RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

The new local track is open and running....and I've been bitten by the racing bug, yet again. The street stock / bomber class is running 2wd buggy chassis, 13.5 motors, and coupe/legend type bodies.
I've decided to take the plunge and get myself updated since I'm about 20 years in the past. The car is in great shape, except for some minor details, but I've been aquiring all the running necessities. Here's the start. Updates as they happen.

Good luck with the racing...Looks like a nice car in the making...Is that a willys body ????

It's a Parma '41 Willys. I figured I would have enough fender well to trim for suspension clearance. Personally, I like 60's muscle cars, but I think they would drag too easily.

Some initial work on the suspension. I trimmed the inner mounts to align the axles by using the 2nd set of holes. Also rounded the arms and notched the chassis to improve suspension travel. The rear arms will hang straight down, instead of stopping against the chassis. I drilled new mounting holes 1/4" in from the original mount holes in the rear tower, as well.

The front arms are RPM, and all the ball links have been replaced with the Dubro screw-on type. So far, so good.

Parma made a 55 chevy short course body that looks very cool...I may get that one and try it for one of my builds...What body posts are thoses and are they still available ????

REMJ666 wrote:What body posts are thoses and are they still available ????

They're still current at Tower.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXUVY6&P=7

The front will line up with the shock mounts, but the rear may need a couple of holes drilled in the shock tower...I'm looking for an alternative to that.

Thanks for the link...I wouldn't want to drill more holes if i didn't either...That is the bad thing about older rc cars...Can't just piece it together gotta come up with solutions...

One good thing is that shock towers are a dime a dozen, so drilling may be the best bet. This car started as a simple restoration (except for the dye job), but since I've decided to race it, I started doing little things that I did in the 80's. I figure going in circles on dirt today is the same as it was back then.

Another update: Just ordered a Worlds bell crank, so the steering will get a bit of a makeover when it gets here.

Go fast and turn left is pretty much the same..There are no oval tracks around here anymore..Damn SC truck craze took over and everyone wanted to start making right turns also Can't wait to see it done..Gotta take some at the track pics and post also..Please post about what you decide for the rear posts..We need an RC10 Oval section in the Vintage area..

Russ Winn wrote:One good thing is that shock towers are a dime a dozen, so drilling may be the best bet. This car started as a simple restoration (except for the dye job), but since I've decided to race it, I started doing little things that I did in the 80's. I figure going in circles on dirt today is the same as it was back then.

Another update: Just ordered a Worlds bell crank, so the steering will get a bit of a makeover when it gets here.

Take a look at my worlds runner build the rear tower has multiple mount points..tower is RC Carbon Works....JohnnySr

Thanks for the heads up...Will definitely order both towers for my team car / roundy round build....Another question about the 6 gear...How many times can you pull the gear off the diff tube before you have to replace the diff tube ??? Or is it a one time thing...I have a team car in pieces and getting another cool gold pan today....Want to build the gold pan but the diff tube issue is what will most likey steer me toward the team car because of the stealth trans...And the fact that the parts to rebuild the stealth are a heck of alot easier to get...Sorry about all the questions

Looks good Russ. Makes me a little nervous!

Thanks for the tip Johnny. I'll have to check it out. Right now, I'm trying to figure out the worlds bell crank. I got 1 flanged bushing, and 3 non-flanged. There's some slop in it, vertically on the screws.

Rem, I'm not sure how many times you can get away with removing the diff tube. I've done it twice with no problems, but I won't chance any more than that, unless the bearing explodes. BTW, I decided to drill the shock tower for the mounts, since I re-drilled the upper shock mount holes anyway.

Thanks for the comment, Chris....You shouldn't be nervous. I never could drive worth a crap anyway.

OK...Worlds bell crank is in...I think there was supposed to be 2 flanged bushings, but a little creative washer placement fixed that.
The body mounts are in, and I'm getting the body painted up and mounted. I'm a little disappointed on the way it sits, but it wasn't designed to be a dirt track body. At least I have enough fender area to hack up, if it binds anywhere.

No work tomorrow, so I think I'll tackle the electronics tonight....weeeeee!

Looks like a fun project. Just watched your video. Pretty good quality for 1988!