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I took some time off from my hobbies for the last 4 months or so. I still trolled the board though But now that things have calmed down I decided to find out what that diff noise was in my RC10 Runner. I ended up needing a new diff. Now I'm 99% sure the reason my last two diffs have failed is because I over tightened the thrust bolt. So this time I made sure to follow the Directions and tighten down only until the spring fully collapsed and then backed off 1/4". My question is, If I spin one wheel should the other will stay still or only move when I spin the wheel slowly? To me this feels too loose but I don't want to over-tighten my diff again

Loosen the 5/64 screw only 1/8 turn, at 1/4 your diff was slipping excessively and damaged itself-
also I strongly recommend sanding the diff rings until they are flat in both sides so you have a good surface to start with

What motor are you using? The new brushless motors don't have enough resistance to hold the spur gear and the motor will turn while you turn the wheel. If you hold the spur the other wheel should turn in the opposite direction. As mentioned above you just don't want the slippage. I usually have my T/B4's set so that on a high bite surface, the slipper slips for about a foot with full throttle launches. Make sure your slipper is the "shock absorber" for your transmission by having it set correctly.

I am running a brushless... I didn't even pay attention if the spur was spinning or not I'll have to check it out when I get home from work today.

Reggie: are you saying 1/4 turn is too much regardless?

Thanks for the help,
James

Basic diff setup must be done outside the car as you build it... The AE method stresses the screw too much as it puts it under full tension first, then it also damages the rings and balls. Rather than screwing all the way then backin up X % of a turn, check the diff as you tighten it. put two allen drivers in the outdrives and check how much blood there's on your fingertips if you try to turn the main gear while the outdrives can't turn, ie make it slip;) basically a 2wd should be set where it requires a substantial amount of torque to make it slip in your hands.

The stealth diff is the best diff in the business with the xray diff - period

Hope this helps

metallicats33 wrote:Reggie: are you saying 1/4 turn is too much regardless?

James

yes he is.

Yeah, 1/4 turn out is too much- and I kinda agree with the collapsing the spring post but I feel that if you go past full lock and are still trying to tighten, then the
metalurgic gods have wrath on you anyway

are you putting enough diff lube in the holes of your diff gear? also, as you're tigtening the bolt down do it a little at a time and turn both sides of the diff. this way you get all the balls lubed and turning. you'll get better diff feel that way. like butter. and don't tighten the bolt down to the point where you're struggling to tighten it. just stop once you feel it.

always use a set of diff/thrust balls from the same package. don't mix match them from used ones and new ones. or new ones from another package and another set from other package. you'll get an ugly diff.

do you also have all your thrust balls within your diff thrust washers? i've gotten some ill feeling diffs because one ball was missing from the diff thrust assembly.