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OK, so I am back into the scene after 20 years, or so... Stealth transmission to grease, or not to grease? I always greased my 6 gears back in the day with lithium grease, I was a kid I don't know if I was suppose to or not. Now I read with the stealth not to grease it.

I owned 1 stealth trans I ran about 10 times back then, until two moths ago or so, now I don't know what to do.

I am a mechanic by trade, it seems very odd to me not to lubricate moving parts. So who greases who does not, why and why not and if so what do you use?

G

The gears don't need grease.

Every single second hand RC10 I've picked up has had some sort of grease/lube on the gears. I'm always afraid to open the transmission case. Amateurs.

RichieRich wrote:Every single second hand RC10 I've picked up has had some sort of grease/lube on the gears. I'm always afraid to open the transmission case. Amateurs.

Yeah I just spent some time degreasing a 6 gear yesterday. Sometimes they are pretty nasty.

So don't grease the gears, because it will contaminate the ball diff... How about with the new stealth with the gear diff?

for a while i was coating my inner gears with aero-car super speed gear lube. it was a teflon lube. i lightly coated the gears with the applicator and let them dry. once dry the tranny would spin a little better.

the instructions for my steel idler gear for my GT instructed me to apply a generous amount of grease to the gears.

The Robinson hardened steel idler and and the factory self lubricating plastic pieces are two different animals- and if you run the Hard Anodized diff gear and the steel idler then you need to apply grease as you have 3 metal gears that all have different hardness ( 1 non hardened steel, 1 hardened steel and one hard anodized Aluminum ) otherwise they will begin to eat into the topshaft first and then the main gear-


Also, I have torn down lots of other guys transmissions to find grease inside that is just old stealth diff lube that was applied to heavily and then was spun out during running and coated the insides.

Charlie don't surf wrote:The Robinson hardened steel idler and and the factory self lubricating plastic pieces are two different animals- and if you run the Hard Anodized diff gear and the steel idler then you need to apply grease as you have 3 metal gears that all have different hardness ( 1 non hardened steel, 1 hardened steel and one hard anodized Aluminum ) otherwise they will begin to eat into the topshaft first and then the main gear-


Also, I have torn down lots of other guys transmissions to find grease inside that is just old stealth diff lube that was applied to heavily and then was spun out during running and coated the insides.

after i rebuild my stealth diffs i have a old case, and top shaft i use to spin the diff with the dremel it does ozze a tiny bit which i then dispatch with motor cleaner and a lint free cloth .
then when the diff looks sweet back to the nicely cleaned case

Paul

I used to break my gears in with a slave case and locked diff, pack it full of cheap gel toothpaste and run it at 20k rpm for three 10 minute intervals. That and full ceramic bearings, carbide diff and thrust balls and sanded and preped diff rings and thrust rings and there wasn't a smoother longer lasting trans in my race area-

No grease on any diff gears, ever.... unless, like Reg said, all 3 of them are metal.

Interesting inputs guys. I like the break it in with tooth paste idea, just to get all the factory flashing and such off the gears? Great input everyone I do appreciate it. G

littleVETTE wrote:for a while i was coating my inner gears with aero-car super speed gear lube. it was a teflon lube. i lightly coated the gears with the applicator and let them dry. once dry the tranny would spin a little better.

Ditto. I've ran the Aero-Car lube in my Stealth and XX trannies when I raced carpet oval. I still have a container of the stuff and used it in the Stealth of my runner RC10.

gjeeper04 wrote:Interesting inputs guys. I like the break it in with tooth paste idea, just to get all the factory flashing and such off the gears? Great input everyone I do appreciate it. G

Factory flashing QC is good on the AE parts, but toothpaste is nothing more than a silica based polishing compound so it smoothed the parts and help remove molding imperfections etc-

Areo lube? Was that the teflon stuff that once the liquid carrier evaporated it was supposed to leave a silky coating on the parts?