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Still waiting for AE to get on with the B5, I was looking at the Kyosho RB6 specs and they've stretched the buggy to 295mm which is 10mm longer that the B4.1 worlds car. Doesn't sound like a big deal, but that's 5mm longer than the T4.1 and way narrower-

Anyway, had a couple parts laying around and built a B4.1 with the "T" chassis which is now 290mm. Going to try it Wed with a hot 13.5 on a dusty S/C specific track with a fast layout, we'll see what happens- next to my 10 racer already in the LWB settings and a shot of the body that everyone loves so much

Charlie don't surf wrote:Still waiting for AE to get on with the B5, I was looking at the Kyosho RB6 specs and they've stretched the buggy to 295mm which is 10mm longer that the B4.1 worlds car. Doesn't sound like a big deal, but that's 5mm longer than the T4.1 and way narrower-

Anyway, had a couple parts laying around and built a B4.1 with the "T" chassis which is now 290mm. Going to try it Wed with a hot 13.5 on a dusty S/C specific track with a fast layout, we'll see what happens-

IMAG1888.jpg

next to my 10 racer already in the LWB settings and a shot of the body that everyone loves so much

IMAG1896.jpg

Sir. 1. Are You going with ultralight LiPo's ?
2. Did you turnaround the gearbox ?
I got 292 mm WB. and i still can get it turn crazy.

Every time I see those bodies I think back to the Parma Shark body. The original cab forward abortion....I mean body. LoL

Seems like we are on this endless loop of "change". Cab forward will die eventually, but never fear- it will be reborn many times again

Bo Wallen wrote:

Charlie don't surf wrote:Still waiting for AE to get on with the B5, I was looking at the Kyosho RB6 specs and they've stretched the buggy to 295mm which is 10mm longer that the B4.1 worlds car. Doesn't sound like a big deal, but that's 5mm longer than the T4.1 and way narrower-

Anyway, had a couple parts laying around and built a B4.1 with the "T" chassis which is now 290mm. Going to try it Wed with a hot 13.5 on a dusty S/C specific track with a fast layout, we'll see what happens-

IMAG1888.jpg

next to my 10 racer already in the LWB settings and a shot of the body that everyone loves so much

IMAG1896.jpg

Sir. 1. Are You going with ultralight LiPo's ?
2. Did you turnaround the gearbox ?
I got 292 mm WB. and i still can get it turn crazy.

Staying in rear motor, ultralight as in a shorty pack?

My first assumption is that it would be a pig, but maybe it'll work on that track.. If it's not a tight layout any advantage gained in stability over stretched out jumps could be good.. Good luck w/ it Reg'.

i ran a t4 chassis for a while on a big track with huge jumps and it was great, a little slow on rotation but managable. when i went indoors is when it truly became a pig and couldn't rotate to save it's arse.

gomachv wrote:Every time I see those bodies I think back to the Parma Shark body. The original cab forward abortion....I mean body. LoL

Seems like we are on this endless loop of "change". Cab forward will die eventually, but never fear- it will be reborn many times again

I always think of the old Hirobo Alien Mid and the Kyosho Salute. Yuck.

But, I do wanna know if this extra 10 mm helps out.

Reg, you will find that it works just fine. It may even work better at your local track since it seems like traction is at a premium there most of the time. We ran this set up in late 2010 and early 2011 before we started sawing chassis in half. The car drove like a warm fuzzy blanket. The problem was that the warm fuzzy blanket is so comfortable that it's not exciting. That's when we started cutting them down to make them a little more "edgy".

Now, something we haven't ever released to anyone...... We took a T4 chassis and shaped it like a 22 chassis. The length combined with the added flex of the narrower chassis made for one awesome driving machine! If AE is on top of things their new offering will be narrow like the Dex210, 22 and RB6 but with the plastic composite chassis. When Jeremy raced the one we built it was brutal on the rest of the class.

So, there's a speed secret for those who are handy with a Dremel.

I'll be working the dremel tomorrow Jeff thanks for the images.

I laid down some paint for the first time in many many years today too

looks great!

JHarris wrote:Reg, you will find that it works just fine. It may even work better at your local track since it seems like traction is at a premium there most of the time. We ran this set up in late 2010 and early 2011 before we started sawing chassis in half. The car drove like a warm fuzzy blanket. The problem was that the warm fuzzy blanket is so comfortable that it's not exciting. That's when we started cutting them down to make them a little more "edgy".

Now, something we haven't ever released to anyone...... We took a T4 chassis and shaped it like a 22 chassis. The length combined with the added flex of the narrower chassis made for one awesome driving machine! If AE is on top of things their new offering will be narrow like the Dex210, 22 and RB6 but with the plastic composite chassis. When Jeremy raced the one we built it was brutal on the rest of the class.

So, there's a speed secret for those who are handy with a Dremel.

Thanks for the information. To my knowledge, Ty Tessman is currently running a similar setup at the supernats.
I plan on hacking a truck chasis soon myself, I'm already running the esc and rx behind a shorty pack, feels great.
EDIT: heres a pic;

interesting car... vented slipper cover

how is the chassis hack done? I understand the cutting, but how do you build the "vertical" sections back on the chassis???

Thanks
paul

Jeff told me how Jeremy did it, I'm going to do one later today and if I understood it correctly and execute it correctly
I'll post it up- , if I fail I won't

no matter what, it looks gorgeous

That looks to me thta it might be a new molded chassis. As far as the slipper cover, I can understand it. I have recently found that my V2 slipper can become very inconsistnt because of heat. The biggest problem is the glazing of the slipper plates (yes the aluminum pieces), and consiquently the pads . I have found that i have to replace them more often than I like in order to keep them consistent through an entire run. I have converted to the "High Torque" pads and vented plates, and this helps. But they still need to checked regularly. -Jeff