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Been having problems recently with paint lifting when I pull of the masking tape. I have been using Parma faskolor sealer and I'm wondering if the glue affect has something to do with it. I may have let it dry too long before I removed the tape. Ive also read if you use a hair dryer and get it too hot it can happen.

Whats better letting it dry completely overnight, or pulling the tape as soon as possible? I'm also shooting the paint pretty thick, I can thin it down and scuff the lexan a little to help.

Use multiple, thinner coats and let dry between coats

teman wrote:Use multiple, thinner coats and let dry between coats

Use MANY, many thin coats. You're laying it down too thick. Also, make sure you are washing the body with dish soap before painting. Release lubes used in the vacuum process can make paint adhesion sketchy.

I washed it. But this is Only the second time I've used the sealer. It peeled up like glue. Are there any tricks to using that? I did lay it On a little thick, and had a lot of layers. 3 or 4 colors on top of each other. Is it better once you mess up to let it sit over night or will that make it worse?

Unless you are using it on a nitro car, you don't really need a sealer of any kind. I find it is kind of rubbery when fresh, and even when force dried. The sealer takes at least 12-24 hours to cure, or at least not feel tacky. I don't like it, and I only really use it if I am painting a helmet and need to seal between colors and masking jobs to keep the previous layer clean. I reduce it usually 1:1, as well.

On an R/C car—especially an electric one—it's a waste of time.



You definitely don't need a lot of coats of it, though. It's just adding weight and difficulty with masking.

I sealed it just to keep anything from rubbing through it. All my other tape peeled off fine. But after I sealed it. I blow dried it and pulled off the window masks. That's when I had my problem. I think next time I'll be more careful with it. Or just use a little. I dusted it then laid it on kinda thick.

Rub through will happen no matter what. You can use a small piece of clear packing tape in spots that contact chassis parts if you want to keep the contact abrasions to a minimum on the inside of the paint.

Yeah I've done that. But I usually find out where it rubs after I've damaged the paint. Thanks for the tips.