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OK, so I resorted to going to a fabric store for yellow dye. Wow, score! The variety I found, a company called Dylon has a lot to chose from..3 or 4 different shades of blue too. I was going to get the lingerie whitener on the bottom, but I think my thongs are clean yes plural, but I am kidding

the yellow doesnt work very well it came out bearly noticable.

that sucks, i'll give it a go anyway.

When you dye the parts - do you boil the parts in the dye like you would if you were dying fabric ????

yup, generally! bring to a boil throw in the dye, stir a bit, reduce heat so it's not boiling and wait til you are happy with the color. Unless, the parts are thin and might disfigure, like tamiya hornet wheels

One of my other hobbies is collecting 12" inch action figures and the way I started to dye is, in the microwave, in a large glass jar. That way you can just re-boil, on high for three to four minutes, to achive the shade of color you are looking for. Plus you can keep the dye for later use. Just tryed the peroxide treatment on my vintage rc 10, turned out "GREAT" !!! So now I'm wondering if I want to try and dye some of the parts (ie; wheels, etc. !!)

and dont forget the salt i genrally put about half a pound of salt in with two packs of dye i did some shock mount s a few weeks ago i had them just under simmering for about an hour

really, SALT?

I never heard of that. What's the reason behind that?

salt works in two ways.

the first is due to the phenomenon of saturation and concentrations. Solutions want to be in equilibrium, so if you put salt in a solution, and then put something without salt it in, if it has pores or can absorb a fluid, the salt will help force the motion of the liquid due to equilibrium. solutions want to flow from high concentration to low concentration.

the same reason that sugar will dissolve in water and make the whole container sweet. with the salt in the water, the dye is carried a little better and actually deeper.

the second is that salt raises the boiling point in a ratio based on the amount of salt added. higher temp will open the pores more.

HUH, thank god I'm not a chemist instead of a geologist. I had to drop out of chemistry in university for a reason I guess

I'm definitely adding the salt for now on. And thank god there is spell check on here, I would have spelt definanitely wrong...I had to take english twice

Yeah,Good thing ya didnt get yer english from da south

rc10johnny wrote:Yeah,Good thing ya didnt get yer english from da south

Well JohnnySr, looks like you are just north enough to know. I used to live in Leesburg, VA briefly and even if you slip down to southern VA the dialect begins to change.

In fact I'll be down your way in early Sept for my father inlaw's remarriage, aka crap show from hell ...where do I slip away to a good LHS?

Have any of you guys tried Krylon Fusion for Plastic? It comes in rattle-cans and is a dye for plastic/vinyl and apparently bonds to the surface, it isn't just a spray-paint. I've used it to dye 40-year-old interior plastic & vinyl interior parts of my '70 Charger that were faded black & nasty off-white. I've been pleased with the results thus far. I don't know how it works on nylon, though...

Coelacanth wrote:Have any of you guys tried Krylon Fusion for Plastic? It comes in rattle-cans and is a dye for plastic/vinyl and apparently bonds to the surface, it isn't just a spray-paint. I've used it to dye 40-year-old interior plastic & vinyl interior parts of my '70 Charger that were faded black & nasty off-white. I've been pleased with the results thus far. I don't know how it works on nylon, though...

I was wondering the same thing after I saw the t.v. add for Krylon Fusion.

Krylon Fusion is a paint not a dye- I tried it on a RC Airplane body - all it did was flake off after it dryed. I guess it only works on certain plastics !!