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Can someone please help me with what i have here...

This afternoon I picked up a box of RC10's (three of them) and aright off the bat I noticed one was much lighter gold than the other two.

I'm wondering if this chassis is an Edinger???? and If so what's the worth or should I build it up as my vintage racer?

I'm looking towards what one of you guys might do if you can across it.

Out of the three chassis's the one on the left is the lightest and has an A stamped on the bottom and the top of the rear, the one in the middle has a C stamped in it, looks to be top only. and the one on the right also has an A stamped on the top and bottom. Like I said the one on the left is the lightest followed by the one on the right and the middle is the richest gold color.

My apologies for the grainy pictures, the wife is out with friends and has the good camera, i'll try and take more pictures with the better camera and post them, also i'll include the parts once I go through them and clean them a little.

Worth is subjective. The best place to search is ebay for going prices. It is hard to say if it is early or not. Every one of my 10's is a different shade. I also have one stamped on the top and bottom. I think it was just a wierd thing in production. Since none of them are in really good condition I would build it up and let it continue to live on for what it was made for.

Jealous...I need another tub. Did you check out the thread on the 25 years of the RC10? Some good reading there that will shed some light. But agree with the other post. I think some cars were made on monday mornings and friday afternoons.

I'll gladly send you one, i know I wont have the funds to build up all three.

I know the middle one is cut for the stealth and the other two have the 6 gear on them so I'll probably work up the middle one first.

Hard to tell as anodizing can vary and even fade over time.
The one on the left does look lighter, but the one way to tell if you got an early or mid edinger RC10 will be to grab the shocks, pull the shaft and piston out so you can see the piston and see if you got square notched pistons (a square cutout in the round shock piston. If they have round holes you might have a mid or late edinger.
Also open the transmission up and see if you got two large e-clips holding the posts that the gears mount to on the aluminum plate within the 6-gear transmissions. Two e-clips (one top and one bottom) were on the earliest RC10 transmissions.
Here is a good pic showing both large e-clips on the posts, (ignore the small e-clip laying next to the gear).


Also check the rear shocks, for the lower spring cup and see if they look like the ones pictured here, with the large very old spring cup:


The small clues could tell you more or less where your car sits on the date tree.
Hope this helps, but the best source is the 25 years thread.

Thanks Ruffy, you may not know it but I've learned a lot from you over the past week on here, you're a wealth of knowledge dude!

look ruffy, when you take pictures for the forum could you clean up after yourself? i know you love these edingers, but that mess you left inside that tub is just ridiculous.

littleVETTE wrote:


look ruffy, when you take pictures for the forum could you clean up after yourself? i know you love these edingers, but that mess you left inside that tub is just ridiculous.

LOL if i had that car i would get that excited to

Paul

Crazy question, simple green SHOULD be fine on the nylon plastic parts right???

HI!... I have found the CLR kitchen/bathroom cleaner works very well at cleaning the RC-10's plastic parts. Don't forget the H/P/UV light trick to whiten up all the white plastic parts.

Simple green usually cleans them up very nicely, that's all I have been using since the late 80's.

If you find you want to whiten the parts, just do the Sun/Hydrogen Peroxide treatment found on these forums. With good sunlight takes about 1 day for my parts 99.9% of the time, with UV light I think it takes a bit more.

I'm in Tampa so sunlight is plentiful lol

And the reason i was asking is because I cleaned my diff cases this morning and set them out on my deck. I forgot where I put them and noticed some white gunk in my utility sink and I thought i melted them lol

I used the normal CLR before realizing that I should have used the CLR Kitchen/Bath cleaner. I must say none of the parts melted or appear damaged, they became very very clean! I did the Hydro Peroxide trick too but should have done the parts separate to gauge if they really did whiten...cause they look as bright as they did when they came out of the CLR bath.

HI!... I've done all 3 set-ups.

- Clean in CLR K&B only.
- Clean in CLR K&B and then Hydrogen Peroxide and sunlight. (3-5 days)
- Clean in CLR K&B and then Hydrogen Peroxide and a true U/V light. (3-5 days)


For myself I found that the 3rd ones works the best and got my parts the whitest.