RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

Hello all. I'm new to this forum, but I have been reading it the last few weeks. I have read were a few guys are using t4 c hubs for a wider stance on the truck. Well, I have a 10t and would like to do the same. Mine has RPM arms front and rear. I have the new c hubs, but the hinge and king pins seem to be to large a diameter. What is the fix?

Drill the T4 hubs, axles, and castor blocks to 1/8"- also if you are changing the rear over (FTT4.1) then you need to also run the T4 CVA not the CVD

Charlie don't surf wrote:Drill the T4 hubs, axles, and castor blocks to 1/8"- also if you are changing the rear over (FTT4.1) then you need to also run the T4 CVA not the CVD

Thank you

Sorry if this question is dunb or done to death... what part am I drilling? Where the hinge pins go? Also, can I use the same length hinge pins?

I'm looking to do this for my T2 also.

Thanks a lot.

Yup, the hinge pins-

I personally would never put a chub on a 10t. It goes against my ethical and moral values.

there are far better places to put a chub, that's for sure.

I knew this would deteriorate the minute I saw the title...

Who's sporting a chubb T?

I might be, but it's so cold here right now I can't tell.

Syracuse is good for that!

RedScampi wrote:I know this would deteriorate the minute I saw the title...

I had to debate to even open the thread up and read it

Todd

RedScampi wrote:I know this would deteriorate the minute I saw the title...

Now what would possibly make you think that a bunch of grown men obsessed with toy cars would be immature about something like this?

What degree castor blocks should one use for a T2? 30, 20 degree?

How would one measurement affect handling over the other?

Thanks

welcome ljh501, as you can see everyone is fairly easy going.

are you talking the measurement of the chub? Sorry, I couldn't resist. I know, you mean the 20 or 30 degree difference. I'm not a racer, but maybe one of the other guys will chime in.