RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

A couple of months back i received a few rc cars from a co-worker who was cleaning out his attic. I found this awesome site after seeing one of the models was a old team associated truck. In posting to get help to identify the exacts of the RC10-T a few members help me see that one mis-mashed truck i had was rigged together with rc10 buggy parts. At first i was keen on stripping it down and selling the parts on ebay to fund my RC10-T rebuild but then looking at all the awesome gold pans that members have on this site i got hooked to build my own and bring what was left of the rc10 back to its true form. This thread will show my work in progress.

Here is the mess i started with


I ordered some JC racing wheels along with some Ebay shock towers and rear bulkhead which had both been cut to make the eyesore i recieved. Also purchased a nose and gold pan but much to my displeasure the shades of gold are way off. I did remember reading on here that the earlier A chassis were lighter but didnt realize it was that much.. I will be searching around to get a newer gold pan to match my nose but in the meantime i am going forward with this one.


The original parts where a shade of purple and the new ones i purchased are white so i decided to dye them all black. This was my first time dying any rc parts as i started in the sport around 2000 with my RS4 and everything was already black or carbon.
It turned out very well despite all the pressure my wife put on me with the threats of "i'll cut your balls off if you spill that on the counter" .... I wont be using the front a-arms because there where some andys arms in a parts box i received with the cars, I mixed one in with this picture cause i was checking the black match.


Going to start some assembly tonite, will be posting pics later on

Got some of the build together..ordered some rear shocks tonight, still got a bunch of parts i need to get a hold off...trans, motor plate, body mounts... I am definitely not liking the differences in the color of the pan and the nose piece gonna switch that out in due time..I would love to get some opinions on whether i should switch the pan or the nose. The pan matches the front shocks, i am curious to see what shade the rears will be. The rears i purchased are the newer top load kind...are they a newer shade of gold ? That would really get me crazy on the shades lol... Oh forgot to mention in my initial post i will be making this a runner to compete in local buggy races.

Looks good man! Where did the ball bearing steering bellcrank come from?

HDMM wrote:Looks good man! Where did the ball bearing steering bellcrank come from?

Sorry for the delayed response --- Its made by Houge

So being disappointed with the chassis color match along with the more important need for a stealth setup I recently picked up a roller from craigslist. It was in great shape and i wound up using the front top load shocks and the chassis along with the stealth trans assy. There is now not much left from the original car/truck but i still consider it spawning this project.

I will be selling the chassis that i purchased now minus trans and wheels.
Put it on Ebay starting @ $10 http://www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-TEAM-ASSOCIATED-RC10-RC-BUGGY-GOLD-PAN-CHASSIS-/110943471628?pt=Radio_Control_Vehicles&hash=item19d4bf080c#ht_500wt_1203

Is that a cat in the photo?

lol Yea, shes a little out of focus. She is supervising the build, when she is not swatting parts around the room.

Quick Update.
I found a NIP Race Prep axle setup in the box of parts my co worker gave me - I dont know anything about them, they look interesting...they have nylon ball ends and the axle ends are offset of each other where stock axles are the same on both sides
Does anyone know the benefits behind doing that ?




Here is my current progress ... got the trans and the rear suspension on..got a good deal on a B4 V1 slipper cluth setup, i know everyone seems to go with the updated verison but i couldnt pass up the price of 18 bucks on all new parts.

Ordered a 17.5 turnigy trackstar brushless setup
Still need
1 ball mount on the rear camber link
1 front shock upper mount sleeve
Tires (waiting to take a trip to the local tracks on race night and check the field)

Got an item i would like to get some input on...all my front links are off a spherical bearing type.
Is there a benefit to this over a ball cup type ?
One thing thats obvious to me is there is alot more hardware involve in may current setup which makes removal and re-install time slightly longer.

I think you are talkin about your captured turnbuckle ends. Only real advantage is they don't pop off as easy in a collision. Issues with that is that makes the next piece in line take the force that the cup would take. Honestly I'd rather replace ballcups vs. turnbuckles/steering knuckles/c-hubs/arms/bulkheads...you get the picture I think. Its just a personal preference though. I've ran them both ways and broke them both ways so its up to you what you like to do

Todd

"captured" ball ends dont pop off in a crash - Klavy beat me to it

Thanks for the info guys ... I agree I would prefer popping ball cups back on over passing the force onto the next part

Hey guys here is an update on my build.

Got the electronics squared away...
Turnigy 100A Trackstar sensored ESC
Turnigy Trackstar 17.5T sensored motor
The Turnigy combo cost me under a $100, i'll see how it works out
Traxxas TQI Reciever and Transmitter w/ iPOD Dock

I custom painted the JCracing wheels
I originally wanted to order black to make it easier but they where backordered at the time
The black is a Nighthawk Black Pearl which is a Honda/Acura color - Has a slight flake in it close up
The gold is a Valencia Mat which is a Ford/Mazda color - best match i could find
I work at a dealership so i got the paint from the body guys. They came ok after clearcoating them but i am sure they will get chipped up. Went with JCConcepts Barcodes front and rear.

I still havent completely solidified the front end. I replaced most of the captured buckles and threaded rod with rpm ball cups and some turnbuckles i found in my parts box. I have rebuilt the shocks but i think i have too much fluid in there on one side.
I do have a question about front ride height..I havent been about to find any specs on it. I am wondering at what height the nose should be and the angle of the a arms....any help would be great.

That looks sharp with the black on gold and I bet it will move with he brushless power in it!

Thank you, yea cant wait to get it on the track side by side with some modern buggies