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13.5 turn or 17.5 turn brushless for JRX2 upgrade?

What would you go with? Also I was thinking sensorless for my first brushless.

But a fair priced well performing ESC with reverse lockout that can do both sensor or less is what I'd be looking to buy as a long term buy . Anyone have a good recommendation new? or model to hunt on ebay for?

If I go with a sensorless brushless shouldn't i be able to control it with my older brush esc's just fine?

On a side note just to know couldn't we run a sensored motor with ANY esc as well(inc. older brushed esc's) thereby rendering it sensorless for some time period without damaging it? (or indefinitely)

I'm a big Tekin fan...so i'm looking at those but yes their prices are never dirt cheap but I think they are relatively good prices for what you get. I've been away from the hobby for awhile though.

What is a good priced modern battery charger that can charge both NiMh and Li-Po ? I want to get rid of my super old timer chargers that don't even peak detect.... I like their vintage looks but can't say i'll miss rebooting those timers!

I was looking at buying an also vintage peak detector type that would do the NiMH packs but thought it might not workout so welll to then later have to buy another charger for LiPo....so im hesitant to try to lower the clutter of multiple chargers.

BrushlessHobbies.com

Go for the 80 amp model, its awesome.

Brushed speedos cannot run anything brushless, period. Some brushless speedos can run brushed.

Go for a sensored 17.5 and gear accordingly. If you are running the LRM tranny with no slipper, this is a safe place to start.

I have the 80 amp BH speedo & a sensorless 4400kv motor (kinda equivilent to a 10.5 or 9.5) and it is crazy fast.

see here http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=27&t=23998&start=45

didnt catch the charger part, sorry

I personally like the Duratrax Onyx 230/235...no power supply needed, they charge any type of battery. Pretty easy to use and small/easy to transport. There are cheaper/more expensive models out there, but ease of use and simplicity work for me.

I won't be running without a slipper i'm trying some research on which one to go with...and what the advantage is to dual clutch slipper is. But definitely will be adding to this build one or the other not sold on hyper drive..i think it may be overly complex. Not neccessary.

Can the onyx 235 trickle charge be set to zero? I don't like trickle..I never have and I just had an old 6cell pack blow on me just now...thanks to trickle. I guess maybe that pack was on its way out tho... it really wasnt holding a charge too long at all.

Since I'll be running the slipper you think the 13.5 will work ?....altho the 17.5 will likely last longer on one charge.

either of those two setups can be raced in their own classes correct or is one more popular class than the other?(both not illegal)


I'll check on those esc's...just want them to reverse lockout in case I ever decide to join a real race.

Love your build up and run video completely awesome...anything new done lately?

License2iLL wrote:I won't be running without a slipper i'm trying some research on which one to go with...and what the advantage is to dual clutch slipper is.

If you are running the LRM tranny, find a Pro SE or LXT top shaft (also called the Hydra Drive shaft), best option out there. The dual slipper set up is common parts to current cars, ease of parts off the wall at the LHS.

License2iLL wrote:Can the onyx 235 trickle charge be set to zero? I don't like trickle..I never have and I just had an old 6cell pack blow on me just now...thanks to trickle. I guess maybe that pack was on its way out tho... it really wasnt holding a charge too long at all.

I have the 230 (before the built in balance board), I dont have trickle on anything, so I am pretty sure that answer is yes.

License2iLL wrote:Since I'll be running the slipper you think the 13.5 will work ?....altho the 17.5 will likely last longer on one charge.
either of those two setups can be raced in their own classes correct or is one more popular class than the other?(both not illegal)

Some tracks treat anything above "blinky"** 17.5 to be considered modified. Check with your local track for their rules.

I ran my buggy (even with that monster motor) without the slipper, so they arent necessary for hotter motors, but they are great insurance

License2iLL wrote:I'll check on those esc's...just want them to reverse lockout in case I ever decide to join a real race.

Yes, I use mine to race currently, reverse is locked out when you pull it from the box.

License2iLL wrote:Love your build up and run video completely awesome...anything new done lately?

Last time at the track I was having electrical gremlins attack me, car kept shutting off during the race. I've pulled all the electrics out to test them, but been running my Goldie RC10 lately, been too lazy to see what the problem could be.

**blinky**
Most modern brushless speed controls have the ability to change timing and boost the motor while you are running. Blinky refers to this process to be disabled inside the speedo and have the light "blink" for easy tech if you are running boost or not. My local tracks are blinky only, anything else is modified, even a boosted 17.5 (which done right, is pretty darn fast to be honest).

The more I use the BH speedos, the more I am impressed with them. I bought 2, was about $106 shipped to my door, got them in a couple days too. The owner bench tests every speedo, so none arrive DOA and is available to answer questions should you have them. I am very close to buying a couple more of these and put every car my son and I race on the same speedos. I just need to pick up some more motors now

Yea man I really like their prices...a lot more flexible than going with a Tekin. How long you been running those?
I tend to sometimes stick w/names that have worked for me in the past but at those prices its tough to argue and I like giving others a chance. I'm seriously considering matching their esc with a true losi 17.5 just to stay true to the brand. It'll make for a certain economical buy.

Whats a good hot ticket for a modern 2.4 radio setup?...I keep seeing these Traxxas brand 2.4 radios on ebay but not sure if they would work with different brand electronics and their plugs.

Thanks dude...you know your stuff. I can't wait to get started on tearing down and building back up this hard runner JrX2 it's actually a JRXT chassis with the 5 link setup. I don't mind it being slightly longer than my original becuz from what I dug up that is the current modern length...and I beleive the chassis width should be the same as jrX.....im just hoping the rear wheelbase width stays under 250mm..i think the rear links are a little longer in width than a Jrx but im ok with that too so long as it stays under 250mm w/tires on keeping it roar legal. A win win or so I think.

my build is on a JRXT chassis

Radios are really brand loyalty or based on price, I personally run an Airtronics M8 with Spektrum system installed. I bought my son the FlySky radio, and honestly, I really like it. If you have multiple cars, its a home run, extra receivers are only $7.

Check HobbyPartz.com for the radio & killer batteries (Gens Ace). They arent the greatest about keeping stuff in stock though.

I have a couple of the Losi brushless motors, 2-17.5 and a 13.5. I burned up the 13.5 messing with boosting (why I link blinky mode). One of the 17.5s smells funny too. Not a big fan of the motors, but they are round and get the job done.

I've been running them for about a month (I think). They are really solid and work flawlessly. Reading up more and more about them, the owner (Stan) has them assembled in china, but using components he specifies. So even though HobbyWing and Speed Passions (to name a couple) come out of the same factory, the guts are different. The software can be shared between all 3 . Don't think more money buys a better speed control, most everything comes from the same few factories in china (a couple are built elsewhere) but somehow the prices are all similar (read - high). BH has been really good about just selling them a touch above cost, no reason to rake buyers over the coals. I have been reading he has a new speedo in the works that should handle up to 4S lipo (14.4 volts) with no issues. Havent heard many more details than that. I will purchase a few more of these, there is no reason not to have every car RTR and maybe a spare

Yup flysky on it's way...i went with a GT3B....i like the look of the GT3C but i dont like having to fix the wheel button on/off problem on those. I also have 8 brand new high mah AA batt's i just bought for my Futuba Jr. That will go straight to the GT3B.....i picked up an extra rec. as well. So basically goodbye Futuba. Hello one remote to rule them ALL! I bought a GenAce 4000 mah 30c.
I got an AC680 from Thunder over the Onyx charger mostly becuz I like the all metal shell and built in fan...I have to order the temp sensor cable for it as well and the Flysky computer cable (so I can link it to the computer and fool with Virtual RC.) Hobbypartz didnt have either cables. nitrorcx has the computer but not the damm temp. sensor.

Funny you mention the BH 4S esc because I want to go with their models but I am sold on picking up a 120A which they are not in stock of and also that version is not 4S capable. I like to buy stuff that I can take with me to other projects if need be and not have to respend...so for me a 120A seems the right way to go.

I was in fact looking at this one becuz it is 4S capable(dont know if ill end up 1/8th scale later):
http://www.rcecho.com/HOBBYWING-XERUN-SCT-PRO-Blue-120A-RC-Brushless-Motor-ESC-Speed-Controller-SL249.html

Do you know ballpark when Stan is trying to debut those?....I would like to try and wait for it while I hunt down a good cheap 17.5T sensored. problem is....that shouldnt be too hard to do...

My son's flysky came with the cable, you shouldnt have to purchase it separately. I need to hit their site again, I havent seen the GTB3C yet, no need to look

Word on the street is maybe as soon as next week for the new 120A speedo.