RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

Hello to all,

Anybody know where to buy some #6606 bearing adapters? Can't find em anywhere and I
need for a 6-gear restoration. Any help would be mucho apprecianado.

Thanks

Associated has or had some I sent them a bag of them a while back,tell them it's in the box of stuff Johnny Sent them. JohnnySr

called RC10,John is out for foot surgery,no one ealse knows where its at?

ummm....wtf was that?

Thank you scr8p 4 the help, but the link didn't work for some reason...

works for me........

http://www.rcchopshop.com

click on the car once the page opens. on the next page, click on associated in the right column, then scroll through the pages. i think it was on page 3.

66intheSky wrote:ummm....wtf was that?

Just tryin to help! sorry for the inconvience (WTF)

I guess the webpage was down or something when I clicked the first
time, but got it now, thanks again scr8p......BTW I have a few other questions
for your parts searching prowess:

1) Whats the P/N for the white ball cups that came with the orig gold pan and where can I get some new ones
2) Is the #6653 white diff gear available still
3) And do you know anywhere to get a hold of a Nicad exactly like the one in the orig manual, with the yellow
shrink wrap installed around the 3 pre-soldered stacked cells?

I'm restoring a car to as original as possible to shelve
without buyin a NIB one for a ridiculous price.

Cheers...

1) the ball cup part numbers should be the same as the modern black ones. ebay will be your best bet to find original white ones, and be prepared to drop some coin to aquire them.

2) i'm guessing that is the 54 tooth 32p spur? that'd be another ebay item. 48 tooth spurs are easy to find, not the 54.

3) the boxart nicad will not be easy to find. i've only ever seen 2 come up for sale nip. best bet will be finding a car that has one in it. and to be honest, you have to actually "make" a boxart battery.

As oringinal as possible may end up being....

1. JConcepts white ball cups
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXRWU1&P=7

2. RJ Speed white spur gear
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXXLP1&P=7

3. Get some yellow battery shrink wrap and shrink wrap a new battery to look yellow
http://www.rcdude.com/servlet/the-1016/Heat-Shrink-Yellow--dsh-/Detail

this will be a lot quicker and cheaper.

scr8p wrote:1) the ball cup part numbers should be the same as the modern black ones. ebay will be your best bet to find original white ones, and be prepared to drop some coin to aquire them.

2) i'm guessing that is the 54 tooth 32p spur? that'd be another ebay item. 48 tooth spurs are easy to find, not the 54.

3) the boxart nicad will not be easy to find. i've only ever seen 2 come up for sale nip. best bet will be finding a car that has one in it. and to be honest, you have to actually "make" a boxart battery.

thanks guys for your reccomendations......

1) I figured as much on that, but I've only seen black ones for sale so far
2) the 54 i have actually cleaned up nicer than I thought it would, so I'm going to stick with it and try to find a better one down the road sonetime or go with a 48 since its a shelfer
3) yea I guess I'll order some cells & make a look-a-like pack one of these days......i was hoping to avoid it cause I hate to do em, but it will annoy me long-term if it doesnt look original cause
I put some other 6-cell in there

badattitude wrote:As oringinal as possible may end up being....

1. JConcepts white ball cups
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXRWU1&P=7

2. RJ Speed white spur gear
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXXLP1&P=7

3. Get some yellow battery shrink wrap and shrink wrap a new battery to look yellow
http://www.rcdude.com/servlet/the-1016/Heat-Shrink-Yellow--dsh-/Detail

this will be a lot quicker and cheaper.

1) those ball cups are pretty similar but I think I might just go with the orig ones I have

2) I had that spur in my tower wish list already just in case I can't find one in the future

3) Wouldn't I need like 1.5" width shirink to do cells that are vertically soldered, since it shrinks to about .75" and the
cells are almost an inch wide? The 3" stuff is for stick packs shrunk together, since they are about 2"
wide.


Good stuff guys thanks again
Laters

If you make it then this is what you want it to look like when you're done. By the way scr8p had the other one and it now lives next door to Fred.

3) Wouldn't I need like 1.5" width shirink to do cells that are vertically soldered, since it shrinks to about .75" and the
cells are almost an inch wide? The 3" stuff is for stick packs shrunk together, since they are about 2"
wide.

Yes, you're correct. I was thinking about wrapping the entire pack. But I see what you are talking about thanks to a01brutals pics. That same online store had a bunch of sizes. Perhaps including the ones you need.

badattitude wrote:3) Wouldn't I need like 1.5" width shirink to do cells that are vertically soldered, since it shrinks to about .75" and the
cells are almost an inch wide? The 3" stuff is for stick packs shrunk together, since they are about 2"
wide.

Yes, you're correct. I was thinking about wrapping the entire pack. But I see what you are talking about thanks to a01brutals pics. That same online store had a bunch of sizes. Perhaps including the ones you need.

Thanks for the pics a01butal! That's awesome that you have a pack NIB. I love to see stuff like that! Brings back some great memories from BITD (even though it probably is totally dead
and wouldn't hold anything if u charged it, unless you've open it and cycled it before....nonetheless it is orig). I had a bunch of Trinity Matched Cells from racin back then but they were totally spent and wouldn't hold squat after repeated cycles, so I took them to the local recycling bin.

I won't be using the old ASC connector though, as I have a NIB Novak T-1 thats goin in as a replacement to the old mechanical speed control. Other radio equipment will be my orig NER-2X (brand new condition, only used in a Corally SP12 on carpet tracks), and NIB Futaba S131SH, all FUT G. Transmitter is my FP-T2PD Magnum AM that I used to race 1/12 carpet with in the late 80's/early 90's, and it pairs well with the Novak Rx. Tamiya battery conns + ASC motor conns are "period correct" enough for me, along with an ASC stock motor from my orig kit that I never used & put away in a Kyosho motor case (I bought a 15T Twister motor with the RC10 kit back then and ran that, but I can't find it....dammit!).

badattitude, thanks again......I ordered a few smaller and larger shrink wraps from them just for future projects too.....at .95 cents a foot or whatever its too cheap to pass up.

Laters!

PS Anyone know where to get those orig SANYO labels??? JK