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I bought the 4 pole 5700kv sidewinder to run record speeds in a 10lss. I ran a 4200nimh 6 cell with 78/22,23 gearing and saw no problems. I jumped up to a 78/27 and broke the 60mph with no problems (initially).

10 minutes into the run the system shut down at 195 degrees. I did the unthinkable and continued to run high speed blasts and the system shut down at the end of each run. I can verify the fail-safe works perfectly.

60mph from an rc car is pretty damn cool, no doubt. I thought for sure the fun would last at least 30 minutes in one of the lightest 1/10 rc cars in the world... WRONG!!! I will try the same gearing with 3300 + 6 cell batteries next.

I will obviously need to run a lower kv motor in the jammin scrt10. I would appreciate any gearing insight as the truck is something I know absolutely nothing about.

I'm not real fond of the sidewinder at all, you might try sticking a fan on it and see how it does. I have seen a few of them with the castle blowers zip tied to them.

BL gearing is kind of trial and error, the temp method is the most reliable. No more than 180f somewhere in the 135-50 range is optimum, too cold go up a tooth etc.

Have you tried 64 pitch or is that setup too powerful? I tried 64 recently and my motor seems to run cooler.

I would use 160*F as a max safe motor temp. If you go much above this, you can cause physical harm inside the motor. They are far too expensive to damage! Get a smaller pinion on there.

teman wrote:Have you tried 64 pitch or is that setup too powerful? I tried 64 recently and my motor seems to run cooler.

Teman, I always ran 48 in parking lots due to debris. Today my friend ran 64 in the same lot and had no problems so I may swap out. 78/25 is a good setup for the pan car with the sidewinder. His modified 10l and 10t brushed with batmobile body offered up some awesome oval racing. I did see much longer run times, cooler batteries and no overheating.

fredswain wrote:I would use 160*F as a max safe motor temp. If you go much above this, you can cause physical harm inside the motor. They are far too expensive to damage! Get a smaller pinion on there.

I forgot the temp gauge today

Charlie don't surf wrote:BL gearing is kind of trial and error, the temp method is the most reliable. No more than 180f somewhere in the 135-50 range is optimum, too cold go up a tooth etc.

Thanks for the temp info. I know it shuts down at 195

knucklebuster wrote: Teman, I always ran 48 in parking lots due to debris. Today my friend ran 64 in the same lot and had no problems so I may swap out. 78/25 is a good setup for the pan car with the sidewinder. His modified 10l and 10t brushed with batmobile body offered up some awesome oval racing. I did see much longer run times, cooler batteries and no overheating.

Me too! Only recently I started playing with 64, glad to hear no more overheating I've had no problems so far with dirt etc, just with spinning the pinion off LOL
-Kevin

http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-off-road/526539-castle-sidewinder-sv2-1406-neu-4-pole-4600kv.html

that link has some interesting information on the cogging problem

Rootdown4594 wrote:http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-off-road/526539-castle-sidewinder-sv2-1406-neu-4-pole-4600kv.html

that link has some interesting information on the cogging problem

Thanks for the info Rootdown. I was able to overcome the cogging and other interference problems by swapping transmitters. I switched back to my older Japanese Mag Jr. when I realized interference occurred even when I touched the pots on the "newer" transmitter. The pots on the older Jr. are brass, newer are plastic.

I hope the previous shutdowns were a result of increased temps due to interference, glitching and cogging more than the reasonable 78/27 gearing. I plan to step up pinions to the same combo that overheated before. I am running in a parking lot, not a prepared track. Too much power and the car breaks loose. All that to say I am not running the car into the ground. This system would surely burn up in a heavier rc10 running through high traction mud or grass! 78-81/16-18 gearing for the rc10, 78/23 in the pan car to avoid a melt down. Am I expecting too much of a $100 combo???

No wonder my car began to push after a few huge 50+mph ovals... rears have some life left I better pick up a few liters of soda for the track!

fredswain wrote:I would use 160*F as a max safe motor temp. If you go much above this, you can cause physical harm inside the motor. They are far too expensive to damage! Get a smaller pinion on there.

You are correct sir! Houston, we have a problem. Previous overheating caused the rotor to rub and it now sounds similar to a card in a bike spoke. Still runs like a scalded dog, literally. I will see what Castle has to say about it.

The newer Mag Jr only overcame the cogging issues when bench testing. The problems continued at the track when starting from a stop. The motor actually reverses for a split second when starting from a stop although reverse lockout is set. It sounds mad and cogs the gears whether you go full or feather the throttle from a standstill.

This does not appear to cause overheating issues as the temps remained low at around 150-60 on the motor, 130 on the esc. I did not check the temp when cogging, only after running packs through.

I swapped out the 4 pole 5700 with a friends cm36 4600 and was able to add a few teeth without any temp increase. In fact, the temp dropped about 10-15 degrees.

You're sure your batteries are good enough to run with brushless? Brushless pulls a lot more juice than brushed and your batteries might not be able to deliver enough to complete the run.