RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

Greetings All!

I've been lurking on this forum for a while, and wanted to finally post up. Info on this site got my stealth trans running like a Gazelle about to be ate. It was assembled backwards!

My brother had this car as a child, built from the kit. I've looked over some of the manual from the disscontinued section of the AE website, as well as rc10 wiki. I'm trying to indentify the car. I have no manual / box. All my borther told me is he did the stealth upgrade, and it had dog bones that he changed to CVD. The original trans is sitting in peices in a sealed cup, it was never run at all. It has an A stamp on the motor mount area.

The car is mine to do as I please as he never really liked RC hobby. I used to run it a bit when I had a RC10T, but I exited the hobby back in 2000.

I'm thinking of putting a sidewinder brushless in it. Right now it has a Tekin Rebel and Slot Machine II 27T motor. No brake, fwd only works.

Pics!
It has an A chassis stamp. Apparently he didn't counter sink the trans mounting holes for the stealth. I've since fixed that.


Original Spur & Pinion






Tires i found in a box

Awesome!! It's worth about 6 bucks-

That car started life as an early RC10 CE - still has the 4 hole (on each side) front shock tower.
Try to straighten out that chassis (front & rear) and be sure to run it with the proper front aluminum nose (strength) tubes.

Seven bucks with the early front shock tower

I'm in for ten bucks

RC10resto wrote:That car started life as an early RC10 CE - still has the 4 hole (on each side) front shock tower.
Try to straighten out that chassis (front & rear) and be sure to run it with the proper front aluminum nose (strength) tubes.

Thanks for the tips. You can really see the bend when just the stealth was in, looking from front to back haha. The front nose plate strengthing tubes had a hell of a bend in them, one sadly broke during tear down. I saw a link around here for black ones IIRC. I need to get some.

I just did some reading on the tires i found in the box that are put together with the allen key screws. I think the rubber is original to this model.

I think the rubber is original to this model.

Yes they are

You can order new black tubes at Tower Hobbies.

Its only worth what someones willing to pay. There isn't a price guide for RC10's and the market fluctuates enough that a ball park figure is even hard to give. For that reason and others is why the "Whats it worth?" question is frowned upon on here.

Here are the rules for reference: http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=54&t=154

Yea I defo missed that first go around. The history, quality, and fun of this car makes it priceless to me. I'm enjoying learning all about it. I'm treating it like I was the original owner, because my brother only used it like twice as a Kid, I was the one running it around with my RC10T as a teen.

I'm thinking of replacing as many parts as I can with the later black parts, and keeping all the white for collectability as I enjoy running it at the local tracks (haven't run it since I broke the nose braces). I'm kinda scared to break stuff after reading this forum. Last night i found the antenna mount, extra battery trays, and the case to the 6gear.

Just ordered nose tubes, some battery straps, and 81tooth black spur.

I was like you - scared of breaking the old stuff (and I have broken a front A arm, and front shock tower since I made the switch to brushless )

My suggestion is to buy a couple of clean 'parts cars' from ebay or other places. I was able to get enough spare parts that I ended up building up a whole second car for my son and a shelf queen, with tons of parts left over. The challenge obviously is just time and money!

Good luck - I've found this place to be invaluable and the knowledge base is better than anything else I've seen.

I wouldn't be too scared to run it. It seems like they made a bajillion of the things including all the parts. The question of whats the rarest this or that is always brought up but I don't think anyones ever asked whats the least rare vintage R/C yet. My vote would be for the RC10.

Anyone know a good FDR range to shoot for on a 15T motor?

My friend at the hobby shop dumped a few of these HPI Firebolt 15T brushed motors on me. I've searched here, and google like mad, everything is brushless these days. I checked the HPI site for general motor data as well, and boy was that a dead end. So i looked at the stadium truck the motor comes in, and they are setup with an 11.91 FDR. One forum for 15T say 8.5 to 9.0. I know how to compute the FDR, i'm at 10.72 right now (2.25 stealth, 81s / 17p).

Higher gearing is more top speed, and lower more torque right?

the firebolt 15T motor leaves a lot to be desired, you may be better off with the Slot Machine that is in there for now. 17/81 seems a touch low, even for the stock motor, I would venture into the 19-21 range on either motor.

also...check the firebolt for fitment, IIRC, the front bushing area of the motor is too large to fit through the RC10 motor plate - making it useless to you without some grinding.