Need help with Turbo Ultima

[Lefty421]

Hey guys. I recently dug out my old Turbo Ultima, and I'm having a few problems that I'm hoping someone here can help me with.

I'm having issues with two things, sloppy steering (no surprise) and the right rear CVD constantly popping out when the suspension is unloaded.

To alleviate the sloppy steering, I've decide to replace the whole original steering assembly with a 3Racing aluminum steering assembly for the Lazer ZX5, but I have a few questions before I start ordering the parts. Do I need anything in addition to the 3Racing assembly to make this work? Will the 3Racing ZX5 assembly fit on the original Ultima's steering shafts, or will I need to pick up a set of ZX5 steering shafts too? Can anyone recommend a servo saver/arm setup, preferably aluminum in place of the original plastic pieces?

The second problem I'm experiencing is that the right rear CVD keeps popping out of the diff cup whenever my T. Ultima jumps, tumbles, crashes, etc... basically whenever the suspension is completely unloaded. Back in the day, before being put away for 20 yrs, I used to race it at the local carpet on-road/oval track, where I simply lowered the car, compressing the suspension and the CVD never popped out. But now that I am returning the car back to it's original off-road setup, the CVD pops out when the suspension unloads. I'm using all original OEM suspsension arms, CVD, Diff, etc... so I'm not sure what is causing this. I could understand if I was using some widened arms or something or perhaps a shorter aftermarket CVD/dogbone, but I'm not. It's all original. I've been searching the net for some longer CVD's but I haven't found any that match the same style as the original CVD's with the tapered axle and a press fit 12mm hex driver. Most/all the CVD's I see now aren't tapered and instead use a pin/screw/set screw to hold the hex driver onto the axle shaft. The problem has never happened on the left side, only the right side. Nothing is bent or out of alignment as far as I can tell. I haven't measured it yet, but it kinda looks like the cup on the right side of the diff might be a tad bit shorter than the cup on the left side, where I have no problem. It has been aprox 20 years since I've had the diff apart and I don't remember if the cups can be adjusted a bit wider via a set screw or not.

For now I've simply installed a zip-tie around the shock tower and the right rear suspension arm which limits how far the arm can travel, preventing it from unloading completely, but this of course is just a short term bandaid, not a fix.

Also, I've noticed that the original platinum shocks are leaking. Not sure if I just need some new o-rings/rebuild kit or if they should just be replaced. Where can I get rebuild parts for these vintage platinum shocks? Do any of the shocks from the newer Kyosho buggy kits bolt right up in place of the platinum shocks? Am I better of just replacing them? or fixing them?

thanks,

Lefty421

[RichieRich]

Well, amazingly, despite the name, there are many Ultima fans here.

I haven't used the aluminum parts you are talking about for the Ultima, but I know you can use the stock Lazer ZK5 plastic steering parts with the Ultima steering posts. Though, I used the ST-15 steering posts because I didn't want to dig around for the right spacers...just lazy.

As for the universals, not sure what is happening there. Do you have the shocks mounted in the correct holes? I believe they should be on the upper-most hold on the shock tower and the outer-most hole on the suspension arm. If you want, you can use the newer Kyosho CVDs so you can use a cross-pin and plastic hex.

I've never been able to get the platinum shocks to work correctly. There are like 500 seals in those shocks due to the multiple shafts and if one goes, they leak like crazy. As far as I know, you should be able to bolt on the newer Kyosho velvet shocks with no problems.

Finally, show us some pics!!!

[tamiyadan]

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[Lefty421]

Thanks for the info guys. I'll give it a good look over tonight and pull the shocks offs and see if one might be damaged. Now that you mention it, the shock on that corner seems to be leaking quite a bit, maybe it is damaged and allowing for too much travel. That brings me back to the question of where to get rebuild parts for these vintage platinum shocks?!?

As far as the pics, I'm not sure I'm ready to post those yet. At this point, my TU is pretty beat up and not all that pretty. I got it to bash/race, not just to look pretty on the shelf, LOL. Wait till I clean it up a bit before I post any pics.

As I mentioned in my first message, after the local dirt tracks all closed, I was limited to carpet racing locally, so my TU was mostly converted to on-road/oval use. I added a graphite chassis (don't remember what brand), lowered the suspension, dumped the original gear box for a Track Master Xcaliber direct drive tranny, foams all around, etc... After a couple years of racing that on the carpet, I decided to retire it and started running a 10L instead since the local off-road scene was dead at the time. The TU has been in a box ever since. It's dirty, the shocks leak, the body is busted up, and looks like it was built by a 12 yo old. Oh wait, it was! LOL

A complete tear down is coming. I'll post some pics after I get a chance to clean it up a bit. Hell, I can't even find the parts to mount the wing anymore! Pics just wouldn't do it justice at this point. :>)

Lefty421

[tamiyadan]

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[Mr. ED]

moving the lower shock position out , should help indeed. I think the inner holes on the arms are only usable with the old short red shocks.
IF you use those holes with the silver dampers the travel is just tooo much.
Also check if the shocks are the same length: the lower mount may have come a bit unscrewed and made the shock longer.

[Lefty421]

I checked how the shocks were installed last night and they are installed exactly per the manual. They are mounted in the outer most hole on the arm and the top hole on the shock tower. This setup allows for the least amount of suspension travel, and yet I'm still popping the CVD on the right side. I didn't have time to pull the shocks off and inspect/measure them yet though, so maybe it is just due to a damaged shock.

I'm thinking about going with a set of ZX5 shocks by 3Racing, which go for about $25 for a a full set (4). About a quarter the price of some new Kyosho velvet/equalizers.

The ZX5 aluminum steering assembly is on it's way, along with new wheels/tires all around.

Anybody know where I can get a set of wing post? I've lost the original wing posts somewhere along the way, and now I have no way to mount the wing.

[Mr. ED]

the original wing mount was a pain, I wouldn't bother looking for that.
I've seen some members using b4 wingmounts on their modernized rc10's. Looks easy to mount on the shocktower.
Or, if you want to stay closer to its roots: the last ultima 2 etc had a plastic spoiler mount , as seen on the triumph too.

[bdrmbully]

these should do the trick...
http://cgi.ebay.com/Vintage-Lazer-Lite-Wing-Tubes-2-Pack-Part-1054-/180540718921?cmd=ViewItem&pt=Radio_Control_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2a0910bf49

[RichieRich]

I agree that the stock wing is too cumbersome. I would go with Mr. Ed's suggestion. Much more secure.

[Lefty421]

these should do the trick...
http://cgi.ebay.com/Vintage-Lazer-Lite-Wing-Tubes-2-Pack-Part-1054-/180540718921?cmd=ViewItem&pt=Radio_Control_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2a0910bf49

Thanks a bunch. I placed a bid on them. Sure beats trying to make my own. I had already picked up a small length of 6061 tubing and was planning on cutting a couple pcs and tapping the ends myself. A few bucks for already made posts would be great. If I don't end up winning them, then I'll give my homemade ones a try, and if that fails, then I'll try the more modern plastic wing mounts.

[bdrmbully]

i think i also have a set of the plastic wing mounts as well. paypal me 8 bux and they can be yours. PM me for details if interested.

[Lefty421]

I had to order a few more parts in order to get the ZX5 steering assembly to work, so it'll be a few more days before they show up. I'm also still waiting for the new wheels/tires to show up. I did pull off the Track Master Xcaliber tranny the other night and put the original gearbox setup back on. Looks like the rear bulkhead had to be notched/trimmed/hacked in order to get the Track Master installed, so I plan on replacing that with a new/old oem peice too. I think I may already have one in my parts box though.

I pulled the platinum shocks off and just as I suspected, the rears are completely blown. I'm sure the o-rings are shot. The front shocks seem completely fine though. The only place I've been able to find o-rings for the platinum shocks are in the UK. Not sure what I'm going to do with those yet. I see Tower has some aluminum ST15 shocks available that may fit the bill also. They definately look more original than a blue set of ZX5 shocks from 3Racing, but I can't seem to find much feedback on them.

It would be nice to be able to find some wide front arms too, but I'm not holding my breath.

The work in progress continues.

[RichieRich]

Andy's wide front arms pop up on ebay once and a while. They usually go for around $20 or so. There is a guy in the UK that probably has all shock parts. I can't remember his name. I ordered some rear platinum springs from him a while back and he only charged $2 for shipping or a pound and a half...something like that. LOL!

[rangerg]

I love the look of the platinum shocks, but back when I had a Turbo Ultima I traded them for a pair of gold ones. The gold ones were/are so reliable.