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Can anyone tell me about the V2 shocks. Are they significantly better than the V1 shocks?

Are they $17 a pair better? I really like the screw on seal cap but I am not sure that it is worth the extra cash considering how often I change the shock seals(never).

I will be using these on a RC10 runner for my LHS summer series.

They are a good deal better all around, also that $17 difference should include the gold shafts and aluminum lower bushings ( the reason for the hike in $$ ) the body prices are the same- the new bottom loading body uses 2 0-rings as a seal, no spacers or bushings and they are super easy, plus the bleeder caps are super user friendly.

V1 FT shocks already used unobtainium shafts and lower alum ball joint
V2 bottom loading cartridges still use a spacer

Main advantage of V2 vs. V1 is ZERO risk of the snap rings snapping by itself.

Side advantage is bleeder caps... but they can be bought separately for $6 a set.

V2s are better. Does it justify $17 a pair? If you're racing and you've already had shocks emptying themselves as the snap ring let loose during a main, likely yes. Otherwise, no.

Paul

just because http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJRX6&P=7 and http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXZWJ6&P=7 i

OK the FT threaded ones are the same price as the V2's. Good to know.

I was looking at these ones.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX2584&P=7

I am starting to lean towards the V2. I am sparing no expense on this build so why start with the shocks.

I just read a write up on the V2 shocks in rccaraction. You can run the shocks several ways. You can use a bladder in the cap and bleed the shocks through the bottom loading cartridge like a losi shock or run without a bladder and bleed through the bleedsr screw in the shock cap. By using the latter method you don't have the preload like with bladder type shocks. The team drivers are running only one o ring in the cartridges instead of two. There's less restriction but they leak a little bit. Just enough to need the fluid changed after every race day.

FYI I have been watching ebay for v2s. Most of the auction bids are for around 22-25$ every now and then are up for buy it now at $30 a pair. Much cheaper than tower.

Nick

Edit- quick search - http://www.ebay.com/itm/Team-Associated-V2-Threaded-Shocks-B4-1-ASC7474-ASC7478-Full-Set-Brand-New-/120824875464?pt=Radio_Control_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c21b949c8

vwjuice wrote:I just read a write up on the V2 shocks in rccaraction. You can run the shocks several ways. You can use a bladder in the cap and bleed the shocks through the bottom loading cartridge like a losi shock or run without a bladder and bleed through the bleedsr screw in the shock cap. By using the latter method you don't have the preload like with bladder type shocks. The team drivers are running only one o ring in the cartridges instead of two. There's less restriction but they leak a little bit. Just enough to need the fluid changed after every race day.

1- you CAN run a bladder... but the car(s) feel(s) like sh!t. I've tried, on V1's already and on v2's again (just to be sure). You don't need to bleed from the bottom, you just have to bleed with the bladder without the cap. No bladder offers enough "volume" to accomodate the shaft in full compression.

2- if you just run one o-ring, shocks will feel funny as the shaft moves without friction first and then when the o-ring and spacer hit the top/bottom (Depending which direction the shaft moves in) then there will be friction. you'd need to compensate with another spacer. I'd also think than running just one o-ring doesn't provide enough "guiding" to the shaft. The spacers aren't here to guide the shaft but to hold both o-rings to do so...

3- when you race seriously, you need to rebuild your shocks more than every raceday... every run or every couple of runs sounds more like it. Emulsion shocks require more rebuilds than CV shocks... it's just physics

Don't blindly trust RCCA... there's a reason why they're still around, and it certainly isn't because their tech writing makes sense

Paul

Lonestar wrote:

vwjuice wrote:I just read a write up on the V2 shocks in rccaraction. You can run the shocks several ways. You can use a bladder in the cap and bleed the shocks through the bottom loading cartridge like a losi shock or run without a bladder and bleed through the bleedsr screw in the shock cap. By using the latter method you don't have the preload like with bladder type shocks. The team drivers are running only one o ring in the cartridges instead of two. There's less restriction but they leak a little bit. Just enough to need the fluid changed after every race day.

1- you CAN run a bladder... but the car(s) feel(s) like sh!t. I've tried, on V1's already and on v2's again (just to be sure). You don't need to bleed from the bottom, you just have to bleed with the bladder without the cap. No bladder offers enough "volume" to accomodate the shaft in full compression.

2- if you just run one o-ring, shocks will feel funny as the shaft moves without friction first and then when the o-ring and spacer hit the top/bottom (Depending which direction the shaft moves in) then there will be friction. you'd need to compensate with another spacer. I'd also think than running just one o-ring doesn't provide enough "guiding" to the shaft. The spacers aren't here to guide the shaft but to hold both o-rings to do so...

3- when you race seriously, you need to rebuild your shocks more than every raceday... every run or every couple of runs sounds more like it. Emulsion shocks require more rebuilds than CV shocks... it's just physics

Don't blindly trust RCCA... there's a reason why they're still around, and it certainly isn't because their tech writing makes sense

Paul

You stated the shocks dont "feel" good with the bladders in them, can you elaborate on this? I've seen a number of people move away from running bladders lately in favor of an "emulsion" shock and for the life of me cant figure out how this would be an advantage. I'm doing so in my 22 right now but will be going back to bladders at the next rebuild.

On race days, I typically run 1 practice pack for any last minute setup changes (up to 3 if I'm at a new track and need to make significant changes to the car) and the the quals/main. I dont hit the big races but I am competitive in expert mod buggy and typically rebuild the shocks every other race day (typically twice a week). If you were running a single o-ring, I could see needing to do it more often.

Lonestar wrote:

vwjuice wrote:I just read a write up on the V2 shocks in rccaraction. You can run the shocks several ways. You can use a bladder in the cap and bleed the shocks through the bottom loading cartridge like a losi shock or run without a bladder and bleed through the bleedsr screw in the shock cap. By using the latter method you don't have the preload like with bladder type shocks. The team drivers are running only one o ring in the cartridges instead of two. There's less restriction but they leak a little bit. Just enough to need the fluid changed after every race day.

1- you CAN run a bladder... but the car(s) feel(s) like sh!t. I've tried, on V1's already and on v2's again (just to be sure). You don't need to bleed from the bottom, you just have to bleed with the bladder without the cap. No bladder offers enough "volume" to accomodate the shaft in full compression.

2- if you just run one o-ring, shocks will feel funny as the shaft moves without friction first and then when the o-ring and spacer hit the top/bottom (Depending which direction the shaft moves in) then there will be friction. you'd need to compensate with another spacer. I'd also think than running just one o-ring doesn't provide enough "guiding" to the shaft. The spacers aren't here to guide the shaft but to hold both o-rings to do so...

3- when you race seriously, you need to rebuild your shocks more than every raceday... every run or every couple of runs sounds more like it. Emulsion shocks require more rebuilds than CV shocks... it's just physics

Don't blindly trust RCCA... there's a reason why they're still around, and it certainly isn't because their tech writing makes sense

Paul

This is good to know. I haven't tried the V2's yet, but I was looking into them for my T4 and my Blitz. I was just reading up on them from their tech thread and from Ryan Cavalieri's interview.

For club level racing, what's an accetable timeline for rebuilding them? I race 2-3 times per month so it's not that frequently.
When you say rebuild do you mean just cleaning and changing fluid or replacing the seals and spacers also?

I was shocked reading th interview that Ryan replaces all control arms, turnbuckles rod ends, replaces all shock internal parts and the shock end after every race day. That's crazy. I could never afford that.

At the club level you really only need to change the shock seals and or fluid when you feel the shock go away, ie too much air, dirty oil from seal failure etc-

As far as running a current AE plastic, I changed my suspension components every 6 races, the 4.1 plastic is so soft that I would see deviations of 2-3 degrees of deflection from the hinge pin holes enlarging and the plastic flexing (why my 7 year old now uses it).

Gone are the days (for AE anyway) of building, reaming, breaking in a car before a big race or season. The 4.1's are sporks, use it for bashing, racing, or whatever then throw it away-

Oh then I've been doing it ok. I have been rebuilding shocks if I see one leaking or if I take the spring off and they seem too soft and don't have any rebound. Usually every 6-7 races I'd guess. I rebuild my diff whenever it feels notchy at all. I agree that AE doesn't seem to be building strictly race trucks anymore. Too much emphasis on a Jack of all trades type of a truck. although my T4 has been a pretty good racer and aside from the newer shocks I don't see any need to move up into a T4.1

Reggie, these are the V2 shocks I got from you. I like visualizing crap, so here is a photo just so I can get this right. The large O-ring goes over the threads for the shock cap, the smaller one goes over the bottom thread for the bottom cap, and the black plastic bushing goes in the bottom. I got the shaft and piston now, do I put any green slime or anything on that bushing? Why don't these things come with instructions

Hey, free parts don't come with instructions

The large o-ring goes over the cap threads, then the spacer and 2 O-rings bottom loaded and screw the bottom cap on ( finger tight only ) yes, green slime the rings

But you just gave me them, so I guess they do come for free

And, just to clarify, since the number of o rings didn't add up...when you say 2 o-rings in the bottom, you mean to red o-rings. Just saying because the only o-rings included were the 4 black ones for the top and bottom caps Now any other simpleton like myself can figure it out.