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Ok, i really don't run anything i have, with the exception of one or two crawlers i have. With all the Old/New runners being built for this years VONATS i wanted to start building a few runners for next years event lol.

I plan to build two or three Old/New RC10's, One looks like it will be a shelfer but the other two will be a runners. Im still waiting on parts for all of them, I have everything on order to complete two of them, The third might be a little different. All will be base from a RC10T chassis, One of the chassis im going to turn is actually a new built truck (This will be the shelfer, cant bring myself to chop the chassis down )

I have a couple questions to start this build(s) off,

* The RC10T has a longer wheelbase, What will the effect be if i built the Old/New RC10 with the longer wheelbase (I know it will be longer), How would that impact racing it on a track, any pros or cons?

* Original RC10T shocks (Gold shocks), Are they acceptable for racing? should i get team shocks or newer threaded shocks.

* What is a good budget Brushless ESC/Motor combo, What turn for racing on a VONATS type track


Ok here is a start on the shelf build, Id like to trim the nose down and trim the sides of the chassis, I just cant bring myself to cut on a new chassis set lol.

You can shorten the wheelbase by using the other set of holes in the nose plate to connect to the chassis. I think you may need different nose brace tubes, or cut down those. I think a buggy run w/ that long truck wheelbase will be a bulldozer - i.e. push horribly.
Great looking start though!

I'm not sure how much longer the truck chassis is, but longer chassis cars seems to be popular these days. At the worlds all the B4s were lengthened 8mm and the new Losi 22 is longer too. It makes the car a little easier to drive but can take away some responsiveness on smaller tracks.

What turn motor are you looking to run? Stock or mod, if it's mod are you looking for enough speed or crazy pass everyone on the straight speed?

I'm thinking from 17.5 - 13.5 depending one what is allowed. As long as the 249 can handle a 13.5 I think it can hold a 17.5. - might build one long and one short. Then when I get them on a track I can see how they do. I will cut the nose tubes and leave both sets of holes so I can chang with just a tube swap.

As a rule the gold shocks start to get rough fast with use from the inside out as the anno wears off quick inside. I would and do use the v2 threaded on my runners, or hard anno older ones. The longer chassis setup has been integrated on the 4.1's but will generally make the 10 very very slow to react in the turns, combine that with the RPM style setup and I think that you would have an ok large fast track performer, but a very dull and numb tight course race car. I would avoid it-

As a race car I would also say you would want a race system too. For example, the trinity d3 17.5 and an lrp sxx is way faster unboosted than any ezrun thing out there. Better punch, low temps and better life too.

The stealth tranny can handle most anything as long as you aren't slamming it around. The new ReVtech motors are awesome, the 17.5 and 13.5 motors are both powerhouses. Combine that with a LRP SXX if you aren't running boost or a Tekin RS if you are. The Tekin has the best boost functions while the LRP is silky smooth.

You can usually find nice LRP esc's for under $100 and the ReVtech motor should be $75 new.

I am up here running at this years Vonats and you want a shorter chassis. the track is tight. the Jrx2's are doing very well with their short wheel base. just a thought. and you will have to run 17.5

Thanks guys, I think i will attempt to cut the tubes down today, I will look around to get a LRP and 17.5 motor, I hope to be able to add to this thread soon (Note to self: never order parts from philshobbyshop), Shipping time has much to be desired...

seth556 wrote:The stealth tranny can handle most anything as long as you aren't slamming it around. The new ReVtech motors are awesome, the 17.5 and 13.5 motors are both powerhouses. Combine that with a LRP SXX if you aren't running boost or a Tekin RS if you are. The Tekin has the best boost functions while the LRP is silky smooth.

You can usually find nice LRP esc's for under $100 and the ReVtech motor should be $75 new.

What is boost? Yeah im a noob to all the electronics nowadays lol, I have not found a LRP SXX ESC for below around 200?

Looking good William! Are they the Kline arms? What screw set are you using? I likes all 'dem shiny screws!

Used under $100, must clarify that.

Boost is where as your motor is going through the RPM range the esc adjusts the timing of the motor. Less timing adds more torque while more degrees of timing increases speed. So it starts lower and as you go you'll have more speed. Then Turbo is at the top of the range the esc will increase the timing even more for an added kick of speed. Turbo is kinda useless on smaller tracks but on outdoor tracks with a long straight, it's nice to have. A lot of tracks don't allow boost in the stock class since it really kicks up the speed and makes the difference between stock and mod smaller. The rules will dictate whether you want boost or not.

Also every time I see this thread I forget to say how much I love the green and black, looks awesome.

mrhemi1971 wrote:Looking good William! Are they the Kline arms? What screw set are you using? I likes all 'dem shiny screws!

Thanks, They are the Klein arms, I'm using RcScrewz Stainless screws and Axial cone washers (I know stainless is not the lighted screw around but i got enough screws for 4 or 5 builds for about 50 bucks.

seth556 wrote:Used under $100, must clarify that.

Boost is where as your motor is going through the RPM range the esc adjusts the timing of the motor. Less timing adds more torque while more degrees of timing increases speed. So it starts lower and as you go you'll have more speed. Then Turbo is at the top of the range the esc will increase the timing even more for an added kick of speed. Turbo is kinda useless on smaller tracks but on outdoor tracks with a long straight, it's nice to have. A lot of tracks don't allow boost in the stock class since it really kicks up the speed and makes the difference between stock and mod smaller. The rules will dictate whether you want boost or not.

Also every time I see this thread I forget to say how much I love the green and black, looks awesome.

Thanks , That helps a lot lol, I hope to bring the green into the body as well, Green is my favorite color, I have not seen anyone use the green washers yet.

William, if you need help with those nose tubes, let me know. Still have enough TI material to make a set of these. If you want standard aluimun, I can get that knocked out for you too. Or you can send them to me and i can fix the length for you.

Let me know if there is anything else you are looking to do. I will help out as much as possible.

Phils Hobby shipped slow to me too.

bigjeepzz wrote:William, if you need help with those nose tubes, let me know. Still have enough TI material to make a set of these. If you want standard aluimun, I can get that knocked out for you too. Or you can send them to me and i can fix the length for you.

Let me know if there is anything else you are looking to do. I will help out as much as possible.

Phils Hobby shipped slow to me too.

You got a PM, Thanks Jake