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Ha ha - I was sorting out my tool box and found this....



Just rub it on & hey-presto you go quicker!!

Its actually lexan bodyshell polish & works rather well - it was just one of the things I aquired (used to get given stuff old stuff if it had been hanging around for a long time) when I worked in a model shop many years ago

Paragon used to make it as well - came in a two-sided container, 1/2 wax, the other half body cleaner.

Amazing how plain ol' rubbing compound gets re-branded as so many different niche products costing far more.

Coelacanth wrote:Amazing how plain ol' rubbing compound gets re-branded as so many different niche products costing far more.

Lexan/plastic polish and "plain ol' rubbing compound" is the same thing?

Yup. I polish my acrylic hockey visors when they get scuffed up using plain ol' rubbing compound. It's the same procedure to polish the clearcoat on an automotive finish. Hazing and scuff marks can be removed (or at least improved) using rubbing compound. I also like Nu-Finish Scratch Doctor (works by exactly the same principle, very fine grit polish).

Coelacanth wrote:Yup. I polish my acrylic hockey visors when they get scuffed up using plain ol' rubbing compound. It's the same procedure to polish the clearcoat on an automotive finish. Hazing and scuff marks can be removed (or at least improved) using rubbing compound. I also like Nu-Finish Scratch Doctor (works by exactly the same principle, very fine grit polish).

If you say so, and maybe you're not familiar with these products because they're not repackaged plain ol' rubbing compound - I just know I've scratched plastics and lenses with rubbing compound, and as a result always have followed dad's rule: "Use the right tool, or right substance, for the job and you'll never be disappointed. Use the wrong thing, and you have nobody to blame but yourself."

not all "rubbing compounds" are created equal. they have coarse, fine, and everything in between. we have a minimum of 8 different rubbing compounds in scr8p's shop alone. then all of the swirl removers, final polishes and glazes, etc.

scr8p wrote:not all "rubbing compounds" are created equal. they have coarse, fine, and everything in between. we have a minimum of 8 different rubbing compounds in scr8p's shop alone. then all of the swirl removers, final polishes and glazes, etc.

Of course not, I was just referring to "plain ol' rubbing compound."

realoldschooldude wrote:Paragon used to make it as well - came in a two-sided container, 1/2 wax, the other half body cleaner.

Yep! It was called Slipstream or something like that.

realoldschooldude wrote:

Coelacanth wrote:Yup. I polish my acrylic hockey visors when they get scuffed up using plain ol' rubbing compound. It's the same procedure to polish the clearcoat on an automotive finish. Hazing and scuff marks can be removed (or at least improved) using rubbing compound. I also like Nu-Finish Scratch Doctor (works by exactly the same principle, very fine grit polish).

If you say so, and maybe you're not familiar with these products because they're not repackaged plain ol' rubbing compound - I just know I've scratched plastics and lenses with rubbing compound, and as a result always have followed dad's rule: "Use the right tool, or right substance, for the job and you'll never be disappointed. Use the wrong thing, and you have nobody to blame but yourself."

Oh, I'm plenty familiar with all the various aftermarket polishing materials, including the several levels of grit of Novus, probably the most well-known expensive niche-product, not to mention wet-sanding. Plain ol' 3M Rubbing Compound was an integral step in the rejuvenation of some 70's smoke acrylic Ludwig Vistalite concert toms I recently restored. The process is similar for lexan, automotive clear-coat, drum lacquer/wrap finishes, or polishing aluminum or copper, or any other metal for that matter. The only thing that differs is the starting grit. They all end up the same way, by increasingly stepping up the grit fine-ness until you reach the rubbing compound & polishing stages.

http://www.drumforum.org/index.php?/topic/31387-70s-smoke-vistalite-concert-toms-project/

Coelacanth wrote:

realoldschooldude wrote:

Coelacanth wrote:Yup. I polish my acrylic hockey visors when they get scuffed up using plain ol' rubbing compound. It's the same procedure to polish the clearcoat on an automotive finish. Hazing and scuff marks can be removed (or at least improved) using rubbing compound. I also like Nu-Finish Scratch Doctor (works by exactly the same principle, very fine grit polish).

If you say so, and maybe you're not familiar with these products because they're not repackaged plain ol' rubbing compound - I just know I've scratched plastics and lenses with rubbing compound, and as a result always have followed dad's rule: "Use the right tool, or right substance, for the job and you'll never be disappointed. Use the wrong thing, and you have nobody to blame but yourself."

Oh, I'm plenty familiar with all the various aftermarket polishing materials, including the several levels of grit of Novus, probably the most well-known expensive niche-product, not to mention wet-sanding. Plain ol' 3M Rubbing Compound was an integral step in the rejuvenation of some 70's smoke acrylic Ludwig Vistalite concert toms I recently restored. The process is similar for lexan, automotive clear-coat, drum lacquer/wrap finishes, or polishing aluminum or copper, or any other metal for that matter. The only thing that differs is the starting grit. They all end up the same way, by increasingly stepping up the grit fine-ness until you reach the rubbing compound & polishing stages.

http://www.drumforum.org/index.php?/topic/31387-70s-smoke-vistalite-concert-toms-project/

Somewhere early on here it appears you missed the point, and showed your unfamiliarity with the product being discussed - as it was a lexan polish, plain ol' lexan polish. No grit, no steps, no stages, no compound. Plain and simple thinner than water liquid polish, nothing more, nothing less.

call-911 wrote:

realoldschooldude wrote:Paragon used to make it as well - came in a two-sided container, 1/2 wax, the other half body cleaner.

Yep! It was called Slipstream or something like that.

THAT'S IT

Polish, by it's very definition, typically involves abrasives. Anything less would simply be a cleaner, in my books.

http://metals.about.com/library/bldef-Polishing.htm

At any rate, elsewhere on this forum, I saw that you 'got into it' with klavy69 in a rather disrespectful manner, even calling him "kid". You might be surprised to learn some of us are at least as "realoldschool" as you, and know what we're talking about.

Coelacanth wrote:Polish, by it's very definition, typically involves abrasives. Anything less would simply be a cleaner, in my books.

http://metals.about.com/library/bldef-Polishing.htm

At any rate, elsewhere on this forum, I saw that you 'got into it' with klavy69 in a rather disrespectful manner, even calling him "kid". You might be surprised to learn some of us are at least as "realoldschool" as you, and know what we're talking about.

Give me a break, and give it a rest.
The discussion was done.
If you're going to start lecturing, please save it for klavy69 who was suggesting ripping off the manufacturer and leave us future buyers to pay for his dumb idea and illegitimate warranty claims.

If you too aren't familiar with the product this thread is about, please leave it to those of us that are familiar. Had you been you would have found no reason to say anything. Otherwise I don't need any talking to like you're my mother, my wife, or my boss.


Either way, allow the OP's thread to be back ON-TOPIC.

Why do things always have to denigrate down to a pissing match? Do you guys really need to argue with this childish display of " I'm right, no I'm right". Come on man really?
Jim