RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

Hi Everyone,I recently aquired 2 RC10 gold pan cars with boxes 1 is a #6016 and the other a #6020 ,now from what I've come to understand the 6016 is a ball bearing equiped version of the 6020 don't know how true this but im am definitly addicted to the rc10 ,I've had a rc10 3 and love it but I never knew they had a site dedicated to the RC10 alone thats awesome I am a member of other rc sites but this is great so hopefully someone can help me with my cars ,I have a few questions I have not been able to clear up on my own so Im hoping you guy's can help .First of all both pans are A stamp pans but 1 is a darker color gold and the other a lighter tint ,I only have 1 manual which is dated to 1984 it looks as if the cars have had parts swaped around between the two but some of the parts aer aftermaeket upgrades like the steering lnkage that is bright orange wth an aluminum bar lnking it all together ,but the a-arms are diff. between the two as well one has the bulky a-arms seen on most Rc10's but the other is more modern but clearly a factory part as I have seen them on cars on ebay as well,My goal is to restore both cars to the correct era they are from any help from you guy's will be greatly appreciated .Thanks Pic wll be posted as soon as i find out how thanks again

I think they both started out with the bulky, short arms, and the one with the wide arms was upgraded. A light gold chassis indicates a rare, early Edinger, and a dark gold chassis is a later Edinger or a Cadillac. The wide arms were standard equipment on the later Championship Edition model. See the "First 25 Years" thread."
The steering rack is a common upgrade, the stocker's somewhat weak.

After talking to many people regarding the colour of the chassis's I have reached the conclusion that the various tint's of gold are due to the grade of aluminium and the length of "dip" I can only assume that early chassis's (pale gold) are slightly different grade to the later darker chassis, however I am more than happy to be corrected on this from anyone who works in the Anodising Industry.

Hope all goes well with the restoration.

Just to chime in with my $.02, while the early cars my have had lighter gold chassis, I have a "C" stamp that is very pale gold. I think different runs came out different no matter what time or kit they were in. I have seen new, out of the box parts where the motor plate, front plate, chassis, shocks, etc were different combinations of gold. Many people assume that these cars were pieced together.

anodizing is hard to control for consistency because of three items:

-the length of time anodized and the current settings(more current-less time to get to specific depth of coating), also depends on part shape(surface area)
-the length of time in color bath
-the type, temperature and concentration of color bath.

most parts to be matched would have been in large batches and run at the same time. I'm sure associated did not do their own anodizing, so the vendor probably had some leeway in consistency.

Could this mean that the generally accepted idea that light gold= early Edinger, dark gold= later car could be incorrect?!

i just acquired an antique RC10, found out the pinion gear inside the transmission has one broken gear ( the plastic gear). This RC10 has the standard transmission ( 6 gears inside).

By all means, i have no idea this is the original, champ, world car or what so ever. How do i know what car i have? Do all these edition of rc10 share or interchange their transmission? or they are different animal under the same name only the arms might fit to each others?

if anyone has one or few of these plastic gears laying around, shoot me a PM.

thanks in advance.

yes, that means you get a darker gold on an earlier car, and a lighter gold on a later car. The most consistent thing to look for is inconsistency. By and large however, most of the earlier gold pans were more gold than orange.

The plastic gears are actually called idler gears. You can still buy them new, they are about $5.
The original RC10, Championship edition, and worlds car were all the same basic car with some changes. Every part is interchangeable between the 3. The original and champ are very similar. The worlds had some more significant changes. Because it has a 6 gear and a gold chassis, it is not a worlds. The worlds had a black chassis and a 3 gear transmission.
The original had narrow a arms and all white plastic. The champ had wider a arms and turnbuckles in place of the old threaded rods. Later champs had black plastic/ gold chassis. The earliest of the originals had no stamp on the chassis. Later originals had a stamps. CE cars can be found with A, AB, B, and C stamps.
I strongly recommend that you check out "The First 25 years of the RC10". That should help you positively identify your car. It is a great, if time- consuming read. I vote that Slotcarrod makes a book covering that thread!

how many types of transmission team associated manufacture to fit in rc10? ( stealth and the 6 gear transmission and what else?)

base on manual in team associate web page i need 6620 and 6621 or do they have something different?

6 gear and 2.25 stealth. that's it.

these are the gears you need:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-TEAM-ASSOCIATED-RC10-BLACK-IDLE-GEARS-6614-/221017793639