RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

I think my collecting vintage cars finally bit me on the butt this time. I tore this Boomerang down completely this past Saturday and am now wondering what I am going to do with it...I still have no idea. It appears to be missing nearly everything and everything that is present is cracked. Nonetheless, I thought I would share it....

You could try epoxy if the cracks are small enough...

stickboy007 wrote:You could try epoxy if the cracks are small enough...

I think they are small enough. Many are split from being overtightened at some point.

everything and everything that is present is cracked.

yep thats why i gave up on tamiya.. if something on a tamiya is not cracked now just run it you will crack something. then if you dont crack something a bolt will come undone or you bust something small and you need to buy a $20 parts tree or part bag to get it. no thanks tamiya

It's a labor of love

I agree that Tamiyas can be a royal pain in the butt with the cheap ABS plastic they used on older models. I started with a Tamiya Striker and broke almost every part on that chassis. It helps if you replace the self-tapping screws with some proper hex head screws and don't overtighten them. Even still, their lower end models (and the Boomerang was one of them) cannot stand up to the beating that an RC10 can take. Then again, they're not meant for hardcore racing. The Boomerang is still a cool car, and is at least worthy of shelf princess (not quite queen) status.

I agree . Give him a nice body and treat him a quiet, harmless life on your shelf.

the nice thing about abs is that you can really repair it with glue---testors model glue for styrene and abs-melts it in oh so nicely. The metal tube I guess is kind of a red/orange now. It used to be orange and white.

While I agree in general about Tamiya's plastastic construction, it's equally as frustrating with aluminum-framed cars to have threads stripped out or parts bent. The one major advantage is that parts won't wear out or become brittle & stressed simply due to age.

Coelacanth wrote:While I agree in general about Tamiya's plastastic construction, it's equally as frustrating with aluminum-framed cars to have threads stripped out or parts bent. The one major advantage is that parts won't wear out or become brittle & stressed simply due to age.

all in all the key is new tech stuff . new plastic stuff is the best. even the first black plastic, msc, 2.2 wheeled stampede can take a better beating then all tamiyas. i love metal chassis rc10s but start getting 5 feet of air and nose dive. the chassis will be bent bad. ill do that all day with my b4 and its fine. just another reason why i dont understand why losi race stuff has a metal chassis.
back to the boomerang ,id glue it up get a body and stick to nice back yard driving

Just thinking about the parts list is daunting. I guess I will fix it up slowly. Hopefully, I will learn from this mistake.

If you're a proper Tamiyaphile, you'll never learn from this mistake

Had one of those moments not to long ago myself...Bought what i thought was a decent RC10 to only find out when it got here that it was garbage...Took it apart and what was salvageable was put in the parts box...

Only two years and a couple of months later I did something to this.

I tore this project down to ascertain what all is needed...a lot! So, I expect this to be a slow rebuild. It seems to be missing something off of every tree/block. When I tore the model down in reverse of the manual I found the gearbox joints (BA 18) were held in with "C" shaped clips that lock around the gearbox joints' groove. I bought a bearing kit for it back when I was working on it, which did not solve the binding issue. Not exactly sure if this is causing the binding when the gearbox screws are tightened, but I ordered some of the E-clips that the manual calls for hoping this will solve the rotation issue. We will see....

Here are the needs for this particular project:
1. Front tires;
2. Chassis cover;
3. Roll Cage;
4. Driver (Z Block);
5. Battery Door (D7)
6. Battery Door Pin (E6);
7. BD6 Antenna holder;
8. Dust cover (front servo);
9. Front Suspension upper A-arms;
10. Rear Suspension upper and lower A-arms;
11. Rear Motor guards (B2 B6);
12. 4mm E-ring circlips
13. Body

Looking at the list it appears that if I would like a decent runner I would be better off buying just that.

Here is the current state of the project:
1. Parts: http://postimg.org/image/4niuh3yyx/
2. More parts: http://postimg.org/image/jqzgn7pzf/
3. Did some polishing on the hardware: http://postimg.org/image/4ktiv8dwl/
4. Hardware after polishing: http://postimg.org/image/iijuke5hz/

.

I feel your pain. I got a Falcon in a package deal; it's a shelfer, never been run, just dusty. It sat for a while on a shelf, then I decided it needed to go to make room for something else. I started to strip it down to give it a proper clean and once-over before putting it on FeeBay, and I started finding little cracks in multiple places. <Sigh> So now it's in a box waiting for me to decide what to do with it. Nothing at all major wrong with it, I'm just too much of a perfectionist about it I guess. I might have to take the Airtronics gear out of it before it goes byebye though...