I had to use the associated ball cups. The RPM HD 4-40’s were too fat. I had clearance issues with the camber link and steering link. I think the ball stud placement on the old shock tower was the cause. I choose to keep the old front shock tower and use new black associated ball cups in lieu of RPMs. Worlds bellcranks with the RPM center link provides pretty tight steering. I used a Hi Tec Standard servo with a kimbrough servo saver. The rear is driven with dog bones and I put bearings in the stock twister motor. Radio is Futaba Magnum Jr FM. The whole car drives real nice. It took about 4 months to get this together. The stealth trans is an amazing upgrade and contributes to the function of this car.

These are the old school aspects I think tie the car together
2.0 wheels tires
Old Hasley inspired body
Original front shock set up
Gold chassis
4-40 threaded rod steering linkage and old style Kimbrough servo saver
Yellow Ni Cad battery (not shown in photos)
Older generation Novak ESC
Square side dams on Buds wing
Dogbones
Twister Stock motor

The ball bearing steering and stealth trans make the car drive very well.

I’m going to roll this into a little resto thread of the black pan I showed before. I have some new shots of this black pan in-house after it arrived. I don’t think it’s a Team Car as I expected. It appears to be a mix of parts. Ebay rule #1, don’t assume anything…
Dog bones, 2.2 wheels, black “C” pan, worlds nose (I think), gold motor plate, inline steering blocks, gold shocks???Weird combos IMO. I guess it’s a CE bolted to a black pan???? I assume this car was pieced together and driven hard for a short period of time.
Overall the car is not what I thought it was going to be. This car will be a runner not the higher-end restoration I had in mind. The main disappointment was the cut off portion of the rear chassis. After seeing that, I realized, I had a lot of working parts that would clean up good. It will make a good car for guests to drive. Ha-ha
So - this is now a budget restoration. It took $91 to get this car to my house. On the positive side, it came with a NiMH battery, a peak charger, nice-enough RC10 B2 body and a Futaba AM TX/RX ESC 20Turn combo. All in great working condition. The lightly-mod motor is in good condition (No label, I guess twister) and the stealth trans operates smoothly.

The resto just consisted of a total teardown and cleaning. Whitening of the nylon, shock rebuild and diff rebuild.
In addition to the $91 for the car I acquired the following items:
Shock rebuild kit $5
RPM bumper $4
Bellcranks (Servo Saver) $10
Motor Leads $3
Stealth trans thrust spring and thrust bearing $3
Aluminum 8-32 screws $3
RPM Servo mounts $2
Motor brushes $4
Wing wire $5
RPM Center link $2
Kimbrough Servo saver and Futaba 3004 $18
JConcepts Ball Cups $7
Total Cost is $157 for a fully functional setup with charger. I bought a lot of stuff that was not necessary but makes for a nicer built. It added up, gulp.
I used some of my own existing parts-front shock tower, titanium universals and front caster blocks
At this juncture, I’m half done. I need the white ball cups and stealth bushing/spring to arrive before I can finish.

well, the chassis can't be 'restored' easily, but one of the cool mods people have done is to take both sides off of the rear bend, like the broken side, and radiused it out very nicely. It looks good!!! Now....I have to find the thread that has those modd'ed chassis' to show you....

here you go...one example, the red chassis near the bottom of the page:

http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14561

Thanks for the link to bigjeeps build. I love the idea of rounding out both sides. I will make that phase II. This car may have more life in it than I thought. I should cut the back rounded motor gaurd and perhaps cut down the cahssis sides and sand/reanno. OMG so much to do!

I will take a break after I get it back together. rounding out the rear will have to wait until winter.

I'll post photos after phase I is done.

Lots of great ideas here....

I got the black pan all back together this weekend. It took a long time to get the steering, shocks and universals (from treehugger, thanks!) fitted correctly.

The JConcept ball ends were just a little too big to use on the bell cranks. They would rub the caster link ball cups when the suspension flexed. I had to use the black ACS6274 ball cups on the two outer bell crank studs. I'm using the old/original front shock tower and I think that causes the clearance problem with HD ball cups.

I tried 2/56 rod and matching ball cups for the servo to bell crank link. The 2/56 threaded rod ball cups I have were too tight on the ASC3981 ball studs. As a result, the servo would not center properly. I had to go back to 4/40 rod with ASC6274 ball cups there too.

The shocks needed a down travel stop to keep the universals in the out drives. I just put a piece of fuel line on the shock shaft to keep it from going allthe way down. I enjoyed getting it just right.

I also had to replace the slipper. Lucky for me I had an extra. The slipper that came on the car was very slightly bent. I could not tell by looking at it but the spur had a wobble in it until I switched it out. The funny thing is that the slipper that came with the car is bigger than the regular stealth slipper. Other than being slightly bent, it fit on the stealth trans well. Does anyone know what other slipper it could have been? A pic is in my post above.

When I took it out for a test drive I realized I had a problem with the esc/motor combo. I'm using the Futaba 20 turn esc and motor that came with the car. The motor is modified and obviously lower than a 20 turn. It caused the ESC to shut down due to heat. I put in an old stock Twister I borrowed from another buggy and it ran great. So I have a Reedy 27t MVP on the way for this car. In retrospect, I should have upgraded the ESC instead of downgrading the motor but it's a done deal and saved about $30.

I'll post pics after I get the MVP in.

Peace

Looks like a B3/T3 slipper

Well, I'm still waiting for the stock MVP I need for the 20turn esc that came with this black pan. There was a problem with customs and it went back to the sender. It was being sent from England.

In the meantime, I decided I really need a new esc. The Futaba 220 is just too weak and I don't want this to just be a stocker. I want to be able to run hot motors. I'm watching a Novak GT7 on ebay. I must have it

It's interesting to me how these cars evlove into their final versions. Current plans are for a esc and eventually a nice retro body. Then a new servo, new steering bellcranks, rear a arms, front castor blocks, wheels, tires, OMG I can't stop...Luckly, I already have most those parts. The fun part for me is putting it all together and getting it to look and function just right.

I'll try to post pics of the currrent status later tonight.

It's slow at work so I thought I'd update this post as it has been a long time waiting for the motor.

All right here are the latest photos. I hope to post pics with a new ESC later.

I drove this car last weekend around the sidewalk and learned what "traction roll" is. I had never driven 2.2 rubber tires before and I promtly fliped and creased the new wing. Man, this rubber is soooo much better than the 2.0's I was used to. And these tires are a little old. Can't wait to try some actual New rubber. Wow

The car looks great. Did you paint the body? It's a fantastic job.

hey thanks

No way! I did not paint the body. It came from tecnica2001 here. It looks even better in the sunlight.

I like what I have going on with the Green/Gold/Black/White combo. The gold motor plate and gold shocks to not look too out of place on the black pan/modern body. However, I must add, I am NOT a Green Bay Packers fan. Go Bears!

Any comments/thoughts regaring the Novak GT7 I have planned for this car are welcome. My back up plan is a Novak GTX but I want the older GT7 so I'm a little more "period correct". As mentioned in another post, I missed the Novak Tempest on ebay. Keeping my fingers crossed for the GT7. It's my back up for the Tempest

Good controllers but outdated. I would put something in that will allow you to run brushless as well. If you plan on doing much driving you will not stay with the brushed motors for long unless you like tinkering with all the maintanence.

this is the final set of pics. I finally think I'm done with this black pan. This is the same one that's been in this thread. Got a body off ebay I'm real happy with and put in a Novak explorer II. I actually have a reedy MVP in it now, it hauls. The motor in the pics is an unknown turn. I had the com skimed on it and set it aside for later. The rims are 2.2 jc racing products and are a direct bolt on. If I do anything else, it will be to cut down the chassis and slam the body. But that seems like a February project at best.