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As I have mentioned before (different thread) I received this as a gift from my wife and kids last father's day.



Finally, have a chance to build this baby with excitement. First thing is to open the box to check if everything is ok

What inside the box?

Same as the other Tamiya car kit ,TEU-101BK ESC is included (forward and reverse speed controller).


TLU-01 LED Light Unit is also included in the kit. It is intended for the headlights and for the taillights.
In total you can use up to eight pairs of lights in this single unit .


As usual the undying 540 Silver Can Motor


For the wheels and tires, the Wrangler comes with 1.9″ gold looking mesh wheels but the stock tires are hard with less grip.


Tamiya plastic shock oil filled and front dog bones


Here are both the front and rear gear sets. The metal gears are for the differentials. The Axle Shaft


The plastic parts from A to D


The screw bags and tools.


The chassis. Like all CC01 kits, the Wrangler features a plastic injection molded tub style chassis.
The first thing I've checked was the battery location. The battery holder was designed to accept a rounded shotgun style lipo/NiMh.
A standard hard case Lipo cannot be used without modification in the chassis.


Tamiya hard body shells of Wrangler body is a killer.


I like all the small details of door handles, hinges, and etc.


Here are some of the additional body parts.
The rear “tire cover” and various other pieces for the body.


Tamiya included a nice set of decals, with a beautiful detailed graphics .
Just wondering about CR-01 wordings, hmmm?

Aside from the parts mentioned above, the following are additional parts I intend to use to replace the plastic and other parts.

Hobby-smart
18pcs Rubber Sealed Ball Bearing

GPM Racing Products
Alloy Motor Plate
Alloy Center Gear Box
Alloy Steering Assembly
Alloy Lig King Pin
Alloy Front Upper Suspension Arm
Alloy Front Lower Suspension Arm
Alloy C Hub
Steel Front Universal Shaft
Nylon Front Ball Top Damper
Nylon Rear Ball Top Damper


Junfac
4-Link Suspension Conversion
Skid Plate
Front Skid Plate
Rear Skid Plate
1.9 VR01 Beadlock Wheels

Not a recommended Online Shop (shipping so slow)
1.9 Pit Bull Extreme Tires

Local Hobby Shop
Stainless Screw
Turnbuckles
Hitec HS-5646WP Servo
Traxxas Waterproof Receiver Box
Tamiya CR Tuned Motor 35T

Some scale objects
Crawler winch
Luggage Carrier with LED
others

Start Building

I have read the manual thoroughly before I started arranging the parts accordingly.


The bearings to replace the bushing included in the kit , The stainless screws to replace the Tamiya's screws and the Marine Grease

The Motor

Comparison between the stock motor and CR Tuned


Tamiya plastic and the GPM motor Guard.


The GPM motor guard serve not for a bling-bling but to help with heat disbursement coming from the motor.

Tamiya included the cup spacer to set the right offset of the pinion.


With the help of this spacer, installing the pinion is like putting an icing on your cake,

The Front Differential.



I can't remember which forum I read that when you locked the front diff, it will dramatically increase your turning radius.

I do not know if I do it right by putting "Blu Tack (re-usable adhesive)" or I over kill it.

I also applied Marine Grease to prevent the mud/water seepage and to avoid corrosion .

i've never known locking a front diff to "increase" your turning radius.

scr8p wrote:i've never known locking a front diff to "increase" your turning radius.

Hey !!! You Need the State of Texas to turn around if you lock the diff....

Bo Wallen wrote:

scr8p wrote:i've never known locking a front diff to "increase" your turning radius.

Hey !!! You Need the State of Texas to turn around if you lock the diff....

I'm clueless also

Tamiya's CC-01 steering link has not actually weird but has different configuration.
Users complain about the small turning radius of the kit. Some claimed that when they locked the front differential the turning radius increase.
We will never know until we try it.

The reason I used Blu Tack is to be able to removed it if not working without damaging the gear and the plastic body .

Perhaps someone who have experience with this car can enlighten me with this theory

Gear Assembly


Spur Gear
Counter Gear
Drive Gear


Marine Grease applied to all bearings and opening

Drive Gear
Front Diff. (KIV)
Counter Gear
Spur Gear


Gear and Motor laid

after the pictorial, I applied Team Associated Black Grease to the Gears

plastic cover






Drive Gear



with GPM Center Gear Box

This build is going to be epic.

Why gun metal GPM parts and not black?

Nice, build so far... I love Tamiya kits!

Cool build! I'd like to get one of these one day and add all the Junfac options.

I have one of those CR Tuned 35T motors in my CR-01 crawler and it was a major improvement over the stock silver can.

Unless the steering is unconventional, locking the front diff will definitely decrease your turning radius. But the traction you'll gain will make up for it.

One weak point I've found in my CR-01 are the side bevel gears in the axles. They're made of a soft powdered metal and the steel axles tend to wear out the splines in the gears. Tamiya makes hardened ones, but they're about $25 per axle.

You're choosing to use marine grease & black grease in different areas...I know marine grease is often the lube of choice for diffs, but I'm wondering why you're applying which lube where? I.e., marine grease for plastic-on-metal, black grease for plastic-on-plastic? Just wondering, thanks.

EvolutionRevolution wrote:This build is going to be epic.

Why gun metal GPM parts and not black?

Ouch, you are not the only one who mentioned that
When I buy the GPM parts, only the gun metal has a complete set. This will be my runner in one month or so you will never know what color is it .

uniquenamehere wrote:Nice, build so far... I love Tamiya kits!

Thanks

LTO_Dave wrote:Cool build! I'd like to get one of these one day and add all the Junfac options.

I have one of those CR Tuned 35T motors in my CR-01 crawler and it was a major improvement over the stock silver can.

Unless the steering is unconventional, locking the front diff will definitely decrease your turning radius. But the traction you'll gain will make up for it.

One weak point I've found in my CR-01 are the side bevel gears in the axles. They're made of a soft powdered metal and the steel axles tend to wear out the splines in the gears. Tamiya makes hardened ones, but they're about $25 per axle.

As I thought about locking of the front diff,
If I want to play aggressive, I installed front spool in my touring car. I think same logic with this one.

Coelacanth wrote:You're choosing to use marine grease & black grease in different areas...I know marine grease is often the lube of choice for diffs, but I'm wondering why you're applying which lube where? I.e., marine grease for plastic-on-metal, black grease for plastic-on-plastic? Just wondering, thanks.

This is my first time using the Marine Grease. One thing I can say, it was "messy".

Basically I used Associated Black Grease to the gears and Associated Diff Lube to the ball diff of my touring car.

In this application, I only applied Marine grease to all the bearings to waterproof it and all possible areas that water can pass through. Black Grease for all the gears.

As we speak, I've took photo of the Drive Gear with black grease applied to replace the photo of the Drive Gear shown above.