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I'm getting the parts together that I need to transform my regular fiberglass RC10L into an upgraded, graphite, brushless speed car with a box art Nissan body. I found a NIP vintage Composite Craft chassis and my plan was to transfer everything over and get a couple of other Composite Craft pieces to complete the transformation. I ran into a few issues though and my on-road knowledge is limited. I wanted to get an upgraded front suspension for it but the chassis I bought has a different layout than the original chassis and I'm unsure of my options. I've included pics of them side by side. Can anyone help me identify which front ends will work on this chassis? I also attempted to attach the rear pod I have onto the CC chassis and realized the fiberglass chassis had a bigger notch cut out of it to accommodate the offset t-bar. I've seen t-bar's that weren't offset and also rear pods that are smaller than the one I've got. I'm open to suggestions on what parts I need to complete this project. Also, what should I expect to pay for one of the Nissan box art bodies unpainted? Thanks in advance for your replies.

Your glass car was an original wide nose road course car and your CC is a later super speedway roundy round set-up.

So the CC chassis will need a RC10LSS rear pod and front suspension? Should I just restore the fiberglass car and try to find a LSS parts car with a trashed chassis? Is there a way to bring the fiberglass back to life? It's not in that bad a shape. It has some scratches on it and needs a good de-gunking.

The manual is on this page here:
http://teamassociated.com/manuals/RC10L/
The chassis parts are pretty easy to get, it's the white parts are kind of rare - if you don't mind black parts it will be quite easier.
Maybe some one on here has some new old stock they might pass along to you? Make a list and post it in BST - good luck!
-Kevin

The Fiberglass car is very capable, I used one when I first started racing Pro-10 (235mm 6 cell pan car) in Europe.

Thank you everyone for your replies. Are the motor plate and the left side pod plate interchangeable between the 10L and 10LSS or are they completely different?

unclemikey1978 wrote:Thank you everyone for your replies. Are the motor plate and the left side pod plate interchangeable between the 10L and 10LSS or are they completely different?

Yes they are, meaning the RC10L and the RC10L SS / Oval car. The only versions from Associated that are different are the later cars (RC10L2 etc.) they use a Top brace for the rear pod that is held on via 3 screws, and the left bulkhead has only one scew hole on top. This all is easily identified in that these components from the newer cars are all the black carbon based moldings.

- so in short, the RC10L Bulkheads on the older cars are interchangeable.

Ok great, that means I don't have to buy them to make this transformation.

I've decided to make two cars and have purchased most of the parts for both. The fiberglass chassis is in pretty good shape but is scratched up a bit. What is the availability of a new fiberglass chassis? I've been looking around but I haven't seen one yet. Is it possible to restore the chassis I have?

I just picked up a carbon based 10l and will be following your thread, it needs some fixing up.

unclemikey1978 wrote:I've decided to make two cars and have purchased most of the parts for both. The fiberglass chassis is in pretty good shape but is scratched up a bit. What is the availability of a new fiberglass chassis? I've been looking around but I haven't seen one yet. Is it possible to restore the chassis I have?

You can clean it up really well with a brush and soap, if the scratches are not too deep you can sand it, but you should use a sanding block, so that you sand evenly and flat (take your time). If these scratches are fairly deep you may be able to get them really clean and fill them with CA. New Fiberglass chassis are fairly rare to be found. Also watch out that you do not tweak the chassis, or that it is not already tweaked. Prior to cleaning or sanding check it out and make sure its perfectly flat (use an edge of a steel ruler or level) and check the chassis from corner to corner, side to side and front to back. Also check it periodically if you are sanding it. If your chassis is tweaked, its going to be a pain to setup. Also watch out for the two holes that mount the T-Bar, they should be round and not oval, if they are oval (more than likely from side to side) your car will not hold its setup, and in an accident or bump your T-Bar can shift. This will cause the car to "Dog Leg". You can also prep the edges on the Fiberglass chassis just like you would prepare the edge of a carbon chassis to prevent further damage.