RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

im looking on building a vintage rc10 and was wondering if they are as good as the newer buggy's ? me personally i prefer the older rc10's thanks for your input.

I have no experiance with the new cars. I have read that the vintage RC10 can compete with the new cars (I'm sure I read that somewhere on this forum). The catch is the nylon gets brittle over time and parts will break easier than they did when they were new. I just got my RC10 back out after 20 years and just playing around I have already broke 2 parts. I think I broke 1 part previous during it's life and I was much rougher on it back in the day. Supposedly boiling your nylon parts will bring some life back into them, I have done it, but haven't got the car back together to try the results. I'm sure some guys with more experiance about racing vintage will chime in. I personally thought about the getting into the new stuff, but everything on mine was working great so I just stayed with it. I did read that you will want to go to a brushless motor and lipo batteries to be compete.

There are guys here who are racing their cars after modernizing them. Read the 'what's old is new' thread on how to do this.

For me, I bought some RPM arms (still available new from tower or RPM), got some JC Racing wheels, new rubber and a Castle Mamba 5700 setup with a Gens Ace lipo and the A&L steering setup, with dubro ball links and the car is awesome. Oh and some threaded AE shocks too.

I would also recommend the RC Carbon Works front and rear towers as they will be stronger than your old fibreglass ones.

You'll be better with a B4.1 than you are with an RC10, but that doesn't mean you can't be better with an RC10 than some other racers are with a B4.1.

Phin wrote:You'll be better with a B4.1 than you are with an RC10, but that doesn't mean you can't be better with an RC10 than some other racers are with a B4.1.

Well put Phin.

And the addendum to this is that you if you find yourself much more interested, in practicing, in the challenge, etc, and put more time in, with a tub.. you go faster. A lot of guys run both, but an RC10 pilot that practices and tunes is going to be faster than a dusty 4.1 owner sitting on his couch watching espn.

If you do go with an older, I am thinking it needs to have a stealth trans to come closer to the newer cars.

You will need a stealth, but not necessarily all the work outlined in the old is new threads. There are people who run with almost stock setup and can make the B4s look slow.

If you do decide to go the old is new path, I would recommend you buy an RC10T to start with.

Good luck.

ED

thanks guys for all your replys. i am kinda new when talking about vintage rc's but i find them very cool. i was looking to build a 1984 rc10 goldpan with a brushless motor and a lipo battery. for this type of rc are the parts still available? like rpm tables, and the stealth transmission and every other part that could break?

if you want a car that has readily accessible parts, than an old rc10 is not for you. or any old car for that matter.

dan25 wrote:thanks guys for all your replys. i am kinda new when talking about vintage rc's but i find them very cool. i was looking to build a 1984 rc10 goldpan with a brushless motor and a lipo battery. for this type of rc are the parts still available? like rpm tables, and the stealth transmission and every other part that could break?

Running an RC10 with lipo/brushless is easy!
Just keep your eyes peeled on your local craigslist for a donor or parts car that can become your spares when needed. I've purchased parts rollers for $25-$75, depending on the condition.
Beware, I've often fallen in love with donor cars which then become projects of their own!

dan25 wrote:thanks guys for all your replys. i am kinda new when talking about vintage rc's but i find them very cool. i was looking to build a 1984 rc10 goldpan with a brushless motor and a lipo battery. for this type of rc are the parts still available? like rpm tables, and the stealth transmission and every other part that could break?

Some parts are available new but most are only available through eBay. You can upgrade to newer parts for some things but basics like chassis and tranny can only be bought from donor cars.

ok so probably its not a good idea for me then because i'm kinda hard on new cars. i'll probably look into buying a more recent one. i picked up a nice project tonight that i want to convert to electric and probably alot more solid to bash and alot more avaiable parts. the monster gt.

The vintage rc10's are racer cars. the new stuff is way more forgiving and easier to drive. But the fun factor is in the old cars by far