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I am finishing up my RC10CE driver project and realized none of my batteries fit. Anyone have a LIPO that fits this set up? I am thinking a soft case would do it but I'd rather stay hard case for Lipo if possible. Or at least a decent 6 cell NIMH, mine are 5000maH, perhaps smaller maH would make it happen but I don't have one to compare?

This one fits

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=8357

I think this one does too. I just ordered one for my champ edition. I'll guess I'll find out soon enough. Its 5mm shorter on the length and 3mm smaller on the hight

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=11598

Batteries have not fit in that space since the 1200SC yellow labels. In fact, those holes weren't even put there for a longitudinal battery cup—they were put there for the resistor speed control as an optional location.

For any and all batteries after 1986 or so, you had to drill new holes in the center of the chassis for the larger batteries. Ironically, the batteries we all used got increasingly larger, rendering each successive new mount location for that front cup useless. Later RC10s did have better holes drilled for a longitudinal battery mount, but none of them will fit contemporary NiMh round cells or any LiPo pack.




You have to drill and countersink new holes if you want any pack to fit properly today.

....that's right I did have to redrill my chassis. My Turnigy 5000 still didn't fit but I have the 30c-40c version I think its a little bigger.

Well that stinks. But this chassis is not perfect so I suppose I could drill. How about a custom 6 cell hump pack instead? Or I may come up with a custom velcro strap too. Hmmmm?

Everything needed to be re-drilled, period. Stick packs with the wires out the ends were the worst. Outside of making a 6-cell pack where one cell was higher than the others, there really isn't much option. That layout was never designed into the original RC10, so that's why those holes in the chassis aren't even in the centerline of the car.

Re-drill them, give yourself an extra .125-.200" of space and use a strip of foam in one of the ends to take up the extra space. That way, most every battery option out there will fit properly.

Oke doke, it is so close too as these pics show. I feel like if that hardcare was not on the Lipo it would fit. Oh well

What I did was pushed my battery box all the way forward till its almost touching the servo mount. That way I was able to make a new set of holes instead of one elongated hole. And like what Rouge said just take up the slack with a little piece of foam.

Seems to me the answer is a new molded battery box that keeps the screw locations where they are and just adds that distance to the box. Hmmmm, dremel and plastic welder and I smell a project.

Or cut the end of an old box out and make a battery stop. Ive seen them cut like this /-\

Yes, I have a few of those cut ones that came with various lots, but I think I will try this for something different. After I fail I can always break out the drill

Operation longer stock looking battery cup is in progress. This chassis while not perfect is my best and I could not bring a drill to it. And I was bored at 5AM this morning. I might go crazy when all is done, with a little plastic filler, fine sanding, mix up a paint color that matches the nylon and I am pretty sure I can get this to where you'd never know if you didn't know so to speak.

That's really nice, I like it. I think I will attempt this with my build as I was worried that these modern batteries weren't going to fit.

I took some small zip ties and made some loops out of them - pushed them through the chassis from the bottom (i.e. loops where the batter cup screws are) - used them to anchor a velco strap from a laptop power cord - works perfect and will hold down pretty much any shape battery.

That battery-cup mod is awesome, retains the vintage look and updates it for the modern tech! If it's starting to get that close to the servo mount maybe another non-chassis-drill option could be to drill sideways into the servo-mount post (through the back of the cup)? If you started with servo tape under the battery cup it might be strong enough?