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Just want to share and ask your suggestion as well

Nothing to do during the last holiday (Hari Raya)
So I decided to remove an old paint in one body shell.

The body shell, even the wind shield was painted in black color. The previous owner tried to scratch it to remove the paint but did not finish and gave it to me.

Since this is my first time, I did what the guy suggested on the You Tube and used Dot 4 brake fluid (do this, do that and etc.)

Here is the result, a cloudy body shell. I don’t know what I did wrong. My first trial failed




Any suggestions, on how to make this thing work?

I think that is what happens any time you strip lexan paint. was the paint on the inside? If you reapply paint on the inside, you'll get a slightly hazy finish, but it will still be painted, and probably look OK.

the body is already shot, you have nothing to lose, so shooting it with some paint to see how it looks is your best bet. Looks like you will have to use some tint or black on the windows again though.

ive used nitro fuel, like for RC buggies, doesnt haze plastic at all, but little late for that now lol. u could try and buff plastic but probably will take more time than its worth.

I had a similar experience trying to remove fairly fresh paint from a body where everything was bleeding under the 3M Fine Line tape or pulling up the tape pulled paint up too. It was hopeless, and I did everything I could to prep it properly. I tried both nitro fuel and DOT4 brake fluid to remove the paint, both of which everyone claimed didn't cause hazing...well, you can see the results.

I figured wtf, I'll paint it anyway as it would be my first time using liquid mask. It actually turned out alright, it'll be good enough as a basher body, and the practice will come in handy when it's time to paint a fresh new body. The body actually looks better than the pic my cam took, I'll have to take another pic in the sunlight once it's trimmed and mounted.

As far as suggestions go: I'd give the inside a thorough rub-down with a Scotch-Brite pad or steel wool and paint it up anyway. You might end up with something not half-bad and still worthy as a basher body.

Whether the brake fluid will leave you with a good result depends a lot on the paint that was used in the first place.
I have had the same result as yours with one body and a perfect result with another (that was painted on the outside).

Some paints like pactra use a disolvent which bites into the lexan. This makes it easy as you don't have to be so carefull in preparing the lexan. And you have a very strong paint that 'll never chip. But no chance to ever remove it cleanly.

On the other hand you have the other paints which don't bite. Usually you can tell by the way some paint is chipped away in a tight corner or where the body got crushed into. The brake fluid does a great job on these.
I soaked a cloth in the stuff, poored some into a plastic bag and put the body covered with the cloth inside the bag. Closed it off and les than 12 hours later the paint came off easily.

EDIT: I had a different brand brake fluid, don't know if that makes a difference

I've found that paint removal is a tricky process and there is no "one size fits all" method. The quality of the end result is determined by how the three main variables (type of paint applied, the grade of Lexan used for the body and the removal solvent) interact with each other. For example, I've had some bodies turn hazy with brake fluid and some turn out crystal clear. Also, some paints (usually hydrocarbon based like Pactra) chemically bond to the lexan and the removal solvent's process of breaking that bond creates the haze. At the same time, some lexan grades will haze right away, even without paint. I've taken some paint off with just Castrol Super Clean. I guess experimenting and testing small spots first is the best thing to do.

The last 2 posts are bang-on. There are many kinds of paint out there, and the better a particular paint sticks, the more trouble you'll have to remove it. Pactra will be very difficult to remove because it actually etches into the Lexan when you spray it on.

I've read that when using nitro fuel to remove lexan paint, the percentage of nitro or however it's measured determines how harsh it is on the lexan.

You guys are making me want to try the brake fluid method on my old Andy's LX-T body.

In my experience removing paint hasn't been worth it if the body is replacable for a reasonable price. It's messy, time consuming and invariably I've been unhappy with the outcome. I've had everything from haze to embrittlement
Now if you're stripping an irreplacable shell it may well be worth the effort.

Use sand paper that is very very smooth to inside of Your Lazer body, something like 1000. I used that to new bodies to make the lexan paint to stuck better and not to peel off after crash etc. After sanding, the body should look like Coelacanth Optima's back, cloudy. Then just paint it. Paint will invade to that just a bit rough surface, but since lexan's other side is smooth and bright, the result will be the same, but paint will stand better.

Jirka

There are numerous threads on this subject if you do a search.

I've also read on here that Testors makes this stuff: http://www.testors.com/product/69364/F542143/_/ELO_Paint_%26_Decal_Remove_8oz But never tried it myself.

As some of you have mentioned nothing to lose since the body shell is in worst condition. I will just paint and learn from it.

My first idea is to paint the body shell in white color, and buy decal to hide the whiteness.



(pic having white background for illustration )

But, maybe due to my frustration to the result, I don’t want to spend a single cent out of my pocket and just use what materials and paint I have which is green and neon red spray can.

To create a simple design I used masking tape and bond paper (art paper) for my preferred shape and paste it to the body shell (a cheap cake idea).




(pics showing the design intent)

Green paint applied

2nd paint applied