RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

I'm sure its been discussed here, and i tried searching for it, but didn't find what i was looking for.

As many of you know, I've recently become more active in my search for vintage AE stuff. So far, Ive got 3 6 gear gold tub RC10s, a Team car, RC10T, T2, GT and B4. I have talked to some people locally and have feelers out and one source referred me to a friend who has some old RC10s, and 10Ts. He has a TON of spares he is supposed to send me some pics. I'm curious to see what all he has.

More recently, I have seen the colored chassis' begin to appear as projects (most recent Cobalt and the Green RC10) and my question is: depending on the chassis' condition, would it be advantagous to have a chassis Powdercoated in a different color to change the appearance if it helps to hide some blemishes, and or if the chassis is scrapped up pretty bad?

I'll try and get pics soon, but a couple of the origonals I have are mint, so i'll probably not touch them. But one i have could use some touch-up. RC-Chick's Cobalt reminded me of my spare T2 chassis i have and the idea to change the color intrigues me.

If I do end up acquiring this lot of RC10s from this guy, he did say many of the chassis' have been "lightened" and or are used. Im still awaiting pics so i can inspect them and determine if its worth it. I have a friend who can powdercoat and I can get many different colors. Seeing that Pink, Blue, Yellow, Red and Green have been used, I am toying with using some other colors.

So here are my questions:
-Would the value of the RC10s decrease if the chassis' were powdercoated?
-Do people really care, if the build is good?
-Whats the best way to clean a chassis? Dishwasher? Soap and elbow grease?
-What determines collectability?
-Are NIP parts more valuable still in the package OR if its used in a build and combined?
-What makes a good build? matching parts? mis-matched? used vs un-used?
-Does it matter? are there purists and non alike?

I'm inspiried by many of the members on here and what they have managed to accumulate over time. I'm afraid of breaking the bank to go hog wild, but i would like to create some really nice rigs, both shelf queens OR otherwise.

Thanks for some input. Also, if topics like this HAVE been covered, or similar subjects discussed please help out a N00b and post links, cause im sure there are others out there who have similar questions.

*edit*
People speak of a chassis "stamp" How do i check or look for this? has anyone created a documented photo of the various types. Im unclear about what I am looking for.


MOmo

I have a theory on chassis condition, based on what I have.

If it's a rare chassis (for example a black 'B' with two sets of front battery cup holes as used on very early trucks and Team Cars) it's best to clean it up and refinish it with satin black paint or re-anodize (or leave it "as raced" if appropriate ie not completely hammered) rather than powdercoating. Gold chassis are still pretty much findable, although there are many variations. Again, refinishing and either re-anodizing or using a light coating of "fake" anodize paint is best for an oddball or rare chassis. I shudder to think how many early gold tub cars have a later gold chassis slapped under them... Best to know what you have to begin with.

If you look deep enough there are so many changes throughout production that it's very difficult to put a new tub on an older car and have it be "right".

This probably doesn't matter to 80% of the people out there, but I figured I'd throw it out...

My thoughts are match the parts with the appropriate chassis. Value is what ever the market will bear, but a properly preserved car is worth more to me than something shotgunned together out of new (and possibly incorrect) parts.

My $0.02...

I'm just about to put the purist pipe down after a few more puffs...

so there are more chassis types than the simple a/b/c in gold?
is there a post detailing the chassis changes over time?

aconsola wrote: is there a post detailing the chassis changes over time?

Not yet...

i figure if you really want to paint a old chassis, take the most scratched up used worst looking one and use it.
my .02 cents

I think my philosophy so far is a 180 from the purist....

take the beaten/scraped up chassis (hopefully not cut/drilled/lightened/hacked) smooth them out and shoot a coat of paint on them. Keep all your parts one color (white/white, black/black, dyed/dyed) and toss together a good looking car.

...:::close your ears purists:::...

NIP parts should be treated as any other NIP part for a current car, buy it, open it, put it on the car. If you dont run the car, why do you have NIP parts for it? They aren't gonna break on the shelf (well, earthquakes in Cali might tip the shelf over I guess). My jury is still out on NIP kits, build or not to build...

.NIP rant over.

I find more joy in returning a beaten car to a clean, usable state. I have one car I claim to be a "shelfer", but the chassis is a 5 footer. From 5 feet away, it is beautiful, any closer, the flaws are revealed, the queen is demoted to a mere peasant. But it satisfied my need for a super clean (by my standards) all correct & original car. I will eventually trim the body & mount the wing, leaving it all clear though.

See, I feel the same way. if a chassis has been modified and is really hacked, yet usable, it might be worth stripping and adding color to give it new life. (suggestions on the best way to strip the color off?)

Some of the cars in my collection have relly good chassis' so I can't see changing them. Im curious to see what ones might be coming to me, the current owner DID say they wer "lightened" as was the practice back in the day.


Im still confused about the "stamps" though. Are they actual "letters" on them? Is it a Design change? Is it color change? It it a year or edition?


MOmo